Although no re letters on serial no mercury is in gold on the action,looked up the TR ROBB piston head dunno wether its worth the money if you can use the std piston head,thoughts guys??
Although no re letters on serial no mercury is in gold on the action,looked up the TR ROBB piston head dunno wether its worth the money if you can use the std piston head,thoughts guys??
Standard piston head is fine ino.
Plinkerer and Tinkerer
According to John Knibbs your Merc is a normal one not an S, the way to tell is it will have S engraved on the top of the cylinder after Mercury, it should have a walnut stock with checkering on the pistol grip and forend and the barrel should be 17mm thick instead of the standard 15.5mm, as for the piston head, replace the buffer washer as quick as possible before it has any chance to lock up the piston, the T R Robb kit is a good kit to get as it comes with different size O rings that can help relieve any piston head tightness that would take hundreds of shots to bed the standard size ring in, if you want to get rid of the buffer washer then you need to cut the shaft down a bit and redrill the hole that the cross pin goes through to hold the head on, you will gain about half a foot pounds (may be a little more) in power so don't go thinking you'll get a shed load of power.
Pete
Far too many rifles to list now, all mainly British but the odd pesky foreigner has snuck in
yes its a std mk3 15.5mm barrel,funds will demand how far i go with it,prob nice guide n tophat n redrill the ally piston just want it smooth 10.5lb is enough for me on any spinger,shes in a very poor state,in bits deep pitting on barrel actions ruff but not as bad bit ov copper pipe as a guide,no buffer and open sights missing,im going to try cold blue kit then hot oil blue on top to try n get a deeper blue,ive done a couple ov wreckers with this hot oil blue with good success,stocks not that ruff but going to sand it back n re stain n oil.
I wouldn't even bother with the cold blue kit, I bought an old rifle a couple of years ago and it looked fine in the sellers photo's, when I received it it still looked 'alright' in artificial light but in natural light it looked patchy and dull in areas, when I wiped it over with an oily rag all the bluing came off, I had a go at hot oil blue (the version where you heat the metal and drop it in a tank of oil) but I struggled to get the metal work cherry red all over (as instructed) because all I had was a blow lamp and the heat wasn't enough but I have to say what finish I did got was interesting and looked like case hardening you see on really old rifles, I got it properly blued in the end, if I can get a better heat source then I'd happily try it again.
Pete
Far too many rifles to list now, all mainly British but the odd pesky foreigner has snuck in
i used a propane heat gun,i first did a old hw77 that had painted,i didnt get it cherry red and it took very well plus its self kinda lube ing and keeps the elements at bay,if proper blueing was cheaper i would have it done right.