I'm thinking about getting a set of these
https://www.workshopheaven.com/narex...-set-of-9.html
I'm thinking about getting a set of these
https://www.workshopheaven.com/narex...-set-of-9.html
I got this set. Bloody expensive, but they are used every day and work every time. You can't put a price on that.
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I wanted the Pachmayr set but they were OOS everywhere when I finally got around to buying them!
"Who's the only one here that knows illegal ninja moves from the government?"
Mine is a Brownells Magna-Tip set, with extra bits from an old B-Square set, a few random other bits (eg torx bits, which I hate with a vengeance), and a Grace 9-piece set of turnscrews.
Just looked these up on e b a y. Astonished at what they cost, especially given that these days they must be made in China.
I have a feeling that you can find the same things for much less if they are marketed as general tools, rather than special gunsmith tools. Anyone know?
I've made my own similar to those you can buy and I've also modified Stanley and Wera screwdrivers to fit correctly with diamond files or slow wet grinding so there's no need to anneal then re-harden and temper. I've found the old pre WW2 to 1960's Stanleys to be probably the best (toughest) steel around, some of the modern stuff even from quality manufacturers doesn't hold a candle to the old steels. Some people say it's because of various bombs going off that contaminated post war steels however I just think the post 1960 steels are usually inferior possibly because of other contaminants in recycled steels. I'm not a metallurgist I just know enough to get by to heat treat carbon and alloy steels without destroying them. Wera seem to be around the best of the modern steels for screwdriver and hex bit manufacture.
BSA Super10 addict, other BSA's inc GoldstarSE, Original (Diana) Mod75's, Diana Mod5, HW80's, SAM 11K... All sorted!
hollow ground tips is what you need, it fills the screw in the full length of the tip that's in the screw.
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51o7zKYQpVL.jpg
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-r0wBdYah_V...river_tips.jpg
It's actually true Tom... Pre nuclear steel commands a high price because of its non contaminated structure. I remember when they sold an old dry dock gate from Portsmouth naval base for loads of money because it was made from 40's steel. Look here;
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-background_steel
I'd hold on to those screwdrivers if I were you
"corners should be round" Theo Evo .22/.177 - Meopta 6x42, DS huntsman classic .20 vortex razor LH 3-15x42 under supervised boingrati tuning by Tony L & Tinbum, HW77 forest green - Nikon prostaff 2-7x32 plex.
The pre war steel is valuable only in the science industry.
It does not posses magical mechanical strength; it lacks radioactive contamination.
Steels which were produced and stored in a protected way (under water) prior to 1945 have a lower level of background radiation in them, this is vital if you are building instruments which are highly sensitive to radioactivity.
If you want a great read then look into the German Imperial fleet which the British captured at the end of WW1.
the fleet was interned at Scapa Flow and scuttled by the german crews - Some of it is now on a trip into the depths of universe, it has been used for high precision instruments for decades and was the source of the steel used in the construction of the Voyager spacecraft.
Professional job, professional tools
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod78280.aspx
A man can always use more alcohol, tobacco and firearms.
Any set of well fitting screwdrivers will do. The important thing is to get a decent set in the common head sizes (Philips rather than pozi most usually). I got an admittedly cheap set of screwdrivers from Screwfix and they have held up well, if I had cash to splash I would of course get something better.
Take a look on ukworkshop forums, lots of cabinet makers and tool enthusiasts, a quick search will put you in the right direction.
Those are The Ones To Get ..
' And, the ideal parallel section is ground at the tip to fit the screw slot properly through the full width and depth of the slot. This is what keeps you from buggering screws - a blade tip that evenly distributes the turning torque applied at the handle to the full width and depth of the screw slot.'
Great advice, thanks Chaps !
Not sure what Ill get yet but there's some quality kit here !
“An airgun or two”………