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Thread: Original Diana 35 - elastomer piston seal ? Better?

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benelli B76 View Post
    PTFE does not need explaining to the guns but to people. PTFE can be cut with a knife. It is usually white in colour and is malleable that is why it is used for flange seals etc because it adapts to shape. A lot of people look at a synthetic seal in an air rifle and call it PTFE when it is actually polyurethane because they do not know about polymers. You can use it for piston seals but it will not give a good seal eventually, that is why airgun manufacturers do not use it. I repair airguns every day and never see it except on old Webley pistols, and it is used on the capsule seal for the Tanfoglio Witness pistol which is why they need to be changed after squashing out of shape.

    Baz
    Fair comment Baz. But I'm just wondering why these seals have performed flawlessly over the years for me? Not just one or two but all of them with exception of those mentioned above and for I don't know how many cycles?
    Have I just been lucky then? Ive stripped a few to check and there has been nothing adverse noted?
    As I say the moment any give me trouble I will strip them out. But I don't see the need when they perform so well?
    Perhaps design also has something to do with it? I know my old mk 1 Vulcan uses a ptfe seal and is performing well after all these years.
    I have the luxury of two identical Diana's T01s (albeit different calibres) and will definitely go the oem seal route next time around and compare.
    Dave

  2. #17
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    I had a Webley Vulcan with the standard PTFE & buffer washer set up. I never changed it. It worked with good/ stable performsnce for something approaching 7/8 years until it was sold.
    When Dave says he's been running PTFE conversion set ups with good results for far longer than this I have no reason to doubt him.
    I am running the OE leather washers in 35/45/50 and will be sticking with these as they meet my expectations in terms of performance and reliability.

  3. #18
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    You can get a nice polyurethane washer and an adaptor from Vortek. They are not expensive and you just have to degrease and screw the adaptor on, then pop the seal on. How it may perform is up in the air, it should be more consistent and powerful but some people believe that guns set up to use leather washers may need narrower transfer ports to get the best efficiency. Polyurethane produces less friction in the cylinder bore and you may get a slight increase in swept volume, plus you can set up the lubrication so there is less combustion. With a wider port it may be a bit slammy. So, like any tuning mission it is a matter of getting the chronograph and a good selection of pellets out and see what happens ...

    I see you are in Venezuela. You could try ordering direct from the US or from Tony Burton in the UK.

    http://www.agrtuning.co.uk/about-agr-tuning.html

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnyone View Post
    Morning ignacio. I have fitted ptfe seals to two Diana 45s, one 50, one 50T01, two anschutz 335s, one HW35, and a BSF as I recall.
    I have been fortunate in that despite the seals being thinner height wise than the original leather seal they have still had clearance between the cocking lever rod and the piston body. This can easily be checked after the seal is fitted. A few millimetres clearance is needed when the piston is fully pushed home against the end of the compression tube. Should this not prove to be the case then the new head will need.packing between it and the piston body to create that required gap. I recall some have used large tap washers in the past but as I say it has proved unnecessary for me. I can't say it will be the same for your gun as I have no experience of working on a 35.
    Perhaps an email query to the seller of the synthetic seal may throw some light on things but even then I would still check the clearance as per the above after fitting?
    Wish you luck
    Dave
    Great help Dave, thanks.

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hsing-ee View Post
    You can get a nice polyurethane washer and an adaptor from Vortek. They are not expensive and you just have to degrease and screw the adaptor on, then pop the seal on. How it may perform is up in the air, it should be more consistent and powerful but some people believe that guns set up to use leather washers may need narrower transfer ports to get the best efficiency. Polyurethane produces less friction in the cylinder bore and you may get a slight increase in swept volume, plus you can set up the lubrication so there is less combustion. With a wider port it may be a bit slammy. So, like any tuning mission it is a matter of getting the chronograph and a good selection of pellets out and see what happens ...

    I see you are in Venezuela. You could try ordering direct from the US or from Tony Burton in the UK.

    http://www.agrtuning.co.uk/about-agr-tuning.html
    Thanks Hsing-ee.
    Do you have a link for ordering direct from the US?

  6. #21
    Hsing-ee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ignacio49 View Post
    Thanks Hsing-ee.
    Do you have a link for ordering direct from the US?
    http://vortekproducts.com/ourstore/Seals-Tuning-Parts


    You can order direct from Vortek in the US off this website.

  7. #22
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    Thank you Hsing-ee.

    Ignacio

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ignacio49 View Post
    Thank you Hsing-ee.

    Ignacio
    If you go ahead and change over mate let us know how you get along? It will be interesting. To me especially as I think leather has done its time for piston heads and synthetic is the route if you want consistent good performance. Not to say leather doesn't have it's place. I wouldn't dream if changing over on a highly valued collectable gun.
    But if you can squeeze a bit more from the gun and then perhaps reduce spring input I think that makes for less wear and a more comfortable firing cycle.
    Dave

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnyone View Post
    If you go ahead and change over mate let us know how you get along?....
    Dave
    I will Dave.

    Best regards
    Ignacio

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by jonnyone View Post
    Fair comment Baz. But I'm just wondering why these seals have performed flawlessly over the years for me? Not just one or two but all of them with exception of those mentioned above and for I don't know how many cycles?
    Have I just been lucky then? Ive stripped a few to check and there has been nothing adverse noted?
    As I say the moment any give me trouble I will strip them out. But I don't see the need when they perform so well?
    Perhaps design also has something to do with it? I know my old mk 1 Vulcan uses a ptfe seal and is performing well after all these years.
    I have the luxury of two identical Diana's T01s (albeit different calibres) and will definitely go the oem seal route next time around and compare.
    Dave
    Dave, where do you get these PTFE seals from ? The manufacturers do not supply them as they know it is the wrong material for the job. They have all been using polyurethane for years. Polyurethane and PTFE have totally different properties. If you put a piece of PTFE in a vice and squeeze it it will stay flat. Polyurethane will spring back to shape as it has a memory.

    Baz
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benelli B76 View Post
    Dave, where do you get these PTFE seals from ? The manufacturers do not supply them as they know it is the wrong material for the job. They have all been using polyurethane for years. Polyurethane and PTFE have totally different properties. If you put a piece of PTFE in a vice and squeeze it it will stay flat. Polyurethane will spring back to shape as it has a memory.

    Baz
    Evening Baz.
    I cant possibly reveal my secret source of ptfe . Though a quick google search would likely find it.
    I tend to use ptfe in my guns to shoot not clamp it in vices. An interesting hobby I'm sure but it's shooting all the way for me!
    Did you say you have tried and tested ptfe? Just wondering that's all.
    As I've said a few times on here now many of my guns I swapped to ptfe quite some years ago- earliest was about 86 if I recall right. They've not universally given good results but they have in many more cases than they haven't. And again I've made mention a few times that whilst conversion kits to use oem seals are more widely available now, they were not so back in the day. Hence in my case I've used the best available product at that time - ptfe.
    Maybe it would be good if you could share your own experiences (and downfalls) of using ptfe?
    I promise you the moment it all starts to go wrong for me n ptfe I will post here. Until then I'm afraid its been all good- which I can see presents a bit of a dilemma for some.
    Dave

  12. #27
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    Dave you are totally correct, I don't know what I am talking about.

    Baz
    Last edited by Benelli B76; 08-07-2017 at 08:53 PM.
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benelli B76 View Post
    Dave you are totally correct, I don't know what I am talking about.

    Baz
    Now now Baz you are likely to have forgotten more than I know about the subject. Especially as you machine the stuff whereas fate has made me a wood butcher (carpenter) by trade. I fully acknowledge that things have moved on from ptfe and there are superior materials available now. It hasn't always been so and this is why I've used ptfe in the past. What is confusing the heck.out of me is that in the majority of the guns its in it performs flawlessly. As such and taking account of my limited ability I've continued to use it.
    The guns it hasn't performed in are an old 35L, a BSF 55, and there is a model 50 that its acceptable in but nowt special. I've had good results in.most else and from memory Anschutz 335s have given good results.
    There are far more off the shelf conversion kits around these days and I certainly want to go this route for the future. As an example I'm currently using a vintage 82 Original 50T01 running on ptfe in .22 with good results. But in the near future I hope to swap over a .177 version from leather and I want to go the OEM seal route on this. The factory seals appear nice and flexible and more forgiving of irregularities in the cylinder whereas ptfe isn't for the reasons you set out hence my experience with the 35L and BSF.
    Do you have a view on Diana OEM seals and the materials used there?

  14. #29
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    Last of the Welsh PTFE maniacs? Everyone knows Dianas run best on leather (German- leder). At least mine do so do as I say, pal.
    Away and fashion a pair of PTFE socks or that if you want to do something useful with it... Second thoughts: don't bother- you're feet are out of round .

  15. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by Drew451 View Post
    Last of the Welsh PTFE maniacs? Everyone knows Dianas run best on leather (German- leder). At least mine do so do as I say, pal.
    Away and fashion a pair of PTFE socks or that if you want to do something useful with it... Second thoughts: don't bother- you're feet are out of round .
    I wondered when you would show up
    If it wasn't for the fact you Jocks wear nothing under those kilts I would have suggested ptfe Y fronts.

    By the way your secret leather fetish isn't so secret anymore.

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