Hft zero

[Steyr]

You want to play with mag to suit your eye and your scope.

Generally 10 max.

You want to see the longer targets but the more mag you put on, the fuzzier and blurred the short range becomes.

You have 3 potential bands or zones of focus that will immediately tell you which zone the target lays.

You want to focus the scope so the 45 is JUST blurred but essentially shootable and the 40 is clear or just starting to blur.

That's Zone 3 sorted.

Zone 1 will be close stuff and will also be blurred.

Zone 2 will be the zone that you will see in sharp focus

SO you can know the EXACT distance where each zone transitions so this gives you a rough idea.

You need to mess around with mag to see which gives the best idea of image at 40/45 and what gives the best possible close range image - its the ultra close stuff that will be the issue for you.

Dig out any stuff from Brian Samson.....He knows his stuff and you will learn a lot technically which you can try in the field.

Very fine rets with multi aim point points will help you with your aim points. I find Mil dot is too big and you need mil with half dots too. I like the MTC SCB Christmas tree ret with a floating + cross hair.

[lensman57]

You want to play with mag to suit your eye and your scope.

Generally 10 max.

You want to see the longer targets but the more mag you put on, the fuzzier and blurred the short range becomes.

You have 3 potential bands or zones of focus that will immediately tell you which zone the target lays.

You want to focus the scope so the 45 is JUST blurred but essentially shootable and the 40 is clear or just starting to blur.

That's Zone 3 sorted.

Zone 1 will be close stuff and will also be blurred.

Zone 2 will be the zone that you will see in sharp focus

SO you can know the EXACT distance where each zone transitions so this gives you a rough idea.

You need to mess around with mag to see which gives the best idea of image at 40/45 and what gives the best possible close range image - its the ultra close stuff that will be the issue for you.

Dig out any stuff from Brian Samson.....He knows his stuff and you will learn a lot technically which you can try in the field.

Very fine rets with multi aim point points will help you with your aim points. I find Mil dot is too big and you need mil with half dots too. I like the MTC SCB Christmas tree ret with a floating + cross hair.

^^^

This is a good start.

A.G

[bozzer]

You'll get lots of variable answers on this ... but that is HFT ... you find out what works for you.

As Chris mentioned you need to take some input from what targets you find yourself being strong on and what you find you are weaker on.

My set up was very similar to Chris's. I used higher mounts than most which kept the aim points tighter at the longer targets.

Most people will say that a 15mm kill at 25 yards is one of the hardest targets. These will all be prone and you will be pretty steady on aim for these.

I technically didn't have a zero ... or worried about a zero. You just have to know in HFT where your aim points are and your point of impacts at various ranges.

I used to set my scope up at @ 9x. I would put a 15mm circle out at 25 yards and would 'zero' the scope so that I could aim just inside the bottom edge of that 15mm circle and the point of impact would be central to that 15mm kill or maybe very slightly high of central. As I shot at 15mm kills towards 20 yards and just below 20 yards the point of impact would be closer to the actual aim point. Your groups prone at this distance should be cloverleaf from the HFT prone position.

So all that meant that if a target was 15mm and between 20 and 25 it would still go down with me aiming between dead centre and bottom of kill.

This equated ( like Chris ) to my actual zero being around 37/38 yards. So anything in the 35 to 40 yard range I could aim inside the kill ( even the 25mm kills ). So if I wasn't sure if that target was 35 or 40 yards, I could aim inside top of kill and the chances were they'd go down. I also didn't have that much holdover at the max range of 45 yards. There's a bit more work to do at closer ranges but I found my range finding at closer ranges was accurate and the 15mm kills are all prone. At below 20 yards in HFT prone you should basically be making ragged pellet sized holes so you soon learn that a couple of aim points will cover everything from 13 yards to 20 yards ( no 15mm kills below 13 yards ).

It's also a big help if you learn the basic rules re kill sizes and range limits.

It really is about finding what works for you.

[mattylawrence]

Thanks for your input all! Lots to think about!

[si7777777]

Have a read through this.
Lots of info that helped me a lot.
http://www.anstonftc.co.uk/tag/hft-novice-to-ninja/

[Robet]

A number of posts have mentioned 45 yards as the maximum. Shouldn't that be 55 yards?

Just done some googling. Seems like different rules apply for different organising bodies.

e.g SWEFTA 55yds, UKAHFT 45yds.

That makes life simpler!
Rob

[ChrisC]

A number of posts have mentioned 45 yards as the maximum. Shouldn't that be 55 yards?

Just done some googling. Seems like different rules apply for different organising bodies.

e.g SWEFTA 55yds, UKAHFT 45yds.

That makes life simpler!
Rob

Hi Rob,
HFT = Hunter Field Target (UKAHFT)
FT = Field Target (SWEFTA is a region of the BFTA)

Very, very different mate in rules, kit, positions et al.