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Thread: Hft zero

  1. #1
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    Hft zero

    Wanting to start doing a bit of hft, I've got a hw 100, in. 177. Generally what range do most people zero at and what mag/parallax settings?

  2. #2
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    With good eyes parallax 23ish.
    10mag.
    I like a 30yard zero as 45 should be on your first milldot. However alot of people use 25 as there will be no hold under so you can aim top of kill more.
    All very personal though.
    Si
    The OAKS
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  3. #3
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    I have 23 yard parallax at 10x mag and zero at 18 yards.
    However the best advice I could give is get to a range and try as many options as you can

    - everyone is different. Different eyes/preferences so what works for a world champion might not work for you
    - Ditto scopes. 10x mag on one brand may not quite be 10x mag on another. And an indicated 23 yard parallax may be different depending on how well built the scopes are
    - You need to decide how you prefer to shoot and match your scope to this. I prefer no hold under so my ideal zero would be 25 yards. However my garden is only 18 yards long so thats what I use. In reality there isn't that much difference between 18 and 25 so I just live with it.
    - I have my parallax set up to blur the target at certain ranges. This is a really common way of range finding. The only way to get this how you like is to test it in small increments.
    - I use a second focal plane scope and use the magnification to set my hold overs at long range. I got my power and pellets all set first. Then zero to 20 yards. Then play with the magnification until 45 yards is either 1 dot or 1.5 mil dot. Then check all the other ranges and see if you are happy with them. Just happened to work out at almost exactly 10x mag

    My holdovers are roughly:
    8 yard = -2.5 dot
    10 yard = -1.5 dot
    15 yard = -0.5 dot
    20-30 = flat
    35 yard = -0.5
    40 yard = -1
    45 yard = -1.5

    These aren't exact (18 and 30 yard should actually be -0.25 dot). But for my level of accuracy/skill they are fine.

  4. #4
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    Mines a fixed 10 sightron, 37 yard zero, 22 yard px setting, and scope on medium/high mounts.

    My holdovers/unders are roughly:
    8 yard = -1.5 dot
    10 yard = -1.0 dot
    15 yard = crosshair
    20 yard = 0.25
    25 yard = 0.5
    30 yard = 0.25
    35 yard = 0.25 (ish)
    37 yard = crosshair
    40 yard = -0.25
    45 yard = -0.5

    You can see the pro's and cons compared to Dan's setting above and it's down to the type of target you tend to miss. If you really struggle with the 15mm kils then a 25 or 30 yard zero helps but you'll have a large holdover at 45 yards wheres mine is only 0.5 mildot (lines on my Sightron). the reason i set mine up like that was because at national HFT shoots targets started getting longer and the introduction or 25mm kills out to 40 yards were the ones i missed. With my zero i can stay in 25mm kill whether it's 35 or 40 yards. quite a few people use 35 yards as it's a 'central' position and gives the best mix of needed holdover/under.
    Chairman Emley Moor F.T.C. 2023 - Misfits champ, HFT extreme champ, NEFTA hunter champ, Midlands Hunter champ, UKAHFT champ.
    https://sites.google.com/site/emleymoorftc/contact-us

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by mattylawrence View Post
    Wanting to start doing a bit of hft, I've got a hw 100, in. 177. Generally what range do most people zero at and what mag/parallax settings?
    What scope? What height mounts? What is the least scope mag that you can discern a 35mm target @ 45 yards with your eyes?

    A.G

  6. #6
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    You want to play with mag to suit your eye and your scope.

    Generally 10 max.

    You want to see the longer targets but the more mag you put on, the fuzzier and blurred the short range becomes.

    You have 3 potential bands or zones of focus that will immediately tell you which zone the target lays.

    You want to focus the scope so the 45 is JUST blurred but essentially shootable and the 40 is clear or just starting to blur.

    That's Zone 3 sorted.

    Zone 1 will be close stuff and will also be blurred.

    Zone 2 will be the zone that you will see in sharp focus

    SO you can know the EXACT distance where each zone transitions so this gives you a rough idea.

    You need to mess around with mag to see which gives the best idea of image at 40/45 and what gives the best possible close range image - its the ultra close stuff that will be the issue for you.

    Dig out any stuff from Brian Samson.....He knows his stuff and you will learn a lot technically which you can try in the field.

    Very fine rets with multi aim point points will help you with your aim points. I find Mil dot is too big and you need mil with half dots too. I like the MTC SCB Christmas tree ret with a floating + cross hair.
    In a battle of wits I refuse to engage with an unarmed person.
    To one shot one kill, you need to seek the S. Kill only comes from Skill

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steyr View Post
    You want to play with mag to suit your eye and your scope.

    Generally 10 max.

    You want to see the longer targets but the more mag you put on, the fuzzier and blurred the short range becomes.

    You have 3 potential bands or zones of focus that will immediately tell you which zone the target lays.

    You want to focus the scope so the 45 is JUST blurred but essentially shootable and the 40 is clear or just starting to blur.

    That's Zone 3 sorted.

    Zone 1 will be close stuff and will also be blurred.

    Zone 2 will be the zone that you will see in sharp focus

    SO you can know the EXACT distance where each zone transitions so this gives you a rough idea.

    You need to mess around with mag to see which gives the best idea of image at 40/45 and what gives the best possible close range image - its the ultra close stuff that will be the issue for you.

    Dig out any stuff from Brian Samson.....He knows his stuff and you will learn a lot technically which you can try in the field.

    Very fine rets with multi aim point points will help you with your aim points. I find Mil dot is too big and you need mil with half dots too. I like the MTC SCB Christmas tree ret with a floating + cross hair.
    ^^^

    This is a good start.

    A.G

  8. #8
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    You'll get lots of variable answers on this ... but that is HFT ... you find out what works for you.

    As Chris mentioned you need to take some input from what targets you find yourself being strong on and what you find you are weaker on.

    My set up was very similar to Chris's. I used higher mounts than most which kept the aim points tighter at the longer targets.

    Most people will say that a 15mm kill at 25 yards is one of the hardest targets. These will all be prone and you will be pretty steady on aim for these.

    I technically didn't have a zero ... or worried about a zero. You just have to know in HFT where your aim points are and your point of impacts at various ranges.

    I used to set my scope up at @ 9x. I would put a 15mm circle out at 25 yards and would 'zero' the scope so that I could aim just inside the bottom edge of that 15mm circle and the point of impact would be central to that 15mm kill or maybe very slightly high of central. As I shot at 15mm kills towards 20 yards and just below 20 yards the point of impact would be closer to the actual aim point. Your groups prone at this distance should be cloverleaf from the HFT prone position.

    So all that meant that if a target was 15mm and between 20 and 25 it would still go down with me aiming between dead centre and bottom of kill.

    This equated ( like Chris ) to my actual zero being around 37/38 yards. So anything in the 35 to 40 yard range I could aim inside the kill ( even the 25mm kills ). So if I wasn't sure if that target was 35 or 40 yards, I could aim inside top of kill and the chances were they'd go down. I also didn't have that much holdover at the max range of 45 yards. There's a bit more work to do at closer ranges but I found my range finding at closer ranges was accurate and the 15mm kills are all prone. At below 20 yards in HFT prone you should basically be making ragged pellet sized holes so you soon learn that a couple of aim points will cover everything from 13 yards to 20 yards ( no 15mm kills below 13 yards ).

    It's also a big help if you learn the basic rules re kill sizes and range limits.

    It really is about finding what works for you.

  9. #9
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    Thanks for your input all! Lots to think about!

  10. #10
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    Have a read through this.
    Lots of info that helped me a lot.
    http://www.anstonftc.co.uk/tag/hft-novice-to-ninja/
    The OAKS
    SIHFT WINNERS 2011, 2012, 2013, 2014, 2015 and 2016

  11. #11
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    A number of posts have mentioned 45 yards as the maximum. Shouldn't that be 55 yards?

    Just done some googling. Seems like different rules apply for different organising bodies.

    e.g SWEFTA 55yds, UKAHFT 45yds.

    That makes life simpler!
    Rob
    Last edited by Robet; 10-10-2017 at 09:47 AM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Robet View Post
    A number of posts have mentioned 45 yards as the maximum. Shouldn't that be 55 yards?

    Just done some googling. Seems like different rules apply for different organising bodies.

    e.g SWEFTA 55yds, UKAHFT 45yds.

    That makes life simpler!
    Rob
    Hi Rob,
    HFT = Hunter Field Target (UKAHFT)
    FT = Field Target (SWEFTA is a region of the BFTA)

    Very, very different mate in rules, kit, positions et al.
    Chairman Emley Moor F.T.C. 2023 - Misfits champ, HFT extreme champ, NEFTA hunter champ, Midlands Hunter champ, UKAHFT champ.
    https://sites.google.com/site/emleymoorftc/contact-us

  13. #13
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    HFT generally was 45. FT was generaly 55.
    But the various leagues and organisations have their own rules so you need to know them or you may fall foul of them.
    Best advice is to get to learn you range estimation.
    The knock down target used to be 110 mm from the hinge point to the CENTRE of the kill paddle....therefore it didt matter if it was 15 or 20 or 40mm hole. Its called bracketing. A decent ret with multiple stadia is better for this over Milldots in my personal opinion. Many courses now use bespoke made knock downs to overcome people who use bracketing.
    As I said...checl out BRIAN SAMSONs work. He is a tactical thinker and likes to use science and hocus pocus to work out ways to guage ranges....
    But Mk1 eyeball and lots of p4actice is a good primary when trained.
    Decent course setters can use lots of tricks to fool you like using long narrow tree plantation rows....people always think its long and it can be a damned sight closer than you think
    In a battle of wits I refuse to engage with an unarmed person.
    To one shot one kill, you need to seek the S. Kill only comes from Skill

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisC View Post
    Hi Rob,
    HFT = Hunter Field Target (UKAHFT)
    FT = Field Target (SWEFTA is a region of the BFTA)

    Very, very different mate in rules, kit, positions et al.
    Swefta hft is shot from 10-55 yards over a 40 target course normally,our region is different to ukahft rules so the o.p. Is correct,ft ranges are the same as a few of the clubs have one course so we shoot both disciplines on the same course

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by shakeysimon View Post
    Swefta hft is shot from 10-55 yards over a 40 target course normally,our region is different to ukahft rules so the o.p. Is correct,ft ranges are the same as a few of the clubs have one course so we shoot both disciplines on the same course
    I really don't know how many different versions of this HFT is being practiced in the UK as I have seen videos of some HFT comps on U tube with the shooters apparently allowed to fiddle with their scopes ala FT and with more freedom in their stance and kneeling postures, . Confused you will not be after this episode of the HFT SOAP.
    When I and my shooting friends have an informal practice we tend to abide by the normal HFT rules regarding stance and scope. .

    A.G
    Last edited by lensman57; 14-10-2017 at 10:06 AM.

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