Straight Gripped Webley Senior Parts & Problems

[wilkinww1]

Hi Chaps,

I’ve recently purchased one of the above which is not cocking. Having disassembled it the sear seems fine but I have discovered that the piston ring is fairly loosely fitting and, perhaps more seriously, the mainspring had sheered one coil off the end. Do you think this would prevent the pistol from cocking?

I wondered if someone could advise me where I could buy a mainspring and piston ring for this type of pistol. I noted that Proteck supplies have springs for sale but I wasn't sure if these would be correct for this pistol. Therein, will the mainsprings for the other pre-war Webleys (i.e. Mk 1 and/or Mk II target model) fit the straight gripped senior.

I’m hoping the replacement of these bits may fix the issue – However, have other owners of this type of pistol had similar cocking issues (and if so how did you fix it!).

Thanks
Olly

[fozzy45]

Have your replaced the sear back in the right Way with the highest point facing the muzzle. ?
Fozzy

[Garvin]

Hi Chaps,

I’ve recently purchased one of the above which is not cocking. Having disassembled it the sear seems fine but I have discovered that the piston ring is fairly loosely fitting and, perhaps more seriously, the mainspring had sheered one coil off the end. Do you think this would prevent the pistol from cocking?

I wondered if someone could advise me where I could buy a mainspring and piston ring for this type of pistol. I noted that Proteck supplies have springs for sale but I wasn't sure if these would be correct for this pistol. Therein, will the mainsprings for the other pre-war Webleys (i.e. Mk 1 and/or Mk II target model) fit the straight gripped senior.

I’m hoping the replacement of these bits may fix the issue – However, have other owners of this type of pistol had similar cocking issues (and if so how did you fix it!).

Thanks
Olly

Olly the main reason these Webleys fail to cock (so common it has its own acronym - ftc) is that the cocking links stretch. A fix is to retain them with offset pins that pull the links together. Don't know if this is your problem.

[ggggr]

Hi Chaps,

I’ve recently purchased one of the above which is not cocking. Having disassembled it the sear seems fine but I have discovered that the piston ring is fairly loosely fitting and, perhaps more seriously, the mainspring had sheered one coil off the end. Do you think this would prevent the pistol from cocking?

I wondered if someone could advise me where I could buy a mainspring and piston ring for this type of pistol. I noted that Proteck supplies have springs for sale but I wasn't sure if these would be correct for this pistol. Therein, will the mainsprings for the other pre-war Webleys (i.e. Mk 1 and/or Mk II target model) fit the straight gripped senior.

I’m hoping the replacement of these bits may fix the issue – However, have other owners of this type of pistol had similar cocking issues (and if so how did you fix it!).

Thanks
Olly

Ok-here we go (again)---------Protek, nibbs or Chambers should have the piston ring and a mainspring. I think most of the mainsprings now are a generic thing rather than being different like the originals were for different models.
Right--lets sort the cocking problem out.Have a look for elongated holes on the linkages and look at whether the "cocking bump" on the pistol is worn or not. Take the barrel and guide off the pistol and remove the mainspring. Then move the piston back with a screwdriver or something to see whether the sear engages with the piston. If it does, use a wooden dowel or similar and put it into the piston and push quite hard and see if the piston/sear holds. If it doesn't then the sear or the ring (not the phosphor bronze piston ring) on the piston it engages on is worn.
If the gun passes that test, then assemble the gun without the mainspring and see if the gun cocks. If it does then try it again with the mainspring back in. If the gun feels like it will almost cock, but doesn't quite, then the chances are the cocking shoe is worn, (WHICH IS THE FAULT THAT I HAVE COME ACROSS MOST--as I tend to play with olde crappy worn out pistols). You can usually reverse the shoe but they never feel right/smooth and it is time to get a new one, which should be good for 30 + years.
I hope this helps.

[wilkinww1]

Thanks all for replies. I've had another play with the pistol today (forearmed with the suggestions on here) and, as indicated, the cocking link/shoe is the culprit. So I'm now trying to track a replacement down - The version on the pistol is the first pattern linkage (as per p. 61 of Bruce's book) - Is it possible to get hold of replacements. I see on the various websites (Knibbs etc) that the later version is attainable.

Thanks again for the assistance.

Best

Olly

[Mark D]

The piston 'ring' on this is phosphorus bronze and should be fairly loose, as it works like a combustion engine piston ring. I have not seen a worn out one, as long as it's not damaged it should be fine.

e**y may yield a cocking link shoe, if you don't get one from a member here

[wilkinww1]

Cheer Mark,

Re the ring - You are quite right. When I looked at it, it didn't seem worn and when I reassembled the pistol today I could see the ring was nicely fitted when in the cylinder itself. So that was fine; my lack of knowledge showing there!

I will keep an eye out on said auction site - However, if any members can assist I would be much obliged.

Olly

[ggggr]

Thanks all for replies. I've had another play with the pistol today (forearmed with the suggestions on here) and, as indicated, the cocking link/shoe is the culprit. So I'm now trying to track a replacement down - The version on the pistol is the first pattern linkage (as per p. 61 of Bruce's book) - Is it possible to get hold of replacements. I see on the various websites (Knibbs etc) that the later version is attainable.

Thanks again for the assistance.

Best

Olly

I assume you have had no luck tracking one of these down? If you can find a good welder you should be able to get the shoe bit of the link built up on the front edge. You do need someone who knows their stuff. Maybe one of the resident welding gurus could advise re type of welding to use?