BSA R10 buddy bottle, leaks when putting it back on.

[RichardinDorset]

So this may be a silly question, but what's the correct way to put the buddy bottle back on an R10?

As soon as I begin to screw the bottle back on, there is air leaking from somewhere under the barrel. On my other PCP's you just get a small hiss as the regulator fills.

Is there a knack to it?

[secretagentmole]

Change the O ring?

[RichardinDorset]

Change the O ring?

It's leaking from the valve block, hard to say exactly where but I can feel the air coming from the area near the sticker that says Caution Pressurised.

I'm wondering if the valve has jammed after being emptied, prior to taking off the bottle?

[rancidtom]

There is a non-return valve between the fill port and the bottle, which can stick open if there is any dust, dirt or decayed bits of O ring in there. Darrin at XTX Air put up a youtube video of how to strip and clean the inlet valve. It's not too big a job.

[RichardinDorset]

The leak is definitely between the regulator block and the 'part 38', so looking at the regulator block, the air must be bypassing the regulator.

This gun has a Bowkett regulator so not sure how far to go taking it to bits!

The quick fill valve and bottle valve all look clean.

[mick.c]

Hi mate if I was you and this is just my opinion i'd throw the Bowkett reg away and fit a huma reg....cheers

Mick

[RichardinDorset]

Sorted now. 'part 38' was slightly lose.

It seems a bit of an odd design, but the valve block, part 38 and the toast rack form a chamber, between the regulator and the knock off valve, but there are no seals between them, just one bolt through the middle.

There's no o-ring or gaskets, just a surface seal. So it doesn't take much for the air to leak out...

For some reason, taking the bottle off and bleeding off the regulator chamber allowed it to relax a bit and leak.

When I say lose, it needed maybe a 1/8 turn.

There's a vid on XTX showing the tightening of part 38 and it says it can become lose in transit or after taking off the bottle!

[rhyslightnin]

Sorted now. 'part 38' was slightly lose.

It seems a bit of an odd design, but the valve block, part 38 and the toast rack form a chamber, between the regulator and the knock off valve, but there are no seals between them, just one bolt through the middle.

There's no o-ring or gaskets, just a surface seal. So it doesn't take much for the air to leak out...

For some reason, taking the bottle off and bleeding off the regulator chamber allowed it to relax a bit and leak.

When I say lose, it needed maybe a 1/8 turn.

There's a vid on XTX showing the tightening of part 38 and it says it can become lose in transit or after taking off the bottle!

Thanks for the info... I'd recently thought mine had dumped all the air but as it turned out the bottle had come undone and the reg pressure dropped to nothing over a few shots, a chap on here pm'd me and bingo, rifle working again! I was almost sending it off to be tuned!
Great source of information on here!
Rhys

[RichardinDorset]

Hi mate if I was you and this is just my opinion i'd throw the Bowkett reg away and fit a huma reg....cheers

Mick

Really? Isn't that heresy?

Well I'll run it over the chrono and see if it's working first. I'm just glad it's holding air again at the moment!

[secretagentmole]

Really? Isn't that heresy?

Well I'll run it over the chrono and see if it's working first. I'm just glad it's holding air again at the moment!

No it is not!

[RichardinDorset]

No it is not!

OK I was kidding, but what's the advantage of the Huma?

My R10 chrono's at 755 to 748, 10 pellets at 200bar and 10 at 150bar, all between 755 and 748.

I though 7fps spread was pretty good. But I guess 3fps spread would be better!