custom stock cs500 oiling

[DSidelever]

then, like Moley, I would suggest coats of plain Walnut Oil - this gives water resistance without a shiny/gloss finish.

Danish is basically a Shellac type finish - a semi gloss, fragile shell that doesn't penetrate the wood. (& chips off quickly)

If you do want Glossy - go with a Polyurethane rather than a Varnish.



Dont forget the inletting area !

[Telephonepete]

I'm going with danish oil then, Ill be honest I've never done it before so I want to get the best finish I can.

dont let it dry rub it off straight away, straight away. hang up for half an hour and repeat. you can do as many coats as you can manage in a day.polish the stock as much as you like when you remove the oil. hang up and as i say repeat. on a wet weekend you can just about finish it. i would use at least 15 coats of oil. .20 would be better. this will give you a lovely sheen not a high gloss. pete

[Blackrider]

You'll laugh but I use Ballistol on all my stocks, CS or otherwise.

[Peter Dunkley]

Pete does it my way.
I asked at Custom Stocks when I picked up my stock and they said Danish.

I use it the same way as Pete. I only use Rustins. Put lots and lots on. rub well in with hands and before it starts to go off wipe it all off with long strokes and a none fluffy cloth in direction of grain.
I leave mine 24 hours before recoat. Number of coats decides height of gloss. Four or five gives high gloss which can be taken down a bit with a light rub with four noughts wire wool.
Gives a nice strong good wearing finish which is easily touched up. Another sloppy coat and wipe off.

For the folk on this forum who insist their way is the only way. the above is only the way I do it, there are many other ways.

When I asked the finishers at Holland and Holland they said they use a secret brew but it was specialist oils with driers.

[Phil Russell]

Interesting comments about Danish oil. All I can say is that I refinished a HW97 stock with it a few years ago, producing a high gloss. Despite much use for HFT in all weathers it remains as good as new .. no chips or flakes at all. I have also done several other stocks that have not had the use of the 97 stock and all still have the deep gloss.
Maybe there are different types of Danish oil?
Cheers, Phil

[Craigjohnmaz]

You'll laugh but I use Ballistol on all my stocks, CS or otherwise.

Same here on both my cs500's and it works great

[18 Wheeler]

To the OP. Firstly fettle the inletting before doing any stock finishing. I like the CS stocks but they all benefit from some sanding to get them to fit your action properly.

Danish oil is a type of wiping varnish. So not really a true oil finish, it's a mix of oil, thinners and varnish. It doesn't penetrate very far, but produces a durable finish with minimal effort, you can do a "coat" in about 10 minutes and repeat once a day until you're happy with it. Then leave for at least a week to fully harden. The end result doesn't have the feel of a true oil finish, unsurprisingly it feels like what it is... a variation on varnish.
You can cheat a bit and once the DO is hardened, lightly rub with synthetic wire wool, 2000+ grit paper is better, and then use a clear wax on top.

A proper oil finish will enhance the grain significantly more, but requires much more effort. Maybe 15 hours work to get a good result, again needs leaving once done, a month is about right.

As for supermarket oil being a drying oil, or any other for that matter, there's an easy way to check. Put a couple of drops on an impermeable surface, glass is perfect. Leave it overnight, if it's still gelatinous the next day then it's not a drying oil, if it's become plastic like then it is.

CS500 oil finish.

[Telephonepete]

To the OP. Firstly fettle the inletting before doing any stock finishing. I like the CS stocks but they all benefit from some sanding to get them to fit your action properly.

Danish oil is a type of wiping varnish. So not really a true oil finish, it's a mix of oil, thinners and varnish. It doesn't penetrate very far, but produces a durable finish with minimal effort, you can do a "coat" in about 10 minutes and repeat once a day until you're happy with it. Then leave for at least a week to fully harden. The end result doesn't have the feel of a true oil finish, unsurprisingly it feels like what it is... a variation on varnish.
You can cheat a bit and once the DO is hardened, lightly rub with synthetic wire wool, 2000+ grit paper is better, and then use a clear wax on top.

A proper oil finish will enhance the grain significantly more, but requires much more effort. Maybe 15 hours work to get a good result, again needs leaving once done, a month is about right.

As for supermarket oil being a drying oil, or any other for that matter, there's an easy way to check. Put a couple of drops on an impermeable surface, glass is perfect. Leave it overnight, if it's still gelatinous the next day then it's not a drying oil, if it's become plastic like then it is.

CS500 oil finish.

no offence but i dont agree with this. the finish i get is a lovely sheen which is just slightly higher around exposed end grain pistol grip etc. it is what custom stocks use and looks exactly like an oiled finish and is an oiled finish as i understand it. i have no time for hi gloss finishes i would be afraid to use the gun for fear of scratching them. i wish i knew how to put pics up on here but i do not. there are however plenty on at the other place. regards pete.

[PhatMan]

Thomas,

When I ordered the CS800 stock for my TX, I asked CustomStock not to apply any finish/varnish to the stock - just give give it a light coat of boiled linseed oil, and that is it.

I could then oil finish the stock in my usual way.

The CS800 arrived with me exactly as requested.

Have fun & a good Sunday,

Best regards

Russ

[Riffler]

I use Phillips English Walnut Wood preparation.
Pick a sunny day and lay out your rifle to warm up the stock.
A few drops go a long way and the matt finish is superb.

[Blackmax]

Custom stock made most of the Theoben stocks and they were lacquered on request of the company, that was what gave that horrible orange finish. I have come accross some that were oil finished.

Custom stock now use Danish oil. The trick with applying Danish oil is a number of thin coats ensuring you wipe off any excess. I've used a number of different oils, CCL, boiled linseed, tung, walnut oil and Danish is as good as any, dries nicely and bring grain detail out.

[Peter Dunkley]

Lots of opinions there.

BUT just a thought for those using none drying oils which penetrate deeply into the wood.

WHY do we store our shotguns muzzle down?

[thomas9784]

Pete does it my way.
I asked at Custom Stocks when I picked up my stock and they said Danish.

I use it the same way as Pete. I only use Rustins. Put lots and lots on. rub well in with hands and before it starts to go off wipe it all off with long strokes and a none fluffy cloth in direction of grain.
I leave mine 24 hours before recoat. Number of coats decides height of gloss. Four or five gives high gloss which can be taken down a bit with a light rub with four noughts wire wool.
Gives a nice strong good wearing finish which is easily touched up. Another sloppy coat and wipe off.

For the folk on this forum who insist their way is the only way. the above is only the way I do it, there are many other ways.

When I asked the finishers at Holland and Holland they said they use a secret brew but it was specialist oils with driers.

Im going to do this, I actually like that semi satin finish.

[thomas9784]

So if the stock is all ready treated with danish oil which is a blend of linseed or tung etc with varnish then actually oiling it is pointless as it wouldn't penetrate properly. Ill just stick with what was put on there then.

[RichardH]

Danish oil is a type of wiping varnish. So not really a true oil finish, it's a mix of oil, thinners and varnish. It doesn't penetrate very far, but produces a durable finish with minimal effort, you can do a "coat" in about 10 minutes and repeat once a day until you're happy with it. Then leave for at least a week to fully harden. The end result doesn't have the feel of a true oil finish, unsurprisingly it feels like what it is... a variation on varnish.
You can cheat a bit and once the DO is hardened, lightly rub with synthetic wire wool, 2000+ grit paper is better, and then use a clear wax on top.

A proper oil finish will enhance the grain significantly more, but requires much more effort. Maybe 15 hours work to get a good result, again needs leaving once done, a month is about right.

As for supermarket oil being a drying oil, or any other for that matter, there's an easy way to check. Put a couple of drops on an impermeable surface, glass is perfect. Leave it overnight, if it's still gelatinous the next day then it's not a drying oil, if it's become plastic like then it is.

CS500 oil finish.

This.

Danish oil IS Varnish