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Thread: How do I get a start on the spring guide 's threaded plug on a Premier Mk2?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Pendlebury, Greater Manchester
    Posts
    2,639

    How do I get a start on the spring guide 's threaded plug on a Premier Mk2?

    I've got a gorgeous example that looks to have been a sleeper.

    As it's 43+ years old, I thought a clean out and re-lube with modern
    moly grease would be a good idea.

    How on earth do I get into the cylinder?

    The plug looks solid. What tools can I use to open up without scratching]
    the immaculate finish?


    Thanks in advance for any help on this.
    The Mayor: Intent? How did you establish that?
    Harry Callahan: When a man is chasing a woman through an alley with a butcher’s knife and a hard-on, I figure he isn’t out collecting for the Red Cross.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Ringwood
    Posts
    4,934
    If the MK2 is the same as earlier models don't go in from the end with what looks like a large screwdriver slot, you go in from the front of the cylinder. I'm guessing you knew this ?
    Remember, it is the strongest character that God gives the most challenges.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Pendlebury, Greater Manchester
    Posts
    2,639
    Yep. I know which end to remove just not how to do it!
    The Mayor: Intent? How did you establish that?
    Harry Callahan: When a man is chasing a woman through an alley with a butcher’s knife and a hard-on, I figure he isn’t out collecting for the Red Cross.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Aug 2000
    Location
    Crawley, West Sussex, UK
    Posts
    4,661
    You can try the following at your own risk : remove the pivot screw, separate the barrel from the action, set it at 90 degs to the action, engage the barrel forend pivot "block" in the cylinder plug slot and using the barrel as a lever (being gentle with the amount of force applied) unscrew anti clockwise.

    Or ideally, make a tool up to do similar.

    Vic Thompson.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2000
    Location
    Basingstoke, U.K.
    Posts
    6,728
    I encountered just such a problem and ended up sending the pistol to Webley for unscrewing - not possible now of course sadly.

    John

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Pendlebury, Greater Manchester
    Posts
    2,639

    I've given up

    I'm not risking damaging the finish.

    I've lubed all linkages and sprayed some moly grease into the cylinder via the cocking slot.

    I'll leave it standing on its grip to let the lubes migrate and then fire off any excess.

    It'll probably only have a couple of hundred pellets through it in a year.
    The Mayor: Intent? How did you establish that?
    Harry Callahan: When a man is chasing a woman through an alley with a butcher’s knife and a hard-on, I figure he isn’t out collecting for the Red Cross.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2004
    Location
    Pendlebury, Greater Manchester
    Posts
    2,639

    What a stonking little pistol

    I took the Premier to the club this morning and what a revelation.

    What a sweet performer. Easy to cock and the trigger is pretty damn good.
    The wide-ish blade helps. Lovely smooth firing cycle as well with a nice little
    nudge into the palm from the backward moving piston. I managed to put in
    some nice groups off-hand at 10m.

    Most impressive for a pistol made in the same year as the three day week!
    The Mayor: Intent? How did you establish that?
    Harry Callahan: When a man is chasing a woman through an alley with a butcher’s knife and a hard-on, I figure he isn’t out collecting for the Red Cross.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2012
    Location
    walsall
    Posts
    386
    Hi, W & S workbench hands had a special tool for removal of the front plug. It was a piece of 1/2" sq steel very sharply bent through 90 degrees like an allen key, long leg about 6 " maybe a bit longer; short leg no more than 1". The short leg was machined down to be a snug fit in the plug slot to avoid damage and if needed you could give it a really hefty blow with a hammer and get no damage; the ''offered'' method by the company is indeed as has been suggested, remove the barrel, turn it around, put the pivot section back in the slot and use the barrel as a lever; ONLY TRY THIS WITH HAND PRESSURE, YOU COULD BEND THE BARREL or WORSE BEND THE PIVOT BLOCK. [I have seen the latter on too many occasions] when the barrel has been hit or an extension tube is used. The end plugs were machine fitted and very tightly too, and a blow/shock proves more successful than a steady pressure.
    Hope this helps.
    Cheers
    abellringer

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cambridge
    Posts
    747
    Quote Originally Posted by abellringer View Post
    Hi, W & S workbench hands had a special tool for removal of the front plug. It was a piece of 1/2" sq steel very sharply bent through 90 degrees like an allen key, long leg about 6 " maybe a bit longer; short leg no more than 1". The short leg was machined down to be a snug fit in the plug slot to avoid damage and if needed you could give it a really hefty blow with a hammer and get no damage; the ''offered'' method by the company is indeed as has been suggested, remove the barrel, turn it around, put the pivot section back in the slot and use the barrel as a lever; ONLY TRY THIS WITH HAND PRESSURE, YOU COULD BEND THE BARREL or WORSE BEND THE PIVOT BLOCK. [I have seen the latter on too many occasions] when the barrel has been hit or an extension tube is used. The end plugs were machine fitted and very tightly too, and a blow/shock proves more successful than a steady pressure.
    Hope this helps.
    Cheers
    abellringer
    Try the flat jaw of open ended spanner that fits the pivot slot, soak first with plus gas!

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