fit a trigger shoe.the sears can be polished to get rid of any creep.a little trick is to use tooth past as a mild polish.
kevG
fit a trigger shoe.the sears can be polished to get rid of any creep.a little trick is to use tooth past as a mild polish.
kevG
From personal experience I would chose a HW100 every day of the week and twice on a weekend over any Rapid.
I had a Rapid and to this day I hate that vile thing... Inaccurate, blew seals, mag springs pinging undone, no pressure gauge, internals messed with by every previous owner and there dog (as others say). No mater how simple it is to take a rifle a part don`t.... leave it to the professionals and pay the money to have it sorted correctly. I would rather spend a bit of extra over time cash or save a bit to afford it to be done properly rather than faff myself, get it wrong possibly having acted on other folks incorrect advise and have lost my time doing it only to have to pay some who knows what they are doing to put it right.
For me the Rapid is a sadist`s choice, someone who always wants there to be something wrong to mess with or repair/replace and improve. A rifle is for shooting not taking a part every 5 minutes, Keep the HW100 and use it, enjoy shooting it.
Below are others with the same thought and feelings, we have been there and tried it so can advise first hand !
ATB
Matt
.177 HW100 KT, Hawke Sidewinder 4-14x44 SR Pro, A&M Twink Modorator.
I had an Airwolf which was a nightmare and I have an air ranger which is sweet and a keeper. It is an FAC though which is another good FAC gun.
In a battle of wits I refuse to engage with an unarmed person.
To one shot one kill, you need to seek the S. Kill only comes from Skill
What one person likes, another hates, I have 4 Rapids, I wouldn't swap any of them for an hw100.
All of mine are more accurate than me,the mk4 triggers are as good as any other I have tried, even my rapid with the gamo is fine (infact its my go to hunting gun) I must admit though some are rubbish.
Personally I like a self indexing mag, far easier to replace a mag than repair a index system that is fitted to the gun.
As for a q/f and gauge, a cheap an easy upgrade (if that's what you want) but I'm not bothered with those either, more things to go wrong.
3 of my guns have regs, they give a few extra shots with no power curve but they don't make the gun more accurate than the unregged gun.
I also like the scope mounts and the cocking bolt.
Reliability, my old mk1 has shot 100s of thousands of pellets, had it for over 20 years, only ever let me down once, a blown o ring that cost 10p and 5 mins to fix. Other than a recent service on the regs of the other 3, none have caused any issues.
Bb
Matt, KevG can verify that mine was a rare as rockinghorse manure unmolested mark 1, still had the anti tamper in place, but still made 14 ft lb! Theoben quality was variable. Which is why mine went to see KevG who sorted it out for a price that did not make my eyes water and transformed the gun (actually made it legal for a bloody start).
It was accurate, the magazine was not a problem to load, quite simple in fact, once you got the knack of it! It was a good gun, problem is finding one that has not been in the hands of a bad tuner, there are many out there and many instructions on how to make them better, some tips are better than others, some people's abilities better than others.
If you do find one, my advice is to get it to someone who knows what they are doing, like KevG as they can sort the problems out.
The RAW HM1000 or HM1000x from the states is a very nice gun with an excellent reputation. It is a variation on the Rapid with a lever action. I ave two of them and they have been very reliable and very accurate.
Yes, another downside is that every part seems to be subject to change and inconsistency from factory spec. Having just found my mk2 block is missing some machining inside......
You get the impression there are a few "parts bin" rifles out there from factory.
But it does have the anschutz trigger so I'll forgive it.
Nothing overly major. I was wondering why I couldn't get the valve port/ grub screw hole to line up where they should, the valve just wouldn't push in far enough. Turns out unlike most (or so I thought but I'd stand corrected) mk2's mine doesn't have the recess for the oring (the small one on the valve tail).
Which isn't the end of the world, I'm guessing I can just remove that oring from the valve and It might seal anyway.