may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
Does anyone know of a swap for the breech pin on these rifles? Something with a nut on the other end. Anything from Weihrauch or Haenel or Diana?
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I can't answer that question but I can tell you that the sloppy lock up caused by not cocking at the right angle is considered a myth by lots of people .
You can tighten it up shims and a new bar can help.
I made a little piece that helps to put it all together much easier as well ,after struggling for about an hour .
You can't say muntjack without saying mmmmm
Certainly no myth. I'm a died in the wool Hawk fan (with no illusions about its short-comings), and the only two of mine which don't display any slop are two that have seen very little use.Originally Posted by dayglowfroggy
As long as you use them with open sights, it makes no difference.
The South of England has 2 good things, the M1 and the A1. Both will take you to Yorkshire.
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Been there done that
I have changed the hinge pin in my Vulcan. I bought a hw hinge pin of the bay of evil.
You have to trim the stock on both sides for the bolt head and nut. I also threaded the jaw on the right hand side and had to open up the left hand
Jaw so the pin would slide in and the breach block and jobs a good un
may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
Thanks, I probably have one somewhere ...
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[QUOTE=Hsing-ee;7402161]Does anyone know of a swap for the breech pin on these rifles? Something with a nut on the other end. Anything from Weihrauch or Haenel or Diana?[/QUOT
If you do that it' ll pull the jaws apart as the axis point in not central on those models -
Looking for TO-6 Trigger unit unmessed with or T0-6 kit for 34
may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
[QUOTE=PCPShooter;7417148]I don't understand. How can it pull the jaws apart when the force of the fastener is squeezing them together? Wedgie claims to have done the conversion with an HW bolt, and it was a common tweak on the Vulcan Mk 2 and 3 to stop the dreaded 'wobbly webley' syndrome.
part time super hero and seeker of justice
Unless you are using a long bolt with the head sticking out on one side and the nut on the other, then it makes more sense to me to use the bolt off an xocet or omega https://www.gunspares.co.uk/products/24558/Xocet/ B1286 part number and get a threaded top hat insert made/ fitted for the right hand jaw and the left one recessed. At least then you are only messing with the jaws and not having to mess with the breech block? If you dont mind bits sticking out, then a 1/4 inch diameter shanked bolt and nut would do--------but you would have to take a scoop out of the stock for where they stick out.
Cooler than Mace Windu with a FRO, walking into Members Only and saying "Bitches, be cool"
may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
Just found a bolt/nut from a BSA Mercury-S which might work, either with a collared nut or by countersinking the breech jaws a bit. It is a loose fit in a HW35 breech block, so the HW bolts must be 7mm not 6.35 mm, and would need the breech block to be drilled....
The BSA bolt is too short so I've ordered a shouldered bolt off the evil bae...
Last edited by Hsing-ee; 20-01-2018 at 01:12 AM.
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Bowket used to include a bolt in his 12 ft/lbs Meteor conversions (£23.50 in the early 1980s) and also offer them fro Wobleys
. He copied the HW system by threading one jaw and boring out the other. The bolt he made had a 7mm shank and the breech block/barrel bored out to suit. The HW system with locking screw or nut is the way to go. An unlocked bolt can turn around in use giving a cam effect which alters zero. I know this to be factual as I used one for many a year. Wish I still had it.
may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
Blimey this is getting complicated. Maybe it would be better to just squeeze the breech jaws in a vice every so often!
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Or use shims
Bolts don’t work on non central axis pivots
IMO a rifle with that conversion becomes valued at worth of other spare parts only-
Looking for TO-6 Trigger unit unmessed with or T0-6 kit for 34
may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
It's a Hawk Mk 3 so its only worth a couple of Kit-Kats anyway.
I still don't understand why a non-central axis pivot cannot be fitted with bolt, can you explain?
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If Steve pope said it can't be done, who are we to argue.
Hw77+7
may also be employed in conjunction with a drawn reciprocation dingle arm, to reduce sinusoidal repleneration
I'm sure he didn't say 'it can't be done' because as an engineer he knows that it can, I just want to know why it is a bad idea. I cannot see how it would pull the jaws apart. Can anyone explain?
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