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Thread: LGV safety ..

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
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    Hull
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    LGV safety ..

    Just been out practicing with my Walther LGV Ultra competition and was getting very good results
    at 20 yards and at 30 yards must of shot 200 pellets then problems started,
    the safety wouldn't disengage every other shot, I had to redeploy the brake barell to fire the shot, Why would this be???

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    Nuneaton, Warwickshire
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    This is not an unknown fault on these rifles. A friend of mine had exactly the same, but then the gun would fire indiscriminately without the trigger being touched, so be careful. He took it back to the shop where he bought it from and they just exchanged it there and then for another one. I don't know what causes the fault or how to cure it.


    Neil
    Current airguns:- Steyr LG110: Steyr LP10: Air Arms HFT500: Weihrauch97 fully customised.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
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    Hollesley, near Woodbridge
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    2,796
    Quote Originally Posted by u.k.neil View Post
    But the gun would fire indiscriminately without the trigger being touched
    That is somewhat worrying
    Custom BSA S10 .22 PAX Phoenix Mk 2 .22 Custom Titan Manitou .22 (JB BP) HW77 .22 FWB Sport Mk1 .22 Sharp Ace .22 Crossman 600 .22 Berretta 92 .20 Desert Eagle .177

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2013
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    Sheffield
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    Are you sure its the safety ?

    Its more often than not a trigger that is not set up correctly.The non firing is the sears locked up ,recocking resets the trigger.Some of the LGV's had this fault which was a bad batch of sears supposedly.

    Try adjusting the front two trigger screws & the rear screw turned in clockwise a turn first (assuming its not all the way in, which in this case turn it anti clockwise).

    If it still persists polish up the first & second sear.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
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    Cambridge UK
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    This may help ... or not...
    When I had problems with setting my LGU trigger, which is, I believe, the same unit, I found the best way to get it 'almost right' was to strip the unit off the action and remove the side plate of the trigger and then set the adjusters while you can see the effect on the sears. I did notice that if the weight adjuster is set too high, adjuster spring virtually coil bound, that it was not possible to cock the sears.
    Maybe, just maybe, by setting the trigger to a better setting you will resolve the issues.
    Cheers, Phil
    As an afterthought, here are my notes from when I did my LGU ... rifle was s/h so I was starting with a s/h unit: hex key sizes given.

    LGU TRIGGER …MY NOTES
    First stage was very long. Not sure there was a second stage ? Weight quite high.
    Tried adjusting 1st stage (adjuster nearest muzzle, 1.5mm) .. failed. 2nd stage screw (centre adjuster, 1.5mm) virtually refused to move. Added a little weight (adjuster at rear of trigger, 2.5mm). After all this, the trigger would not fire at times. Decided to do a strip:
    Trigger unit removed from rifle, laid spring guide to left and two slot head screws removed. Lift top plate off carefully. The trigger weight grub screw and spring will exit towards you as the thread for the screw splits as the body shell separates. Collect spring and grub screw. It might be best to remove grub screw before splitting the body shell.
    Look out for the safety catch and its small ‘ball unit’ as they are loose in the housing. Trigger itself may come loose if the trigger pivot pin sticks in the housing side you remove. Easily put back but make sure the shim washers are in place. The two nuts that hold the trigger guard are either side of the trigger housing, simply fitted in locating holes. Do not lose them.
    On this trigger the 1st stage adjuster was a long way in and on checking the trigger movement the 1st stage was releasing the sear before the second stage second stage operated. I wound the 1st stage out and the 2nd stage in a turn or two until I could see and feel a distinct 2nd stage as the trigger was operated. This had to be done without the benefit of the trigger weight adjuster screw.
    Having done this, I reassembled the trigger unit. The spring guide is a simple slot fit on the left. Make sure the latch rod guide … the small tube with a slot in it, is in place. Care …the trigger guard nuts fit with a ‘corner’ downwards into the housing, get them wrong and the plates do not close. The safety ball unit … the little plastic cylinder with a ball bearing in an end, fits in a recess in the safety housing. The safety simply locates on the housing. Add the weight spring with the top hat facing outwards. Add top plate and ensure it meets evenly all around. It will most likely be necessary to push the weight spring top hat in off the grub screw threads in order to close the plates. Add the securing bolts. and wind in the grub screw, leaving about 3mm proud of the housing. I initially wound the grub screw in too far, almost flush … see below. Finish tightening the plate bolts.
    Replace trigger unit on rifle.
    On initial testing, the rifle would seemingly cock but not fire. This surprised me as I thought the 1st and 2nd stages were virtually spot on. In reality cocking action was locating on the final atb slot but failing to engage. I released the weight screw a full turn and it all worked OK … clear 1st and 2nd stages with a reduced 1st stage as well. I turned the weight out another turn so that about 2 – 3mm of grub screw was proud. Trigger was not too light.
    Moral … the pull weight screw can prevent the trigger cocking if adjusted too high a weight. Not surprising really as the spring acts on a trigger sear and if the spring is compressed too far to increase weight then there is no pivotal movement left in the sear and it cannot engage
    Last edited by Phil Russell; 19-11-2017 at 03:03 PM.

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    It'll just be the trigger not set up correctly Keith

    Actually, the trigger is slightly better if you remove the lower safety catch linkage as it rubs against one of the sears.

    Taking the trigger apart is the way to go, it's dead easy to do, but if you're not confident, drop me a line and arrange a time to pop into Doncaster Airgun Range and I'll show you how to do it ( and probably just do it there and then for you ).

    Brian



    Ok.... that photo came out much bigger than I expected The bottom linkage in the photo is the part that rubs - you can see the two marks where the spring rubs against the linkage and if you look carefully you can see on the pivot point that there's an area where the sear rubs against the bottom linkage. You can either file those areas down or what I do now is just remove the safety linkages.

    That won't be your problem though, your problem will be that the grubs screws aren't set up correctly. I doubt that it's an actual Fault with the gun, it's probably just that the trigger isn't set up correctly.
    Last edited by Brian.Samson; 20-11-2017 at 11:56 AM.

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