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Thread: Refurbishing a few stocks

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  1. #1
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    plain tru oil on a beech stock https://www.dropbox.com/s/bxdjt33qkh...00707.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/bxdjt33qkh...00707.jpg?dl=0

    the dark bits on the chequering is the old varnish finish. the dark patches I assume is dye from the varnish but you could not see it when the stock was sanded and wetted.
    Last edited by bighit; 28-05-2017 at 09:22 PM.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by bighit View Post
    plain tru oil on a beech stock https://www.dropbox.com/s/bxdjt33qkh...00707.jpg?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/bxdjt33qkh...00707.jpg?dl=0

    the dark bits on the chequering is the old varnish finish. the dark patches I assume is dye from the varnish but you could not see it when the stock was sanded and wetted.
    Ouch!.. There's a few hours ye'll no get back!
    There's a reason beech is always lacquered and walnut is always oiled
    Donald

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisisdonald View Post
    Ouch!.. There's a few hours ye'll no get back!
    There's a reason beech is always lacquered and walnut is always oiled
    it only started to darken later. I will strip it and stain it a dark colour. going to do my hw99s one first.

    tempted to do it black

  4. #4
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    Tinted lacquer! If you stain beech, 9/10 it will have areas really dark and areas that won't take the stain at all.. best thing to do is strip it back, get the grain all looking nice and even and give it a nice thick coat of varnish!!
    It doesn't have to be cheap boring old varnish.. check these out:
    http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/tinted...uitar-lacquer/
    Donald

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisisdonald View Post
    Tinted lacquer! If you stain beech, 9/10 it will have areas really dark and areas that won't take the stain at all.. best thing to do is strip it back, get the grain all looking nice and even and give it a nice thick coat of varnish!!
    It doesn't have to be cheap boring old varnish.. check these out:
    http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/tinted...uitar-lacquer/
    good choice there cheers.

    the rifle in the pic is my .22lr. I did fancy a dark colour or a green.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisisdonald View Post
    Tinted lacquer! If you stain beech, 9/10 it will have areas really dark and areas that won't take the stain at all.. best thing to do is strip it back, get the grain all looking nice and even and give it a nice thick coat of varnish!!
    It doesn't have to be cheap boring old varnish.. check these out:
    http://www.rothkoandfrost.com/tinted...uitar-lacquer/
    That's a good tip. I haven't started dying yet. So perhaps I should go for tinted lacquer.
    The only thing I don't understand is that you write that 9/10 beech stocks don't take stain. Whereas almost all beech stocks are stained/dyed by the manufacturers right? And they always look pretty decent.
    Thanks, Louis

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by louisvanhovell View Post
    That's a good tip. I haven't started dying yet. So perhaps I should go for tinted lacquer.
    The only thing I don't understand is that you write that 9/10 beech stocks don't take stain. Whereas almost all beech stocks are stained/dyed by the manufacturers right? And they always look pretty decent.
    Thanks, Louis
    I dont think they stain/dye them. almost always varnished/lacquered as its cheaper and quicker.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by bighit View Post
    I dont think they stain/dye them. almost always varnished/lacquered as its cheaper and quicker.
    exactly... theres no denying that beech is cheaper and less attractive than walnut., and it doesnt respond as well to treatments that beautify harder woods.
    Manufacturers know this and use the best, most cost effective finish... a nice thick brown lacquer! Think of old Webleys and BSAs - I love that chestnutty brown of an 80s Webley!!

    in the video the OP posted, it shows the wood still having dye in it and the lad uses bleach to lighten it, I think whats happened here is he just hasnt removed all of the original varnish. If Im stripping a stock I just use a stanley blade and shave the varnish off right down to the wood - the benefits of doing it this way are many - theres no chemicals, you dont wet the wood and raise the grain, theres minimal sanding to prep for the new finish, its cleaner and I can do a full stock in about an hour... the only downsides are, its tricky to get into the nooks and crannies (I use good aluminium oxide paper for these), and you still have to use some stripper on any checkering.

    walnut rules!!!
    Donald

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