Threadlock, loctite, stud grade - different types?

[CuppaT]

Evenin' all
Are there different types / strengths of this? If so can someone put some clarity on the matter please?

I need something for the TP screw, and hammer rail on an air arms. Any brands , types preferred?

[martyn]

I use loctite 242 on tp adjuster. Shouldn't need anything on hammer rail.

[CuppaT]

Cheers. Will stay with threadlock blue then.

Why do AA loctite the hammer rails in production?

[rhyslightnin]

Order of strength:
Purple, no heat to release. Light (good for trigger adjustments & tiny screws)
Blue, no heat to release. Medium (suitable for most stuff)
Red, some heat required. Strong
Green, plenty of heat required. Extra strong (retaining compound, for stuff you really don't want to move!!)

[lensman57]

Evenin' all
Are there different types / strengths of this? If so can someone put some clarity on the matter please?

I need something for the TP screw, and hammer rail on an air arms. Any brands , types preferred?

In addition, some of the retaining compounds, ultra high strength types need correct tolerances to work properly. Read the instruction sheet from Loctite.

A.G

[bighit]

one we used on the diesel driven compressors at my old job was this one
https://clarik.co.uk/store/force-bra...ml-bottle-x-1/

we used it on studs that were on the crankcase and they went through the crankcase . they started to use it as they claimed that the loctite they bought did not seal the threads and some came back with leak due to the loctite. with the one above there was no leaks .

[DedIdick]

Yup good stuff, we use it on Nanni engines on the studs holding on the heat exchangers, stops the water tracking along the studs threads.

[angrybear]

IIRC Loctite recommend low strength for up to 4mm, med 5-10mm, & strong only above 10mm threads.

[bighit]

Yup good stuff, we use it on Nanni engines on the studs holding on the heat exchangers, stops the water tracking along the studs threads.

i have a tube of it in the tool box . i should have got a few more before i left

they were getting loads of leaks on the engines at the crankcase where the plates for accessories would have been fitted on other applications that the engine was used for .

so people tried plumbers tape but that did not stop the studs coming out if the plate was removed for any reason. the Force stuff solved that if it was applied correctly ( one guy did not clean the oil off the threads in the crankcase ,then there was a leak and the guy then tried to tighten the plate nuts and stripped the threads .ended up that the compressor had to come back from the rig . he was a contractor and got binned when back onshore due to it as it was a major overhaul job ).