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Thread: TX re finishing question.

  1. #1
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    TX re finishing question.

    Hi guys. I'm currently giving a mk2 TXSR a complete overhaul / refurb.
    I have stripped it completely (down to every last component)
    The last item was the trigger assembly. The rear of the trigger block (365SR) that is on show is quite marked / faded, obviously this cannot be re - blued as it is alluminium. Would it have originally been anodised?
    Has anybody else met with the same problem?
    Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    Not sure which part you refer to but think it's the cylinder end block/bit with the "shelf" that covers the gap due to the movement of the action - I always thought this was made of steel if so? If it is not, then mine must certainly be anodised, it definitely is not painted or that would have been obvious. My parts plan does not include a part 365SR, it's from Chambers' site.
    **WANTED**: WEBLEY PATRIOT MUZZLE END; Any Diana/Original mod.50 parts, especially OPEN SIGHTS

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by air-tech View Post
    Not sure which part you refer to but think it's the cylinder end block/bit with the "shelf" that covers the gap due to the movement of the action - I always thought this was made of steel if so? If it is not, then mine must certainly be anodised, it definitely is not painted or that would have been obvious. My parts plan does not include a part 365SR, it's from Chambers' site.

    The part number quoted is from the original manual and is SR parts only.
    Definitely ally - either that or my magnet has suddenly stopped working!!!

  4. #4
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    The small part which holds the 2 trigger adjustment screws is black. I think that bit slides, so it coulld show wear marks.

    The larger part which holds the trigger blade is a cast alloy (mine had oxidised a bit, so I polished it with Autosol)
    Keen but clueless..

  5. #5
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    Do you mean BK036 on chambers? https://www.gunspares.co.uk/products/24724/TX200SR/
    It looks like they have labelled it wrong ('cover plate screw' instead of 'cover plate'), as B1306 is also labelled the same, but the prices are different. If that is the correct part, then for £5 it is probably worth just getting a new one.

    I have been experimenting with laser cutting some new washer/shims from nylon (W085 and W086) as I can't find replacements for sale anywhere. They are untested as yet. I tried PTFE first, but they only lasted about 10 shots before deforming enough for the groups to open up. Let me know if you would like some of the nylon ones to try, as I now have about 30 pairs.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loki_79 View Post
    Do you mean BK036 on chambers? https://www.gunspares.co.uk/products/24724/TX200SR/
    It looks like they have labelled it wrong ('cover plate screw' instead of 'cover plate'), as B1306 is also labelled the same, but the prices are different. If that is the correct part, then for £5 it is probably worth just getting a new one.

    I have been experimenting with laser cutting some new washer/shims from nylon (W085 and W086) as I can't find replacements for sale anywhere. They are untested as yet. I tried PTFE first, but they only lasted about 10 shots before deforming enough for the groups to open up. Let me know if you would like some of the nylon ones to try, as I now have about 30 pairs.
    Hi Loki
    No, I have the right part number. Chambers just don't show it on there diagram. I think it was always an exchange unit direct to air arms. It's the rear trigger block - the block the cover plate screws to.
    Yes, could be in touch about shims - cheers.

  7. #7
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    The part is similar to the standard TX part except for the back end being cut away underneath and the small plate screwed on. Could you pick up a TX end plug and have it machined? Probably too much expense, but if you just have to have it.

  8. #8
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    Just discovered that the anti bear trap casing is also aluminium. You learn something new every day.

  9. #9
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    tx

    the back section is made from aluminium. to if its marked or scratched etc. you can strip the old anodizing by using a aluminium etcher like ac115 then have it re anodized. I had a tx in yesterday for re blacking and this had the same problem. if your not sure if its steel or aluminium put a magnet on it. if its aluminium it wont stick

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by charub View Post
    The part number quoted is from the original manual and is SR parts only.
    Definitely ally - either that or my magnet has suddenly stopped working!!!

    Thanks, I had kind of got the magnet thing earlier.
    I've found a good company to re anodise the mentioned parts and also the trigger guard. I thought I would get the trigger blade done whilst I'm at it as well.

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