HW35E stock re-finishing advice

[rapidshot]

Anybody with knowledge/advice please.
I have a really nice walnut HW35E stock that I am re- finishing and I need some advice about which wood dye/ colour to use on it. It currently back to its ' natural' colour and the finish before I stripped it was very light, not the usual darker walnut stain . I want to get it back as close as I can to the original finish and the walnut dye I use is too dark.
Does anybody have advice on what dye/ colour/ finish to use please.
Oh, forgot to mention , I usually finish with refined danish oil, 2-4 coats depending upon the stock wood.... Beech, Walnut etc.
Thanks

[Gareth W-B]

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Morning. Just wait for our I. J. to happen along. He'll be able to point you in the right direction, I am sure, as he is our very own resident HW35 Yoda (but less good looking ). Atb: G.

[Blackmax]

Firstly if it is an HW35E it will have a walnut stock so don't whatever you do stain it. Stain will hide the true colouring and natural beauty of the wood.

The reason it was that colour before stripping was probably because the original oil finish had become darker with use over the years .

Once you have prepared the wood correctly then you can apply the oil finish, if you PM me I'll give you my email address so I can go through the prep stage.

There are a number of oil finishes you can use, I make my own, but Danish oil is good if applied correctly, CCL Gunstock conditioning oil is also good.

[Gareth W-B]

Hi Blackmax, then you, too deserve the handle 'Yoda' lol.

If OK with you, I would like to keep your details for future renovation advice, too?

[Blackmax]

Hi Blackmax, then you, too deserve the handle 'Yoda' lol.

If OK with you, I would like to keep your details for future renovation advice, too?

Of course Gareth, pm me your email address and I'll get in contact.

[Blackmax]

Out of interest how do you post photos on this site?

[I. J.]

.
Morning. Just wait for our I. J. to happen along. He'll be able to point you in the right direction, I am sure, as he is our very own resident HW35 Yoda (but less good looking ). Atb: G.

Im that ugly I should have a flavour of Monster Munch named after me.

There is several secret recipes floating about, every gunsmith has their own, but Ive always had good results from CCL products, sealer, oil and polish and if I can use them successfully they must be fool proof. Just have patience - it cant be done overnight.

This is my latest attempt, which, when bough, was bone dry. https://imgur.com/ifXx87L

[rapidshot]

Thank you gents. Blackmax PM inbound
Stock is definitely walnut and it's back to its natural bare wood finish. One I have completed it I'll post photos for a score out of 10 ....

[I. J.]

This is a standard beech stock I stained and Danish oiled.

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Airs...l?sort=6&o=136

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Airs...l?sort=6&o=139

http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Airs...l?sort=6&o=140

ATB
Ian .

[Blackmax]

Thank you gents. Blackmax PM inbound
Stock is definitely walnut and it's back to its natural bare wood finish. One I have completed it I'll post photos for a score out of 10 ....

Emailed you mate.

[ben_tucka]

walnut wood will get darker once oiled I too avoid using stain on walnut (ruins walnut grain). to get an idea of the colour once oiled or finished wet a patch using your finger the colour it turns once damp will be the finished colour (or close enough) then you need to decide if you want a glossy finish or a more traditional oiled finish on it (I personally love oiled and waxed stocks the rain beads up and rolls of the stocks Ive done).

Ben

[rapidshot]

Thanks Ben.... Thinking through how to do it ... Taking my time 😀

[thisisdonald]

I don't see anything wrong with staining walnut, after all, it's the light weight and the beautiful grain that we are primarily interested in. I'm sorry if that offends the walnut refinishing puritans.
When it comes to staining, I use an alcohol based stain, that way I can apply it once I've finished any sanding I need to do, and it won't raise the grain too much, unlike water based stain.
I use colron and mix them together to get the colour I want, testing on the inletting.
I've also added highlights using a teabag / alcohol solution to get some yellow tones into dye that was a really flat lifeless brown. Saffron is also good, but avoid string smelling stuff like coffee.
I like a tru-oil or Danish oil finish. Then waxed.

[Blackmax]

My email response to Rapidshot if it's of help to others.

Hi Carl,
Firstly you need to prepare the wood correctly, you've obviously got the finish off and I don't know how you did this.

To remove old finish I use a varnish stripper such as Paramorse or other readily available similar products. Make sure ALL fittings are removed. After applying it and leaving it did ten minutes I remove the finish with an old very blunt butter knife. Once I've removed most of the finish I use '000' grade wire wool dipped in stripper (make sure you wear protective gloves). Once done you need to neutralise the stock, I use meths on a cloth and then give the stock a good wash down with water, dry it immediately with a hair drier. The hair drier has two purposes as you'll see.

Now it's time to prepare the wood for the oil finish. Please, please, please don't dye walnut, it doesn't need it, any walnut however poor will look better with its natural grain showing. Start with abrasive paper 160 grade this will remove the last of any residue, ensure you use a sanding block for the flat straight areas or you'll end up with troughs and unevenness. Make sure you avoid the checkering panels unless you're in a position to recut them. Once you've done this dampen the stock with a wet cloth or sponge, dry it with the hair drier, if you now rub your hand over the wood you see why, patches of wood fibres sticking out. Now use new 240 grade abrasive paper, this will remove the fibres you raised. Same again, dampen with a wet cloth, dry with a hair drier and then use 320 abrasive paper to remove further fibres. Same again follow this process but now use 400 grade abrasive paper. Wet the stock again fit the last time then dry it and go over it with 400 grade abrasive paper again. Rub your hand over the stock to check for any rough patches, remove them with 400 grade abrasive paper.

Now time for the oil finish, don't whatever you do rush this stage. If you've got any old cotton shirts or sheets they are ideal for applying and removing the oil. I recall you've used Danish oil before? If so this is fine but not the best. For the first couple of coats split whatever oil you use 50/50 with pure natural turps. You can use boiled linseed oil, Danish oil, tung oil, supermarket walnut oil or a combination of them. Boiled linseed oil is fine, it has driers in it but you'll still have to leave it a day between coats. The turps helps the oil penetrate the wood and also aids it in drying. First two coats, apply a thin coat of oil and rub it over the whole stock, leave it ten minutes and use a clean cloth to remove any excess oil. Twenty four hours later do the same. After six coats (six days work) you should be close to the finish you want. Add more coats for a more glossy finish. If you want a matt/satin finish rub it over with '0000' grade wire wool.

Hope this helps

Andy



Sent from my iPad

[Gareth W-B]

Of course Gareth, pm me your email address and I'll get in contact.

Many thanks. Will do just that when the time is nigh.