Loctite virgin

[charub]

I have recently undertaken a complete stripdown renovation of a TX200 SR.
I have pretty much stripped it to every individual part, I have sent all external parts off for a traditional rust blueing and have been busily cleaning, deburing and polishing the life out of everything else. I have bought all perishables - o rings, piston seal, delrin washers, m5 aero tight nuts etc. Ready for when I reassemble.

I have absolutely no concerns about reassembly, as the TX is a breeze to work on. My question is relating to loctite. I have never applied it to anything I have worked on, I have had experience undoing it the past though.
So, where would you recommend the key areas are? I know the barrel retention nut definitely had some, but I'm not sure if the barrel itself needs it as it is located?
Which loctite should I use, I didn't realise there were so many.

I know it probably sounds like I'm a novice tinkerer, but I'm really not - I've just always relied on regular maintenance to keep loose nuts at bay.

Thanks in advance for your opinions.

[Peter Dunkley]

Your header made me laugh. Perhaps just my mind!!

[air-tech]

Blue for stuff you will eventually need to undo, red for stuff that is near-permanent, not completely impossible to undo but often heat will be needed, and anything that is not nut shaped may need to be secured so tightly to undo that it may be damaged superficially (or worse). Discretion better part of valour in the use of Loctite, if you don't need any, don't.

[stillair1]

Loctite 243 medium strength is the one I use. Do not use loctite 270, 2701 or studlock variants on anything you want to ever get apart.
I have also used a smidge of loctite 290 on steel pins that tended to drift (Hw45). This has a capillary creeping action and is medium high strength, again I would not use 290 where i needed to get it apart. The technical data is all there on the web.hth

[PhatMan]

charub,

I have found that in general, WRT air pistols & rifles, it is unlikely you will need anything stronger than Loctite 222 (Purple).

Chappies often use the 240 series (blue) as the first port of call, but over the years, I have found 222 to be all that is needed.

Some screws/bolts (e.g. front trigger screw/bolt) on the TX200), should have no thread-locker on them at all.

I have found this through bitter experience - I used 242 on that screw on the TX200, and the next time I tried to remove it, it unscrewed the main action screw holding the trigger block and spring - that was not fun

Have fun

Best regards

Russ

[harvey_s]

Loctite 243 medium strength is the one I use. Do not use loctite 270, 2701 or studlock variants on anything you want to ever get apart.
I have also used a smidge of loctite 290 on steel pins that tended to drift (Hw45). This has a capillary creeping action and is medium high strength, again I would not use 290 where i needed to get it apart. The technical data is all there on the web.hth

This.../\

Green studlock is also semi-permanent.
Fantastic products when used as per the instructions...simple enough stuff, but the selection is formidable - do your homework and you'll not go far wrong though.
242 & 243 will cover most threadlocking jobs and can be disassembled with normal hand tools.

[StellaArtois Sr]

I use the blue Loctite which holds brilliantly and does need more pressure to undo but not enough to cause you problems. The one I use is in a lipstick type of container so it's small and I keep it in my shooting toolbox. As for which bolts to glue, I personally glue only the bolts that have given me problems, like when they have worked loose or in the case of my HW80 when they fell out. I have used it many times and never had a problem with the bolts after wards. I know of some people using it on there scope bolts, not yet tried that personally.

[kamyonsofor]

Yes I agree with Peter D,anyway Loctite ,how good is it well in the '70's yes an'old man a friend of mine was very competitive racing go karts , he is/was a highly skilled motor technician and used Loctite when he cut and shaped pistons for his engines and I mean cut pieces out of the piston rework it and glue it back together with Loctite and won a good few races that's Loctite.

[BigEars]

I've only used it where I've had problems with unwanted slackening. The notorious screw on the Prosport Cocking lever for example. I use the blue version for that, works well & not too hard to undo,

[Jezzer]

This.../\

Green studlock is also semi-permanent.
Fantastic products when used as per the instructions...simple enough stuff, but the selection is formidable - do your homework and you'll not go far wrong though.
242 & 243 will cover most threadlocking jobs and can be disassembled with normal hand tools.

Sorry but green Loctites are permanent/high strength. In all my years of using Loctite I've never come across a green Loctite that's
semi-permanent. On parts I've assembled that never need taking apart, green is always used, 270, 601, 638, 648, 290, 2701.
Rule of thumb is,
Red/pink are low strength.
Blues are medium strength.
Greens are permanent/high strength.

[charub]

Thanks for all the answers guys. I think from the info provided I will only use the purple sparingly.
At the moment i can only think of two locations to use it - the screw in transfer port at the end of the compression chamber and the barrel. The rest will just be picked up / tightened up during general maintainance.

[Shed tuner]

pedantically, the transfer port is push fit into the compression tube end nut; not the comp tube end nut itself, weak loctite is good and it will also fill the voids.

I'd go with medium on the barrel and nut though, and weak on the muzzle weight threads and the grub screw.

nothing else needs loctite on a TX/SR.

great guns, enjoy it

[charub]

pedantically, the transfer port is push fit into the compression tube end nut; not the comp tube end nut itself, weak loctite is good and it will also fill the voids.

I'd go with medium on the barrel and nut though, and weak on the muzzle weight threads and the grub screw.

nothing else needs loctite on a TX/SR.

great guns, enjoy it

Thanks, that's kind of what I meant (easiest way to describe my intentions) out of interest, how would you go about applying the loctite to a recently blued barrel without making a bad mess?
Cheers.

[Shed tuner]

Thanks, that's kind of what I meant (easiest way to describe my intentions) out of interest, how would you go about applying the loctite to a recently blued barrel without making a bad mess?
Cheers.

it only goes on the bit inside the front of the action, so no-one is going to see it... I normaly put a fews drops at the front and rear of the barrel housing section of the action, and then a drop on the threads of breech section before installing the nut. Fit the muzzle weight, ensuring you have it screwed on the right number of threads for a medium (not too tight or too loose as either destroy accuracy) underver lockup. You may need to rotate the barrel slightly to index, as the perfect muzzle weight screw-in distance might end up not being vertically in line with the underlever. Then nip everything up and let the loctite go off.

[harvey_s]

Sorry but green Loctites are permanent/high strength. In all my years of using Loctite I've never come across a green Loctite that's
semi-permanent. On parts I've assembled that never need taking apart, green is always used, 270, 601, 638, 648, 290, 2701.
Rule of thumb is,
Red/pink are low strength.
Blues are medium strength.
Greens are permanent/high strength.

No Loctites are permanent, there is no fusion of materials and heat (300°c) will destroy the bond (hence semi-permanent).

As for another post re. gluing pistons together with the stuff - that's pure fantasy