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Thread: Slow rust blacking

  1. #16
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    barrels

    Quote Originally Posted by bighit View Post
    im not sure on their process . i was interrupted while typing my reply and you had then replied before i did .

    i know richard has done shotgun barrels before though.
    Possibly. some are brazed.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  2. #17
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    Shotgun barrels can be rust blacked or caustic depending on the construction.

    If you are rust blueing yourself (or browning the process is almost the same) the actual solution you use isn't that critical a plain salt solution will give a perfectly acceptable brown/black the important bits are the preparation beforehand and how you do the final finish at the end.

    The rusting is just that.

    Drop me a line if you get stuck.
    A man can always use more alcohol, tobacco and firearms.

  3. #18
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    Rusting

    Quote Originally Posted by RichardH View Post
    Shotgun barrels can be rust blacked or caustic depending on the construction.

    If you are rust blueing yourself (or browning the process is almost the same) the actual solution you use isn't that critical a plain salt solution will give a perfectly acceptable brown/black the important bits are the preparation beforehand and how you do the final finish at the end.

    The rusting is just that.

    Drop me a line if you get stuck.
    Thanks. What you are saying is that all the hype on the US channels about which Nitric solution is best "is all smoke".
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  4. #19
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  5. #20
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    I think the solution you are talking about is a mixture 50/50 nitric/hydrochloric and you dissolve black iron nails in it until they stop dissolving. You then filter it clean, paint it on and let it rust.
    You will get different recipes which will give different results.

    Its sounds to me like youre trying to find 'the best' recipe to fast track to bluing your barrels. In my opinion you should get some acid and fet bluing a few times before you start on your barrels. Theres more to the process than just the right recipe.

    Preperation is the absolute key. But ambient temperature and humidity can gave a huge effect as well. I was doing a barrel once and ibhad one rust day where the humidity must have wentbup or something, but that rust deeply etched my barrel. Only comeback was to completely start again - i didnt and i ended up with a satin sheen blue
    Donald

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Dunkley View Post
    Thanks. What you are saying is that all the hype on the US channels about which Nitric solution is best "is all smoke".
    Pretty much.

    There isn't a magic answer or miracle potion, Donald's below would work but use iron filings rather than nails, newer nails aren't pure iron.

    I've done hundreds with Ammonium Chloride, Mercury Chloride which has a host of risks and various combinations of salts and acids, Angiers book will give you hundreds of brews that will all work but its a long slow process I've just finished an 1892 Winchester rifle with 28 passes and that looks lovely now.

    Hot caustic blacking is a 30 minute process once the preps done, rust blacking is at least 12 hours over 10 days..... rust blacking does look nicer on older guns and is more resilient but a lot more work.
    A man can always use more alcohol, tobacco and firearms.

  7. #22
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    Black

    Quote Originally Posted by thisisdonald View Post
    I think the solution you are talking about is a mixture 50/50 nitric/hydrochloric and you dissolve black iron nails in it until they stop dissolving. You then filter it clean, paint it on and let it rust.
    You will get different recipes which will give different results.

    Its sounds to me like youre trying to find 'the best' recipe to fast track to bluing your barrels. In my opinion you should get some acid and fet bluing a few times before you start on your barrels. Theres more to the process than just the right recipe.

    Preperation is the absolute key. But ambient temperature and humidity can gave a huge effect as well. I was doing a barrel once and ibhad one rust day where the humidity must have wentbup or something, but that rust deeply etched my barrel. Only comeback was to completely start again - i didnt and i ended up with a satin sheen blue

    Partly true. I read that there are pitfalls and all I want to do is cut down the variables, so a tried and tested solution formula takes out one variable. it seems from your very helpful replies that there is not one. Not without Nitric.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  8. #23
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    The metal salts (Chlorides) are more significant than the acid in terms of the reaction, if you really want to play around with Nitric acid you can get it here

    https://www.chemicals.co.uk/nitric-acid

    You could also but a ready to use "proper" slow rust blue compound here which would start you off.

    https://www.blackleyandson.com/acata...or_Metals.html

    It is all in the pre and post treatments though

    Practice on a few scrap guns first
    A man can always use more alcohol, tobacco and firearms.

  9. #24
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    Thanks

    Thanks guys for all the sensible advice I now have all the info I need. I do realize it's a long road but I am keen to have a go. I of course do have a few scrap barrels.
    Thanks again.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  10. #25
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    Theres also far quicker cold blacking/rusting solutions takes around an hour with 7 paint on passes and cleanups, good enough for Purdeys and the like. Only downside is would have to buy gallons and prove responsible.
    All quality guns are soft soldered not brazed, they will come apart by 150 degrees hot blacking.

  11. #26
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    The brick acid method. Simple and effective methinks
    Pics tomorrow
    Last edited by deejayuu; 22-10-2017 at 09:24 PM.

  12. #27
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    Cheap browning solution.

    Ferric chloride 1 part
    Alcohol 8 parts
    Rainwater or de-ionised water 8 parts - all by weight.

    Apply a thin coat with a dampened sponge. Heat work to 37 degrees C in a closed container with steam, (I use a plastic drain pipe connected to a wall paper steamer) until a thin rust forms. Boil in water for fifteen minutes, brush off loose oxide, repeat until the desired finish is obtained.

    Ferric chloride is used for etching copper circuit boards, and may be bought on .
    "If it'aint broke, take it apart"

  13. #28
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    Acid

    Quote Originally Posted by deejayuu View Post
    The brick acid method. Simple and effective methinks
    Pics tomorrow

    I look forward to them.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Dunkley View Post
    I look forward to them.
    Hi Peter

    If you nip over to the Boinger bash this coming weekend you can look at a couple of examples I've fume blued.

    We're only 25 minutes further than Melbourne.


    All the best Mick

  15. #30
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    Blue

    Thanks. Lovely offer but I am busy most of the weekend.
    Thanks anyway.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

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