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Thread: Slow rust blacking

  1. #1
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    Slow rust blacking

    Hi. anyone know of a none Nitric acid slow rust black solution formula which works
    Most solutions require Nitric which you now cant buy and searching the internet I discover that most none nitric ones don't work.
    I am not after other ways of blacking just a tried and tested solution.
    Thanks.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Dunkley View Post
    Hi. anyone know of a none Nitric acid slow rust black solution formula which works
    Most solutions require Nitric which you now cant buy and searching the internet I discover that most none nitric ones don't work.
    I am not after other ways of blacking just a tried and tested solution.
    Thanks.
    A little used blacking solution that works. Source oak shavings ( must be oak ) and a suitable container big enough for the part to be blacked and enough shavings to bury it completely in the middle of the shavings, add water till the shavings are damp and leave till the desired shade of black is achieved, the only downside is it is not a quick process.

  3. #3
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    Thanks

    Hi does this solution promote rusting or just dye the steel. It's RUST blacking I am talking about.
    Thanks anyway.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  4. #4
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    have you looked into using muriatic acid? available as concrete cleaner from toolstation etc (I'm assuming you are looking at rust bluing/blacking) also hydrochloric acid
    You Cannot Reason People Out of Something They Were Not Reasoned Into
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  5. #5
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    Peter... search for micks (t20) thread called 'it's a bit rusty'.
    It's not the paint on solution you are referring to, instead it's the fume bluing which I imagine takes about the same amount if time. I didn't try the solution bluing.
    The fume bluing you can use just about any acid that will cause rust!

    Kenny - I think muriatic acid is the US name for hydrochloric acid.
    You can still buy hydrochloric acid on fleabay. That's what I used for rust bluing
    Donald

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Dunkley View Post
    Hi does this solution promote rusting or just dye the steel. It's RUST blacking I am talking about.
    Thanks anyway.
    It works because there's chemicals in the oak that reacts with iron, so basically all ferrous steels and alloys thereof. It rusts black in the absence of air and relatively quickly, but slower than an acid would. Where as iron immersed in just water will rust, but very slowly due to the lack of air, O2 in gaseous form.

    It's a well known issue in wooden ship/boat building and, why oak on oak, larch on oak built hulls are held together using copper/non ferrous nails and or wooden dooks
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Dunkley View Post
    Hi does this solution promote rusting or just dye the steel. It's RUST blacking I am talking about.
    Thanks anyway.
    Yes, the damp oak shavings corrodes the steel, you just observe and stop the corrosion when the desired "patina" is achieved.

  8. #8
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    Rust

    Quote Originally Posted by thisisdonald View Post
    Peter... search for micks (t20) thread called 'it's a bit rusty'.
    It's not the paint on solution you are referring to, instead it's the fume bluing which I imagine takes about the same amount if time. I didn't try the solution bluing.
    The fume bluing you can use just about any acid that will cause rust!

    Kenny - I think muriatic acid is the US name for hydrochloric acid.
    You can still buy hydrochloric acid on fleabay. That's what I used for rust bluing




    Hi so you do slow rust blue/blacking with success? If the hydrochloric works on it's own "I have some" why do the industry standard solutions i.e.. Pilkingtons use Nitric? as well.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  9. #9
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    Ammonium Chloride

    Here you go, Peter :-

    http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....09#post6324909




    All the best Mick

  10. #10
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    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by T 20 View Post
    Here you go, Peter :-

    http://www.airgunbbs.com/showthread....09#post6324909




    All the best Mick
    Thanks but I did reply to that post, I still have the ammonium chloride I bought and tried. It did rust but the results were patchy and awful. I still don't get the fact that all the successful brews contain Nitric which is nasty stuff. If the ammonium chloride works why do they all use nitric?

    Back to the drawing board. What I am after and don't seem to be getting is someone who blue/blacks professionally. What do they use. I have asked a couple and they just suggest I send them the barrel at £150 a go.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Dunkley View Post
    Thanks but I did reply to that post, I still have the ammonium chloride I bought and tried. It did rust but the results were patchy and awful. I still don't get the fact that all the successful brews contain Nitric which is nasty stuff. If the ammonium chloride works why do they all use nitric?

    Back to the drawing board. What I am after and don't seem to be getting is someone who blue/blacks professionally. What do they use. I have asked a couple and they just suggest I send them the barrel at £150 a go.
    Aye, any professional will be reluctant to give " how to instructions" to a diy'er, it's counter productive to their business, on the positive side there are lots of very good diy boys around, hope you solve the problem soon.a name from the past is Colin Malloy, I don't know if he is still on the go. His work was superb.

  12. #12
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    Colin

    Quote Originally Posted by pegasus View Post
    Aye, any professional will be reluctant to give " how to instructions" to a diy'er, it's counter productive to their business, on the positive side there are lots of very good diy boys around, hope you solve the problem soon.a name from the past is Colin Malloy, I don't know if he is still on the go. His work was superb.
    Thanks I have asked him he does airguns where a hot process wont do any harm. Vintage shotgun barrels are soldered together so great care has to be taken.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  13. #13
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    colin malloy still does it . RichardH on here does them too . http://www.airgunbbs.com/member.php?71303-RichardH

    use his email.

  14. #14
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    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by bighit View Post
    colin malloy still does it . RichardH on here does them too . http://www.airgunbbs.com/member.php?71303-RichardH

    use his email.
    Thanks I will contact both. I thought Colin only did the hot caustic process.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Dunkley View Post
    Thanks I will contact both. I thought Colin only did the hot caustic process.
    im not sure on their process . i was interrupted while typing my reply and you had then replied before i did .

    i know richard has done shotgun barrels before though.

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