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Thread: Gunsmith's Screwdrivers ?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
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    Wheeler make gunsmiths screwdriver set , you can get different size sets. I have used them for years with no problems.
    .22 Venom Mach 1 (FAC) 6-25x56 Millett.
    .22 Venom Mach 2 Thumbhole 6.5-20x40 Leupold EFR.
    .22 Venom Mach 2 Sporter 4-12x40 Leupold.
    .177 Venom Vantage 4-16x50.
    .177 Venom Daystate 8-32x56 AGS.
    .22 Venom Datstate 4-16x56 AGS.
    .22 Webley Venom FX2000 6-18x40 Busnel Legend.
    .177 Titan MPT by Steve Pope 6-24x40 Tasco.
    .177 Pro-Sport 4-16x50.
    .22 Webley FX2000 3-9x33 Leupold EFR.
    .177 Logan Solo 4-16x50.
    .22 HW90 (spring powered) 4-16x50
    .22 Gamo Stutzen.
    .177 Walther lever action.

  2. #17
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    +1 for the bsquare set. I have this and for the price they are excellent. A good variety of hollow ground bits and the extras.
    I have a browning auto 5 which has screws with very thin and wide slots - this set works a treat. I think it's about 30 quid
    Donald

  3. #18
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    Sep 2010
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    Exeter
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    Brownells sell Bondhus sets which are usually good gear.
    You could try looking for "Aircraft quality" tools from general suppliers but they tend to be way pricy as does anything marked for Aircraft use.

  4. #19
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    May 2011
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    A few miles east of Nottingham
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    I have a Chapman set, American made but I got it from someone in UK (Sorry, cant remember who). Fairly comprehensive set of hollow ground bits, but I still occasionally find a screw I can't match. For guns which I strip regularly I try to fit screws with allen heads wherever possible - saves loads of hassle.

  5. #20
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    Jul 2009
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackrider View Post
    I need a set of the above, so does anyone know of a good source ?
    Thanks.
    I found these at a Boot Sale for £2 a good buy in my opinion.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/fronte...57629553489887

  6. #21
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    Aug 2008
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    Ashford
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    Thumbs up

    Quote Originally Posted by venoman View Post
    Wheeler make gunsmiths screwdriver set , you can get different size sets. I have used them for years with no problems.
    I picked up a set of these from 1967spud (reloading supply website) last year.
    Excellent set with a bit for every occasion and the option to use them with torq drivers.

    Also very friendly chap runs the site, top service.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by rancidtom View Post
    I've made my own similar to those you can buy and I've also modified Stanley and Wera screwdrivers to fit correctly with diamond files or slow wet grinding so there's no need to anneal then re-harden and temper. I've found the old pre WW2 to 1960's Stanleys to be probably the best (toughest) steel around, some of the modern stuff even from quality manufacturers doesn't hold a candle to the old steels. Some people say it's because of various bombs going off that contaminated post war steels however I just think the post 1960 steels are usually inferior possibly because of other contaminants in recycled steels. I'm not a metallurgist I just know enough to get by to heat treat carbon and alloy steels without destroying them. Wera seem to be around the best of the modern steels for screwdriver and hex bit manufacture.
    It's actually true Tom... Pre nuclear steel commands a high price because of its non contaminated structure. I remember when they sold an old dry dock gate from Portsmouth naval base for loads of money because it was made from 40's steel. Look here;
    https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Low-background_steel

    I'd hold on to those screwdrivers if I were you
    "corners should be round" Theo Evo .22/.177 - Meopta 6x42, DS huntsman classic .20 vortex razor LH 3-15x42 under supervised boingrati tuning by Tony L & Tinbum, HW77 forest green - Nikon prostaff 2-7x32 plex.

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vernal View Post
    I have a Chapman set
    Me too, bought in the early 80's and still have them
    Custom BSA S10 .22 PAX Phoenix Mk 2 .22 Custom Titan Manitou .22 (JB BP) HW77 .22 FWB Sport Mk1 .22 Sharp Ace .22 Crossman 600 .22 Berretta 92 .20 Desert Eagle .177

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by rancidtom View Post
    I've made my own similar to those you can buy and I've also modified Stanley and Wera screwdrivers to fit correctly with diamond files or slow wet grinding so there's no need to anneal then re-harden and temper. I've found the old pre WW2 to 1960's Stanleys to be probably the best (toughest) steel around, some of the modern stuff even from quality manufacturers doesn't hold a candle to the old steels. Some people say it's because of various bombs going off that contaminated post war steels however I just think the post 1960 steels are usually inferior possibly because of other contaminants in recycled steels. I'm not a metallurgist I just know enough to get by to heat treat carbon and alloy steels without destroying them. Wera seem to be around the best of the modern steels for screwdriver and hex bit manufacture.
    The pre war steel is valuable only in the science industry.
    It does not posses magical mechanical strength; it lacks radioactive contamination.

    Steels which were produced and stored in a protected way (under water) prior to 1945 have a lower level of background radiation in them, this is vital if you are building instruments which are highly sensitive to radioactivity.

    If you want a great read then look into the German Imperial fleet which the British captured at the end of WW1.
    the fleet was interned at Scapa Flow and scuttled by the german crews - Some of it is now on a trip into the depths of universe, it has been used for high precision instruments for decades and was the source of the steel used in the construction of the Voyager spacecraft.

  10. #25
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    It's probably that I notice the differences in post 1960's steel related to pre- and immediately post WW2 that are maybe more due to manufacturing and refining differences. These days we have numerous special recipe steels claimed to be better than traditional carbon steels. Chrome, vanadium, molybdenum, nickel, tungsten, titanium and other elements added to iron to supposedly make it longer lasting, hold a better edge, be more corrosion resistant, less brittle, tougher... I do think quite a lot of it is marketing hype as I can make a screwdriver from a bar of tool steel that will perform as well as some of the expensive "best ever" screwdrivers you can buy with all their fancy alloy claims.
    Correct fit and profile of the blade, finish is important too as grinding/filing marks can be a useful aid to help prevent cam-out but the hollow ground profile is the biggest contributor to anticam-out. It also extends the life of the screw head.
    BSA Super10 addict, other BSA's inc GoldstarSE, Original (Diana) Mod75's, Diana Mod5, HW80's, SAM 11K... All sorted!

  11. #26
    Hsing-ee's Avatar
    Hsing-ee is offline may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
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    Quote Originally Posted by RichardH View Post
    Professional job, professional tools

    http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-to...prod78280.aspx
    Those are The Ones To Get ..

    ' And, the ideal parallel section is ground at the tip to fit the screw slot properly through the full width and depth of the slot. This is what keeps you from buggering screws - a blade tip that evenly distributes the turning torque applied at the handle to the full width and depth of the screw slot.'

  12. #27
    Blackrider's Avatar
    Blackrider is offline It don't mean a thing, if it ain't got a Spring
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    Great advice, thanks Chaps !

    Not sure what Ill get yet but there's some quality kit here !
    “An airgun or two”………

  13. #28
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    May 2001
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    With Rancid turnscrews pretty easy to make better than anything available having tried many of the so called ultimate from around the world inc US.

    Pachmayer are soft as with most of above listed, fine for diy, pro forget it. Will spend more time filing them up than using.

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