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Thread: TX200 - Mk2 piston into a Mk3?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    if it's not the length of the guides it may well be the centralisation of the rod in the piston - is it centred correctly ? Also is the rear guide "brim" OD the full size of the main tube of the gun, thereby preventing it from moving off centre ? Also look at the trigger block - does the lead into the hole in the trigger block through which the piston rod passes show any signs of being hit / metal contact ?
    Would have to be a mile out to prevent cocking

    also check any "power washers"on the rear guide are of the correct diameter to go inside the bore of the piston .

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickG View Post
    Would have to be a mile out to prevent cocking .
    depends on the profile of the piston rod mushroom, but yeah, would have to be quite bad...
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  3. #33
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    The end of the original mk2 rod is a different shape to the mk 3 , though the latch sears are identical , both profiles work fine in the mk 3 .

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickG View Post
    The end of the original mk2 rod is a different shape to the mk 3 , though the latch sears are identical , both profiles work fine in the mk 3 .
    yup, and WD and ISP are different profiles again... I have had this problem once, so not making it up... rod was way pi55ed in the piston; bore of guide was loose enough to allow it to not centralise, got kinda stuck on the way into the trigger housing. It;s not exactly likely, but seeing as we seem to have exhausted all the sensible causes...
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickG View Post
    does the trigger latch outside of the gun when tried as i suggested ?
    Many thanks - Ill give that a try.

    Cheers

    Steve

  6. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by Shed tuner View Post
    if it's not the length of the guides it may well be the centralisation of the rod in the piston - is it centred correctly ? Also is the rear guide "brim" OD the full size of the main tube of the gun, thereby preventing it from moving off centre ? Also look at the trigger block - does the lead into the hole in the trigger block through which the piston rod passes show any signs of being hit / metal contact ?
    The Brim OD of the guide is a V snug fit in the main tube - in fact it was oversized as supplied, and I reduced the Dia to give me a snug fit - thinking I didn't want any lateral movement.

    I haven't noticed any witness marks on the trigger block - however I will re-strip and investigate.

    Many thanks

    Steve

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Weasle View Post
    The Brim OD of the guide is a V snug fit in the main tube - in fact it was oversized as supplied, and I reduced the Dia to give me a snug fit - thinking I didn't want any lateral movement.

    I haven't noticed any witness marks on the trigger block - however I will re-strip and investigate.

    Many thanks

    Steve
    Where did you buy the mk2 spec spring ? Is it a standard mk2 spring or an after market one (Titan or similar) ?

    I think its something simple like being coil bound.

    When its in bits, also worth checking for any wear / damage to the cocking shoe.
    B.A.S.C. member

  8. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickG View Post
    The end of the original mk2 rod is a different shape to the mk 3 , though the latch sears are identical , both profiles work fine in the mk 3 .
    Was just looking at my spare pistons and found a MarkII stroke piston with the MarkIII profile. I think it came from a MarkII in the 13,000 range of serial numbers.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by robs5230 View Post
    Where did you buy the mk2 spec spring ? Is it a standard mk2 spring or an after market one (Titan or similar) ?

    I think its something simple like being coil bound.

    When its in bits, also worth checking for any wear / damage to the cocking shoe.
    It was bought as a standard Mk2 spring from Mr Knibbs.

    Ill be doing a further stripdown over the weekend.

    Many thanks for all of the advise/comments so far.

    Cheers

    Steve

  10. #40
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    Just re stripped the TX and removed a slip washer that I had put under the top hat......It now cocks.

    With a Mk 3 V-Mach spring it makes 8.5 f lbs, with the Mk2 Knibbs spring, its at 11.2 f lbs.

    New seal, so will put a tin thru it and recheck.

    Many Thanks for all of your comments...shame I made a school boy error

    Cheers

    Steve

  11. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by Weasle View Post
    Just re stripped the TX and removed a slip washer that I had put under the top hat......It now cocks.

    With a Mk 3 V-Mach spring it makes 8.5 f lbs, with the Mk2 Knibbs spring, its at 11.2 f lbs.

    New seal, so will put a tin thru it and recheck.

    Many Thanks for all of your comments...shame I made a school boy error

    Cheers

    Steve
    If it was under the top hat /piston weight then it was coil binding, unusual in the mk2 as the stroke is a lot shorter than the mk 3, if it was under the spring guide then it was the spring guide base not entering the piston bore .

  12. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by NickG View Post
    If it was under the top hat /piston weight then it was coil binding, unusual in the mk2 as the stroke is a lot shorter than the mk 3, if it was under the spring guide then it was the spring guide base not entering the piston bore .
    It was under the top hat - about a 3mm slip washer - now time for testing and getting the seal bedded in.

    Many thanks for your assistance.

    Steve

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