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Thread: Lightning breech seal.

  1. #1
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    Lightning breech seal.

    I had a look at the breech seal on my Lightning SE springer the other day and noticed a slight amount of what looks like chaffing so I simply popped it out and reversed it. All seems to be fine and dandy but I intend to replace it but on looking round there are two variations available, one is black like the original and the other is clear, with a purpose made slot supposedly to stop the seal "popping out", and also supposedly better?

    What does this slot actually do and can I use this one in lieu of the black one?

    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    I think you can use the superior HW breech seal in BSA barrels... I'd go for that!
    Donald

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by thisisdonald View Post
    I think you can use the superior HW breech seal in BSA barrels... I'd go for that!
    I didn't know that, thanks, I will look into it.

  4. #4
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    Yes 'HW' seals fit straight in and are far superior to the BSA items, the issue that you have is that the exit of the transfer port has a rough edge that needs removing or it'll just keep knicking the seal...

    Here's what I did;

    1) Make sure the safety is engaged...

    2) Break the barrel and with the butt of the rifle firmly wedged in your groin/between your legs or whatever you're comfortable with (whatever way you choose just make sure it's wedged firmly as you don't want the barrel to snap shut with yer fingers between the breach jaws, BIG no no that one) continue to grip the barrel firmly and hold the barrel in the broken position...

    3) Take some 1200grd wet'n'dry paper (before hand you need to make sure it's folded narrow enough to slide between the breach jaws) and some light machine oil and proceed to polish the exit of the 'transfer port' removing the burgh in the process, job done, no more knicks or slices in yer breach seal...
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by TORNADOS7 View Post
    Yes 'HW' seals fit straight in and are far superior to the BSA items, the issue that you have is that the exit of the transfer port has a rough edge that needs removing or it'll just keep knicking the seal...

    Here's what I did;

    1) Make sure the safety is engaged...

    2) Break the barrel and with the butt of the rifle firmly wedged in your groin/between your legs or whatever you're comfortable with (whatever way you choose just make sure it's wedged firmly as you don't want the barrel to snap shut with yer fingers between the breach jaws, BIG no no that one) continue to grip the barrel firmly and hold the barrel in the broken position...

    3) Take some 1200grd wet'n'dry paper (before hand you need to make sure it's folded narrow enough to slide between the breach jaws) and some light machine oil and proceed to polish the exit of the 'transfer port' removing the burgh in the process, job done, no more knicks or slices in yer breach seal...
    That's very helpfull too, I'll give it a go at the weekend when I change the stock bolts and it's all on the bench. I don't suppose you could guide me towards the correct HW seal by any chance, thanking you in anticipation.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Portzy View Post
    I had a look at the breech seal on my Lightning SE springer the other day and noticed a slight amount of what looks like chaffing so I simply popped it out and reversed it. All seems to be fine and dandy but I intend to replace it but on looking round there are two variations available, one is black like the original and the other is clear, with a purpose made slot supposedly to stop the seal "popping out", and also supposedly better?

    What does this slot actually do and can I use this one in lieu of the black one?

    Thanks.
    The clear seals with the slot in are designed to expand under pressure so hold themselves in place during firing, I can remember them as far back as BSA using synthetic breech seals - early 70's?, so they are probably the originals. I've replaced them with black seals in some recent guns, presumably the current model, there isn't any difference in performance I can see.
    I've an HW seal in a Supersport, it was a bit deeper than the BSA one so I had to cut it down by a few thou, if you do that you don't have to work on the transfer port, use the original as a model. They seem to be a bit thicker than the BSA one, just enough to make it a pain to get out again so it's best to get it right first time - good luck.

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