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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Huntingdon
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    Your Marlin shoots a straight-case cartridge - .38Spec or .357Mag. Get a Lee carbide full-length size and you'll never need case lube. I've been loading this calibre since I was still at school, and bought a carbide sizer die back around 1970 that I'm still using.

    For the .308Win - presuming that's what you mean? there are literally dozens of proprietary brands of case lube. I've been using Imperial sizing wax for all eight calibres that I reload here in UK, for literally dozens of years.

    From your question about powder [and no, you can't use the same powder for both] it sounds to me like you are a very noo noob to all this game, and deeply in need of a walking/talking mentor to come and show you the ropes. It's not a thing that you can just rush into blindly.

    Hopishly, somebody here will take that on. First of all though, spend some time on Youtube, at least getting the general idea behind it all, and buy yourself one of the many loading manuals. The different brands, Speer, Hornady, Nosler et al also produce handy DVDs of the how-to, but, as I wrote, you'll REALLY need a one-to-one session or few, or risk doing something from lack of knowledge that causes you serious grief.

    tac
    Last edited by tacfoley; 18-04-2017 at 01:29 PM.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
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    Bexhill on Sea
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    Agree with everything above - No, don't bother making your own lube. I've been using a small shoe polish size tin of Imperial wax for ten years or so - getting a case stuck in the sizing die could spoil your day.

    Carbide dies for straight walled cases is the (only) way to go, the Lee ones are excellent value and work very well.

    And yes, get some proper advise and do your homework well before you start loading. 50 grains of a pistol powder like Bullseye in a .308 case would be like a hand grenade going off just in front of your nose.

    Saying that - .38/357 is a good place to start, it's an easy cartridge to load for with plenty of powder/bullet choice.
    Time do some some reading and think about what you want to do with the finished rounds - this might influence the type of press you might need.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Hertford
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    1,532
    As stated above your straight walled 38/357 cases won't need lube in a carbide die.

    Making your own lube is easy and it smells a lot nicer than the bought stuff. For a few £s you can get a small bottle of Lanolin and the gallon of Isopropyl alcohol (make sure it is 99%+ and not one of the lower concentrations), all you need is a small pump spray bottle (look under your sink, I bet you'll have one in there somewhere) and you'll be good for many 1000's of rounds.

    And if the worst hap-pens you can always drink it and die happy but blind.
    Good deals with: Muskett, Dreben, roger.kerry, TALL, Helidave1, Chelseablue, Leeroy7031, Mousemann, pnuk, Practical, NEWFI, HOOGS, Webb22, lazybones1416 and deanw5262 among others. Thanks Guys.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    9,253
    I also suggest that you look up the page about a inch or so and have a read of the sticky that deals specifically with reloading - http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....ome-good-links

    It's ALL good stuff.

    tac

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Rayleigh
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    1,194
    Quote Originally Posted by tacfoley View Post
    I also suggest that you look up the page about a inch or so and have a read of the sticky that deals specifically with reloading - http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....ome-good-links

    It's ALL good stuff.

    tac
    One of the first things i did, they are very good but started to watch stuff on utube guess ive watched so, so, so much stuff im confused!!
    One Shot = One Kill

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