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Thread: BP Load Information

  1. #1
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    BP Load Information

    Has anybody tried this load in a ROA 25gn Swiss2 + 15gn Sainsbury's best semolina. Will I have a problem with this load.
    Anschutz 1913. .22lr - Big Nikko. TX200.177 Mk3 Ultimate
    Taurus 357 LBR. Taurus .22 LBR BSA .22 RF Martini International Mk3.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mac42 View Post
    Has anybody tried this load in a ROA 25gn Swiss2 + 15gn Sainsbury's best semolina. Will I have a problem with this load.
    i use 25 gns swiss and a wad in my remington 1858 with no issues.....plenty of smoke and fire lol but no probs.
    you cannot overload bp in the revolvers ( someone will say otherwise now lol)
    ruger old army is a strong action ....i also use .457 balls in mine too

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    Seems perfectly fine to me. As mentioned, provided you can ram the ball below the face of the cylinder, then there is no BP load that would be problematic in a revolver provided there is sufficient to get the ball out of the barrel.
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    ROA is a very strong gun. One of mine likes 30 grns of TS2 and the other prefers 20 grns. 25 grns Swiss is probably giving the same ish
    power as my 30 grns of TS2. As already said the Ruger can cope easily with what ever b/p you can handle yourself. For me any thing
    above 30 gets uncomfortable. Tim

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    Sorry for the silly question guys/girls

    Can I do the same (20 odd grains) of triple7 in my navy ams 44?

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    Quote Originally Posted by noodly View Post
    Sorry for the silly question guys/girls

    Can I do the same (20 odd grains) of triple7 in my navy ams 44?
    Yup.

    Tac

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    Quote Originally Posted by loiner1965 View Post
    i use 25 gns swiss and a wad in my remington 1858 with no issues.....plenty of smoke and fire lol but no probs.
    you cannot overload bp in the revolvers ( someone will say otherwise now lol)
    ruger old army is a strong action ....i also use .457 balls in mine too
    Thanks for the reply what size wad should I use in a ROA 25gn swiss 2 and wad
    Anschutz 1913. .22lr - Big Nikko. TX200.177 Mk3 Ultimate
    Taurus 357 LBR. Taurus .22 LBR BSA .22 RF Martini International Mk3.
    Marlin 357 original JM.

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    Wads as fillers are relatively expensive, but if you insist you should choose a wad nominal .454" * and thick enough that when the ball or bullet is seated with moderate to firm ramming pressure it sits just below the face of the cylinder - as far forwards as possible while allowing the cylinder to rotate. For a ball that would be quite a thick wad. Sainsbury's semolina is much cheaper as a filler and allows adjustment of the BP charge without needing to procure lots of different thickness wads.

    * (ROA is nominally .454" at the chamber mouth and a .457" ball gets shaved during ramming for a good fit - a .454 ball will also be OK but most find better accuracy with the .457 or even .460 ball)

    The need to also use lube is somewhat controversial. MLAIC and MLAGB rules mandate the use of some kind of grease over the ball/bullet, allegedly to reduce the chances of a chain fire. It's function in the prevention of chain fire is disputed by many. Note that nearly all bullets, both modern and those intended for use with nitro, have some provision for lubrication by the addition of one or more cannelures, and in BP rifles and nitro cartridges, this cannot be for the prevention of chain fire. Lube also has the effect of reducing friction between the barrel and projectile, and in BP guns greatly reduces the build up of fouling residue in the bore. A lubed wad might serve the latter two purposes, but does not satisfy MLAIC or MLAGB, however this might not be important to you. Various concoctions are in regular use as a lube, assorted brands and types of mineral grease, the hallowed beeswax and tallow mixture, and many others, or simply E45 cream. Lube for a wad probably needs to be relatively thin in consistency to allow some absorption into the wad and here the world is your oyster - many favour wintergreen oil but I don't use wads so have nothing to offer on this matter.
    True freedom includes the freedom to make mistakes or do foolish things and bear the consequences.
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    So many variables and personal choices. I use a 7cc scoop and semolina as a filler, just enough to bring the ball
    upto the neck of the chamber. I also smear wonderlube over the ball. Iv used water pump grease, tallow/beas wax
    mix and E45 in the past as well as no lube but always seam to return to Wonderlube. It keeps the fouling soft and
    aids cleaning no end especially as i may not clean my gun till the next day. I can shoot as many shots as i like and
    i never have a fouling problem even after prolonged use. Semolina is so cheep why would you spend good money on
    wads, also wads litter the range where as semolina just vanishes, plus it smells nice.:-) Tim

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim56 View Post
    So many variables and personal choices. I use a 7cc scoop and semolina as a filler, just enough to bring the ball
    upto the neck of the chamber. I also smear wonderlube over the ball. Iv used water pump grease, tallow/beas wax
    mix and E45 in the past as well as no lube but always seam to return to Wonderlube. It keeps the fouling soft and
    aids cleaning no end especially as i may not clean my gun till the next day. I can shoot as many shots as i like and
    i never have a fouling problem even after prolonged use. Semolina is so cheep why would you spend good money on
    wads, also wads litter the range where as semolina just vanishes, plus it smells nice.:-) Tim
    i use wads but i have loads of c o w so i will use that now.
    cleaning bp is a doddle.
    my martini henry i just clean by injecting steam via a trigger / wand as i have a portable steam tank which last for ages and really cleans everything from chamber to muzzle

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