custom stock cs500 oiling

[max headroom]

Bisley. great oil for a rubbed down stock. might take a week.

[18 Wheeler]

...WHY do we store our shotguns muzzle down?

So they are pointing at the Aussies.

[max headroom]

So they are pointing at the Aussies.

Bggr i missed and got NZ. must try harder.

[bighit]

Lots of opinions there.

BUT just a thought for those using none drying oils which penetrate deeply into the wood.

WHY do we store our shotguns muzzle down?

Stop oil getting into the wood. But not all oils damage the wood.

[bighit]

Custom stock made most of the Theoben stocks and they were lacquered on request of the company, that was what gave that horrible orange finish. I have come accross some that were oil finished.

Custom stock now use Danish oil. The trick with applying Danish oil is a number of thin coats ensuring you wipe off any excess. I've used a number of different oils, CCL, boiled linseed, tung, walnut oil and Danish is as good as any, dries nicely and bring grain detail out.

My evolution is not orange . Could it be because it's beech
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o2fsaamnce...40718.png?dl=0

[sandyman1963]

When I bought CS stock for my MK4 I was slightly miffed at the finish no issue with the workman ship just the finish.

I sent it to a chap who was in his younger days a cabinet maker who striped it right down and re-oiled it and there was a marked diferanc. Sadly for me he passed away a few months ago half way through one of my Regal Stocks.

I use boiled linseed oil a single clad twice a year keeps them in tip top condition.

[Blackmax]

My evolution is not orange . Could it be because it's beech
https://www.dropbox.com/s/o2fsaamnce...40718.png?dl=0

Possibly, some Evo's had beech stocks instead of walnut. I have a feeling the stock's turned an orangey as the lacquer aged giving them that colour with the walnut base. I've refinished two of mine to get rid of the lacquer and they look a lot better.

As for Danish oil it doesn't contain varnish nor is it a varnish, most contain a blend of oils, tung and boiled, driers such as natural turps and resins.

[bighit]

Why is it called ‘Danish’ Oil?

Historically the term Danish Oil seems to have appeared when Scandinavian furniture, protected with an attractive low sheen finish, began to be exported around the world during the second half of the 20th Century.

In America there are a number of manufacturers of ‘Danish Oil’ and each product has widely varying ingredients. They are comprised of many different combinations of natural and synthetic varnish and resins, mineral oil, tung oil, linseed oil, poppy oil, cotton oil, sunflower oil, white spirit, naptha, driers, anti-skin agents, etc etc! The actual non-evaporating ‘solids’ content of these products can be as low as 10%

We are based in the UK, and when we began manufacturing our own oil products for wood we decided to find out for ourselves what was available here as as Danish Oil. Generally in the UK we found that Danish Oil usually has a low sheen finish, with a drying time of 4-8 hours per coat. UK products are mainly Tung and/or Linseed oil based, although some use only vegetable oils and synthetic varnishes. Solids content of the best known brands is usually around 30-40%. We haven’t found any products (except ours) with 50% or more solids.
http://danish-oil.com/

They don't use varnish in their 's but others do.

Their shop here. http://tungoil.co.uk/shop/danish-oil-250ml/

[thomas9784]

Why is it called ‘Danish’ Oil?

Historically the term Danish Oil seems to have appeared when Scandinavian furniture, protected with an attractive low sheen finish, began to be exported around the world during the second half of the 20th Century.

In America there are a number of manufacturers of ‘Danish Oil’ and each product has widely varying ingredients. They are comprised of many different combinations of natural and synthetic varnish and resins, mineral oil, tung oil, linseed oil, poppy oil, cotton oil, sunflower oil, white spirit, naptha, driers, anti-skin agents, etc etc! The actual non-evaporating ‘solids’ content of these products can be as low as 10%

We are based in the UK, and when we began manufacturing our own oil products for wood we decided to find out for ourselves what was available here as as Danish Oil. Generally in the UK we found that Danish Oil usually has a low sheen finish, with a drying time of 4-8 hours per coat. UK products are mainly Tung and/or Linseed oil based, although some use only vegetable oils and synthetic varnishes. Solids content of the best known brands is usually around 30-40%. We haven’t found any products (except ours) with 50% or more solids.
http://danish-oil.com/

They don't use varnish in their 's but others do.

Their shop here. http://tungoil.co.uk/shop/danish-oil-250ml/

Currently selling on evilbay, saw it earlier and seamed very reasonably priced.

[bighit]

Currently selling on evilbay, saw it earlier and seamed very reasonably priced.

If I ever get the tru oil off my .22lr I may try it.

[Peter Dunkley]

So they are pointing at the Aussies.

I see you still have your sense of humour!

[Mark A]

Why is it called ‘Danish’ Oil?


They don't use varnish in their 's but others do.

Their shop here. http://tungoil.co.uk/shop/danish-oil-250ml/

Yep, I was going to post the same. Most Danish oils are more of an oil based wipe on varnish that will create a surface film, which you don't really want if you're after an oil finish look.

I have used the bestwood oil and can confirm it is good stuff. You can actually smell the tung oil and not just the resins etc in the likes of Rustins.

I used tru oil on my last stock and that actually came out very nice. I wet sanded the first coat to fill the grain, then put a good few coats on and used the conditioning cream stuff to get a satin finish rather than gloss, then a coat of wax and it looks great. Although tru oil is another surface finish, its at least very hard compared to 'danish' oil, so will hold up much better.

[18 Wheeler]

...As for Danish oil it doesn't contain varnish nor is it a varnish, most contain a blend of oils, tung and boiled, driers such as natural turps and resins.

...They don't use varnish in their 's but others do.

So what is varnish? Generally accepted as a blend of:
-a drying oil
-solvent, and
-solids (usually resin synthetic/organic) ...which "dries" by curing.

The linked product is:
-Tung Oil (a drying oil)
-Naphtha HH (solvent), and a
-metallic drying agent (Cobalt(II) ethylhexanoate)... which "dries" by curing.

Yes the proportions are variable, and quality varies between Danish Oils, but it's still a wiping varnish. An excellent, serviceable finish for a gun to be used in the field. It's what I use for the inletting in my rifles before I oil finish the outside.

[Mark A]

The Bestwood oil doesn't contain resin afaik, which is what makes it an oil rather than a varnish.

[bighit]

So what is varnish? Generally accepted as a blend of:
-a drying oil
-solvent, and
-solids (usually resin synthetic/organic) ...which "dries" by curing.

The linked product is:
-Tung Oil (a drying oil)
-Naphtha HH (solvent), and a
-metallic drying agent (Cobalt(II) ethylhexanoate)... which "dries" by curing.

Yes the proportions are variable, and quality varies between Danish Oils, but it's still a wiping varnish. An excellent, serviceable finish for a gun to be used in the field. It's what I use for the inletting in my rifles before I oil finish the outside.

email and ask them. They make it not me.

There is others that claim they don't use varnish.

This is what they say.

Where to use

Danish Oil can be used on almost any wooden surface, including interior and exterior furniture, doors, window frames, cladding, hardwood floors, skirting boards, gates, children’s play areas, kitchen worktops, turned wood, musical instruments and food preparation areas etc.

Bestwood Danish Oil is naturally water, food and alcohol resistant. It is safe for food contact when dry and can be used for wooden bowls, chopping boards and butchers blocks. It is certified EN71 toy safe. We do not use any synthetic or modified resins or varnish in our Danish Oil.

Danish Oil is simple to use and easy to maintain. Re-application of one or two thin coats every year will keep wood looking naturally ‘fresh’. Damaged or scratched areas can easily be maintained by reapplication of BestwoodDanish Oil.

Bestwood Danish Oil is suitable for use with all softwood and hardwood, including exterior oak and teak.