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Thread: TX200 MKII troubles

  1. #1
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    TX200 MKII troubles

    I was wondering if someone may be able to help with a problem I have with my TX200 MKII. Basically I can cock the rifle but when I pull the trigger, nothing! I have to recock the rifle to be able to fire it, it does this regularly and is very annoying. What do you fine folks think the problem could be? Am I just being a cack handed fool and not cocking it properly? ( I'm right handed but shoot left handed and find it a bit of a pain in the arse if I'm honest). Thank you in advance for any advice you may be able to give.
    Sometimes I sits and thinks, but mostly I just sits.

  2. #2
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    When you cock it make sure the safety has engaged, sometimes needs a bit of jolt to engage the safety and properly seat the piston on the latch, if that doesn't work, take it apart and check the trigger assembly over,
    Very easy to work on the tx200, google for videos
    Jim

  3. #3
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    My suggestion would be that the trigger needs de gunking at the very least and maybe adjusting.
    the factory lube does go very hard over the years and stops the trigger unit and safety working properly.

    Easy enough to remove the trigger block and get the whole affair in some good degreaser. Then relube with some light oil.

    I'd also consider replacing the trigger weight spring. They go quite limp over time and change the way the trigger works.

    As its a MK2 there may also be some wear to the cocking shoe. A small amount of wear will prevent the piston going back as far as it needs to and latching on the trigger sears.

    A stripdown is in order.
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  4. #4
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    Good points up above.

    In the meantime, pay attention to your technique and make sure your cocking action is positive and firm.

    A drop or two of light oil on the safety catch is always a good idea on these.

    Have you had the rifle from new, ie do you know its history and whether it has had anything modded internally?
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  5. #5
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    Thank you for the very helpful replies, @TonyL I bought the rifle used from allsports of Gloucester and had it shipped to my local RFD so don't know the history I'm afraid. I'll pay closer attention to how I'm cocking it and if that doesn't solve it I guess it's a strip down, I'm a bit daunted by that as I've never had to strip down a springer before!
    Sometimes I sits and thinks, but mostly I just sits.

  6. #6
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    Don't panic ..
    I have seen this a couple of times and it was because the rifle was 'cocked' but not far enough to activate the sears properly ... sometimes it sounded cocked as it went over the abt. Maybe you did not 'yank' the lever hard enough to get the safety to engage?
    I have always thought this a weak part of the engineering as you should not need to yank on the lever.
    A solution I found was :
    1. had this problem with mine. found it was the piston and spring guide touching removed half a mill from top of guide and it cocks as easy as you like now
    So maybe worth checking.

    Also note that the end flange on the spring guide needs to be no more than 2.8mm thick or it impedes the piston rod engaging on the sears. Maybe a previous owner has had a fiddle / added extra parts?
    Also, assuming you are not getting spring bound.
    Good luck
    Cheers, Phil

  7. #7
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    I've had a partially seized safety cause the same issue before.
    From all the good suggestions above I'm sure the answer is here somewhere. When they are set up properly there will be no 'yank' required to engage the trigger. It will happen fairly easily and 100% of the time. Keep at it!

  8. #8
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    Yanking hard on the underlever at the end of the travel will bend the cocking arm bracket where it attaches to the action. Far better to directly resolve the reason for non cocking
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by robs5230 View Post
    Yanking hard on the underlever at the end of the travel will bend the cocking arm bracket where it attaches to the action. Far better to directly resolve the reason for non cocking
    +1
    Riving the lever back isn't the solution.
    Get trigger block out, degrease and oil trigger mech lightly, is the first thing I would do.
    Easy to do, costs are limited to degrease agent and some light oil and it is easy and quick to do.
    If that doesn't solve it - start investigating further.
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by robs5230 View Post
    Yanking hard on the underlever at the end of the travel will bend the cocking arm bracket where it attaches to the action. Far better to directly resolve the reason for non cocking
    +2 almost certain a trigger / safety degrease required
    Always looking for any cheap, interesting, knackered "project" guns. Thanks, JB.

  11. #11
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    I fully agree that pulling hard on the ul at the end of the stroke should not be necessary but I well remember,a few years ago, that it was accepted as part of the TX200 and advice to do so was freely and sincerely given. I remember questioning this at the time but was informed that 'that is how TX200s are'. I never accepted the advice, especially as I had shot TX200s that did not present the 'pull hard' syndrome. It always struck me as poor engineering ... most likely lax tolerances.
    I wonder if recently made models are better.
    Cheers, Phil

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Russell View Post
    I fully agree that pulling hard on the ul at the end of the stroke should not be necessary but I well remember,a few years ago, that it was accepted as part of the TX200 and advice to do so was freely and sincerely given. I remember questioning this at the time but was informed that 'that is how TX200s are'. I never accepted the advice, especially as I had shot TX200s that did not present the 'pull hard' syndrome. It always struck me as poor engineering ... most likely lax tolerances.
    I wonder if recently made models are better.
    Cheers, Phil
    My last mk3 which was an early HC with the rounded underlever catch was bought secondhand some years ago and I was informed by the seller that it needed a good yank to get the safety to engage. The underlever didnt quite return properly. On inspection the jaws at the end of the underlever were bent due to the ham fisted user.
    What it needed was a good de gunk and the trigger setting correctly.

    How many times have you heard "they all do that" ?
    Air rifles, secondhand cars, etc etc. Usually said when there's an apparent fault that the owner hasn't rectified.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by robs5230 View Post
    My last mk3 which was an early HC with the rounded underlever catch was bought secondhand some years ago and I was informed by the seller that it needed a good yank to get the safety to engage. The underlever didnt quite return properly. On inspection the jaws at the end of the underlever were bent due to the ham fisted user.
    What it needed was a good de gunk and the trigger setting correctly.

    How many times have you heard "they all do that" ?
    Air rifles, secondhand cars, etc etc. Usually said when there's an apparent fault that the owner hasn't rectified.
    Coil bound may be? Spring might be a coil to long.

  14. #14
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    Thank you for the help so far fine folks. I think I may go down the route of having the rifle fettled and tuned, that being said I don't really feel confident doing it myself so is there a shop/company I can send it to for the work to be done? I'd also like my HW95K tuned so may as well send them both off and kill two birds with one stone.
    Sometimes I sits and thinks, but mostly I just sits.

  15. #15
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    Well I've been having a play with the TX and it seems it was just my cack handedness causing the problem, after a while practicing I'm not getting any problems at all so all's fine and dandy. Thank you for all the helpful replies.
    Sometimes I sits and thinks, but mostly I just sits.

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