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Thread: Steaming a stock and stain problem...... Advice please

  1. #16
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    Thanks again for all the suggestions. I'll have another go over the weekend although I'm sure no water based stain is going to penetrate so I'll try oil based. The wood in the areas I'm talking about has gone so hard and dense, it's almost like the wood those women's trinket boxes are made from that you see now and again, I think they are made from Yew, rock hard. This is all very strange! The stock incidentally is a Uberti Buntline shoulder stock, I put the problem in this section as I know you collectors do up your stocks more than the firearm guys.
    Remember, it is the strongest character that God gives the most challenges.

  2. #17
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    Another suggestion to help get the stain into the wood and something I've done before is to wipe the stain into the wood using wirewool. It sounds like you are creating work by roughing up the surface you have spent ages smoothing off. But it has little impact and once the stain is on and dried, you are best smoothing the stock back up with fine scotchbrite. This is how we have done them and had fantastic results.
    Fozzy
    Last edited by fozzy45; 24-11-2017 at 04:23 PM.

  3. #18
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    Apr 2001
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    Quote Originally Posted by vbull View Post
    Thanks again for all the suggestions. I'll have another go over the weekend although I'm sure no water based stain is going to penetrate so I'll try oil based. The wood in the areas I'm talking about has gone so hard and dense, it's almost like the wood those women's trinket boxes are made from that you see now and again, I think they are made from Yew, rock hard. This is all very strange! The stock incidentally is a Uberti Buntline shoulder stock, I put the problem in this section as I know you collectors do up your stocks more than the firearm guys.
    The buntline stocks are very iffy wood, strip it and two pack it with tinted lacquer.

    Perfect in 60 mins.
    A man can always use more alcohol, tobacco and firearms.

  4. #19
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    Thanks Richard, I may have to although I really want to get this more or less looking like the grips on the revolver. Surely wood is wood so wood stain should eventually work but if not I will have to go with your suggestion although I'm not sure exactly what 2 pack tinted lacquer is, never used it.
    Remember, it is the strongest character that God gives the most challenges.

  5. #20
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    Two pack clear coat,used on cars etc,mixed two parts paint with one part activator and ten to thirty percent thinner.

    Flashes off in about a quarter of an hour and dry in around sixteen hours.

    Highly toxic, so make sure you wear the correct respirator.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by vbull View Post
    Thanks Richard, I may have to although I really want to get this more or less looking like the grips on the revolver. Surely wood is wood so wood stain should eventually work but if not I will have to go with your suggestion although I'm not sure exactly what 2 pack tinted lacquer is, never used it.
    Easiest way to exactly match the revolver grips is do them at the same time

    I use a walnut stain from a specialist furniture finish company mixed with their 2 pack lacquer, the whole lot is designed to work together and can be flatted and polished in 60 mins.

    Use an air fed mask though as isocyanide is bad for you.
    A man can always use more alcohol, tobacco and firearms.

  7. #22
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    Mar 2017
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    blackburn
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    my advise

    Quote Originally Posted by RichardH View Post
    Easiest way to exactly match the revolver grips is do them at the same time

    I use a walnut stain from a specialist furniture finish company mixed with their 2 pack lacquer, the whole lot is designed to work together and can be flatted and polished in 60 mins.

    Use an air fed mask though as isocyanide is bad for you.
    My advice, Do not try this at home. I strongly recommend that you let the experts deal with 2 pack paint, or lacquer. The vapour of this stuff sets like concrete in your lungs ! never mind the "cyanide" ? good luck, Al.

  8. #23
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    Jan 2015
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    Strip the stock and start again but not with water based stain.

  9. #24
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    Feb 2007
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    East Sussex, Nr Rye
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    If you steam again don't over do it as it will kill the wood. That hard spot may well not change by steam alone without permanently damaging it.

    If the water based won't get in then something is stopping it. Some oil? Could be wood hardener or something too. Try some other potions like nail varnish remover. Every cleaning product is going to give the wood a hard time, so stop before real damage. If nothing works then you will have to surface paint/varnish.

    I used a water based varnish on the surface of a tatty Webley Vulcan the other day. Came out fine but will never win any prizes. Sometimes there isn't more that can be done.

  10. #25
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    Muskett, what do you mean exactly by "Kill the wood" ? I have a feeling that's what I've done with the over steaming as like I've already said, the wood has gone rock hard in a couple of area's, is this killed wood ?
    Remember, it is the strongest character that God gives the most challenges.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
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    East Sussex, Nr Rye
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    If the wood is hard its not killed. What I mean by it is that the wood fibres are so torn about and bereft of integrity that they don't hold any strength and crumble. I just like to think of wood as living and plastics and metal dead. Wood needs oils and a touch of moisture to "live".

    Wire wool down once more. Use a spirit based dye. If that doesn't work use a surface vanish. Get a few colours and mix them up a bit as off the shelf colours are too "samey and strong". Light coats done several times, which you can add more colour to get to something you like. Lint free cloths always for prep work, or even application. Leave over night between coats and don't force dry.

    The things I have done are more trial and error. Even professionals find some wood testing if not exasperating.

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