HW100 silencer removal

[SpeedTripleR]

Hi all,

I have just got a new Weihrauch HW100 S and today attempted to remove the silencer to aid with cleaning the new barrel.
The silencer doesn’t seem to want to come off as I’d have expected it to. I can take the silencer apart, but this still leaves a cone shape on the end of the barrel.
I’ve tried heating it up but it won’t budge at all and I don’t want to force it as it’s going to put strain on the barrel.

Any HW100 owners experienced this and if so, how did you remove it?

I can’t think of any logical reason for Weihrauch to glue the silencer onto the barrel.

Cheers

[john bailey]

Hi, as far as I know they just unscrew, if it's tight gent a firm grip and a quick twist and it should come undone.

ATB
John

[SpeedTripleR]

I tried that while it just had the cone on the end of the barrel, thinking it’d just need a firm grip. After slicing my hand to bits on the exposed thread, I gave up.
I’ve tried using a rag over the end but it will not budge. I may try using mole grips but don’t want to damage the barrel.
On all my previous guns they’ve been hand tight and just unscrew.

[Edtwozeronine]

Mine just screws right off.

[SpeedTripleR]

Mine just screws right off.

Thanks for the reply. Didn’t think it was right. I’ll have to get the gun shop to take a look then. If they damage it, they can replace it.

[angrybear]

If you disassemble the mod so only the cone is left you can carefully drill a couple of holes in it to locate a peg spanner, (if you have a peg spanner)) once reassembled the holes will be inside & hidden from view.
Another thing to try is a pair of "water pump pliers" or even a "stilson wrench" with a leather belt or similar to protect the mod from damage.

What sort of heat did you use ? could be it just wasn't hot enough to melt whatever thread-lock has been used on it, if you can hold it without gloves it's probably not hot enough

[Archer50]

Thanks for the reply. Didn’t think it was right. I’ll have to get the gun shop to take a look then. If they damage it, they can replace it.

Since it's a new gun, I think that's the best plan.

I have never had, or known anyone else to have a serious problem getting the mod off.

Alan

[SpeedTripleR]

I didn’t go to mad with the heat, but it was getting to the point of being too hot to hold. I don’t fancy drilling it though as the shop won’t touch it after that.
The gun is only a couple of days old so I think I’ll get the shop to sort it out. It’s their problem then if it gets damaged.

Thanks for the advice Mick

[angrybear]

I didn’t go to mad with the heat, but it was getting to the point of being too hot to hold. I don’t fancy drilling it though as the shop won’t touch it after that.
The gun is only a couple of days old so I think I’ll get the shop to sort it out. It’s their problem then if it gets damaged.

Thanks for the advice Mick

Sorry I missed that it was new, definitely back to the shop.

[Scubashot]

I would certainly ask the RFD to remove it for you rather than risk damaging it yourself.

When I first tried to remove it on my 100S all that happened was the barrel turned with the moderator. This is apparently quite a common problem with a simple solution.
You have to remove the air cylinder to expose a small grub screw in the action that locks the barrel in place. It is good practice to loosen this sufficiently to remove the barrel and remove any excess oil before refitting and tightening the grubscrew.

The barrel should be refitted with the serial number on the l/h side at the 3 o'clock/9 o'clock position, although some people like to index their barrel by rotating it and marking the point of impact when aiming at a single fixed point. They may then choose to fit the barrel in the position that shoots at the 12 o'clock point of impact.