This weekend I'm going to start refurbishing a few stocks:
- beech > 2 x Superten (MK1, 2), Spitfire
- walnut > Eliminator t/h, Heym .308 stutzen
I won't manage to work on all of them. But I'm looking forward to the process.
I've done my research, on this forum, other forums, youtube...

The process for the beech stocks will be:
- taking varnish off with paint stripper and an old bank card > already done, very easy and rewarding job
- sweating the old stain out, using a cotton cloth and the steam function on my iron (inspired by https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkIDm_2lN1c&t=352s)
- sanding, starting with 100 and working my way up to 220, good quality sanding paper (not glass). Not finer than 220 at this point in order for the dye to take well. Using a sanding block to get even pressure on the paper. And being careful not to round off sharp lines, or eg. the contours of the butt.
- dye, I've tried (bought...) several from my DIY shop, it's difficult to find the right one. With help of a forum member it will probably be an English chestnut dye. Water/solvent rather than oil based, because otherwise the CCL oil will mix with the dye oil. And dye rather than stain as stain can obscure the grain and can look like paint.
Applying the dye with a sponge or a cloth, in several thin layers, applied swiftly in long streaks, so that it doesn't dry whilst applying. Then you don't know which part hasn't had another layer yet. Parts that turn out darker can be lightened by sanding with fine paper or with steelwool grade 0000.
- wet sanding, grade 400 and then possibly 1000 paper. Dipping the paper in a water bowl, sanding, then drying the stock with a heat gun, then repeating the process with a finer paper if required.
- oiling; I have CCL conditioning oil. Applying it in a thin layer (a drop), letting it settle for 30min, then taking the excess oil off with a cloth and working the oil into the stock for a good half hour with my hands. 1 coat per 24 hours, 6 coats should give a nice finish, the more the shinier. Tru oil will give a very shiny finish unless sanded back. I don't like glossiness.
- Waxing.

This is the theory...

The process for the beech stocks will be almost the same as above, except that I will first have to sweat the old oils out of the wood, and I won't have to stain.
Sweating the oil out can be done by heating with a heatgun and then removing the oil that rises to the surface, with a cloth and some thinner. Better than sanding the top layer of the stock off. Also, it will be the only way to deal with the stippling on the t/h Eli stock; sanding will ruin it.
This will be a time consuming process, probably mostly on the Heym stock. The gun is about 30 years old and some parts of the stock are almost black with oil (and dirt) saturation.

To be continued...

Any insights/tips/warnings ("noooo, you've got it totally wrong mate, you amateur!") will be appreciated.
Also, if you know a great brand of dye that gives the rich brown/red colour on BSA stocks...

Some useful links:
http://riflesunlimited.co.uk/stock_refinishing
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FrQbZNduZL8. You've gotta love this all American gun guru, they way he smiles at the camera haha
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbgnvoJ1Nnc