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Thread: BSA spitfire help

  1. #1
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    BSA spitfire help

    Just started stripping a BSA Spitfire in .177

    How the heck do you get the rod out. both ends are unscrewed, just need to get the rod part out of the tube so i can replace seals. its like a sieve at the moment. I know it could have been sent off but at £100 for the service and the postage on top, it makes it rather more than the gun is worth.


    it would be good if there was a schematic drawings for it but i cant find one.

    any help would be very very much appreciated.

    thanks all

    Phil.

  2. #2
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    Hi Phil, I have never done one, but I believe you need to make up a special tool for one part of the operation. I speak to John Bowkett quite often (he designed the Spitfire) and he says you must use well fitting Teflon seal replacement. Other people who have done these themselves use different seals that stop the leak but you can get erratic f.p.s. when you start shooting after the rifle has been standing, and it takes a few shots to settle down.

    Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benelli B76 View Post
    Hi Phil, I have never done one, but I believe you need to make up a special tool for one part of the operation. I speak to John Bowkett quite often (he designed the Spitfire) and he says you must use well fitting Teflon seal replacement. Other people who have done these themselves use different seals that stop the leak but you can get erratic f.p.s. when you start shooting after the rifle has been standing, and it takes a few shots to settle down.

    Baz
    i have the full seal kit from chambers and there are the white orings in the kit so hope its covered. you need to work out how to get the two ends off the air tube, i have them unscrewed but i cat see how to take the long wire with brass ends out.

    even a drawing would help some what

    thanks for the info baz

  4. #4
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    The ends of the rod unscrew, they may be Loctited so you may need a little heat (be careful). The front end has an O ring and the valve head seal.
    BSA Super10 addict, other BSA's inc GoldstarSE, Original (Diana) Mod75's, Diana Mod5, HW80's, SAM 11K... All sorted!

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rancidtom View Post
    The ends of the rod unscrew, they may be Loctited so you may need a little heat (be careful). The front end has an O ring and the valve head seal.
    is it the end with the nut on it thats loctite on.

  6. #6
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    Both may have Loctite, depends who serviced the gun last.
    BSA Super10 addict, other BSA's inc GoldstarSE, Original (Diana) Mod75's, Diana Mod5, HW80's, SAM 11K... All sorted!

  7. #7
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    your ace rancidtom. thank you kindly sir. i knew there was loctite on one end but wasnt sure if there was a knack to it. all apart and now waiting for reassembly in the morning, best leave it over night to make sure all the parts are 100% after being in the ultrasonic cleaner.

    also mad a plastic dowel to sit in the back end to pull the one part out and lock the rod in place lightly so i can loc the nut and brass bit back in in the morning.

    one more question if i may. i can not, for love nore money, find where this tiny o'ring goes that was in the o'ring kit, its the smallest and thinnest. about 5mmx0.75mm. any ideas.


    thanks again

    Phil

  8. #8
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    I can't remember an O ring that size in the Spitfire to be honest, not sure! It's a while since I opened one of them up.
    BSA Super10 addict, other BSA's inc GoldstarSE, Original (Diana) Mod75's, Diana Mod5, HW80's, SAM 11K... All sorted!

  9. #9
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    Seem to remember there is a tiny O ring somewhere in the filling valve under the rifle ? Just another note, after you assemble it is very easy to get the power set correctly with the tiny allen screw in the back of the rifle before you put the stock back on.

    Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  10. #10
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    Thanks for the help gents. I have changed the small one in the fill valve but there is still one left, it's thinner than the one on the valve.

    I'll get back to it in a short while and hope I find one I missed


    Thanks again all


    Phil

  11. #11
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    oring

    hi there , is the oring in question for the fill indicator ? atb gc...

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by gc93 View Post
    hi there , is the oring in question for the fill indicator ? atb gc...

    that answers that one then. thank you kindly. there isnt a fill indicator on this one so that would be why i cant find it

    thanks kindly

    Phil

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by activeviii View Post
    that answers that one then. thank you kindly. there isnt a fill indicator on this one so that would be why i cant find it

    thanks kindly

    Phil
    Would like to know the results you get when it is finished. I have stripped virtually every make of PCP but never the Spitfire or the Firebird, have an immaculate Firebird at the moment with 3 quick change barrels including .25.

    Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  14. #14
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    found the leak, looks like i will have to fire up the lathe and modify things a little. its the only place in the whole rifle that has not seal other that spring pressure.

    on a side note, the grub screw on the back end to adjust the pressures, not had to do anything to it yet but looks like ill have to before it goes back to its owner. which way for less power, on the grub screw?


    thanks again

    Phil

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by activeviii View Post
    found the leak, looks like i will have to fire up the lathe and modify things a little. its the only place in the whole rifle that has not seal other that spring pressure.

    on a side note, the grub screw on the back end to adjust the pressures, not had to do anything to it yet but looks like ill have to before it goes back to its owner. which way for less power, on the grub screw?


    thanks again

    Phil
    Screw in for higher, out for lower.

    Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

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