Can I go shorter??

[bullbarrel]

I'm using the Lee Pacesetter dies but only the deprimer/sizer then the bullet seater, not the crimping die

Ok, it was the lee neck resizer I was wondering about, but the pacesetter uses a full length resizer. I wouldn't use the crimp die unless you have a bullet with a cannelure in it. But thats just me.

Fingers crossed the next batch will start to reduce the group size.

[phil384]

Ok, it was the lee neck resizer I was wondering about, but the pacesetter uses a full length resizer. I wouldn't use the crimp die unless you have a bullet with a cannelure in it. But thats just me.

Fingers crossed the next batch will start to reduce the group size.

Yep full length resizing and I was advised against crimping, in fact I'm pretty sure the reloading manual says its not for my type of bullet too.

[kennyc]

Yep full length resizing and I was advised against crimping, in fact I'm pretty sure the reloading manual says its not for my type of bullet too.

the Lee FCD crimping die doesn't require a cannelure you can use it on any bullet.there is no need to go full-hulk on it a light crimp will achieve the purpose -a consistent neck tension. If you have perfect brass you probably don't need it however it ain't going to hurt to use it and it should help.
It always amazes me that folk put forward neck turning as a worthwhile operation whilst ignoring the much simpler FCD die that is supplied with a lot of Lee kits.
I guess it's too simple and also made by Lee so for some that's 2 strikes and out

[weebeestie]

I'v had 2 Howas (.308) and both had the same accuracy problems after cleaning.
After cleaning fire 4 or5 of the crappy PPU to foul barrel, wait till cool then try test strings.
After about 20 shots give it a pull through then fouling shots before another test string.
Worked for me.

[kennyc]

I'v had 2 Howas (.308) and both had the same accuracy problems after cleaning.
After cleaning fire 4 or5 of the crappy PPU to foul barrel, wait till cool then try test strings.
After about 20 shots give it a pull through then fouling shots before another test string.
Worked for me.

I also have 2 .308 Howas, can't say I am obsessive about cleaning them

[Parabuteo]

Ok, it was the lee neck resizer I was wondering about, but the pacesetter uses a full length resizer. I wouldn't use the crimp die unless you have a bullet with a cannelure in it. But thats just me.

Fingers crossed the next batch will start to reduce the group size.

Not required, it creates its own which is the point of it. IF you load to a cannelure you are stuck with a set OAL. Decent bullets dont usually have them, Sierra only produced a 77 SMK with one for the Mod 262 loads as they get used in semi automatics/automatics.

One of the problems with neck turning is that as the brass flows forward, you lose the effect. It really only has any effect on very tight necked rifles because you can now chamber what could not be chambered.

Seriously whether you crimp is up to you but so far I have not come across anyone who has tried it without positive results. I do it for the following reasons.

1. It has improved consistency on all of my full bore rifles service rifles and my M67

2. It has produced good results with a much longer jump than many would think ideal in my M67 Kongsberg (It has a very generous free bore anyway and loading to near the landes makes mag loading perilous...)

3. If you think I am neck turning batches of 100 cases you can sod off

Bear in mind that with service mag fed rifles you cant mess about with the COALs much if at all. I tend to grab a live round and copy that OAL then mess with the load until it works.

If you have tried everything then get a gun plumber who knows what he is doing (there are a few) to use a bore scope and look at the first few inches of the barrel. I am just about to have my AR re barrelled after 6.5k as it is no longer holding anything like what I would want. Comment was that there is a lot of erosion which does not surprise me.

Sometimes some barrels are just bad, harsh but true.

Also make sure that your full size die is set up correctly. The further you push the brass back the harder you work the brass but also the more movement it gets. This can lead to inaccuracies and case head separation in short order.

In last years Imperial I had changed Dies and thought it was right, but I was getting separated cases after 3 firings...in an AR FFS. So I checked out my rounds in a Dillon headspace gauge and it was well under, so the case was being worked to hell. I re-set at bolt action and have had smooth operation and no separations since.

I never really understand the obsession with FL Re-sizing. I only FL resize for the AR just in case heat causes some issues (they get bloody hot even on straight pull with some practices and you cannot risk a bad feed in a rapid shoot). Neck sizing reduces the work hardening on your brass. I never did it when shooting F class and never do it for my No4 or M67, yet the rounds are perfectly accurate.

Keep it simple, keep it consistent, then when it comes to fault finding its easier to de-bug.

[phil384]

Thanks for all your inputs guys, I'm currently re-reading my Lee loading manual.

It doesn't list N150 for a 75 grain jacketed bullet but does for a 77 grain so I'm using the load data for that.

I'm also looking at the sizing section at the front of the manual......