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Thread: Swop barrel on a HW breakbarrel

  1. #1
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    Sep 2014
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    Swop barrel on a HW breakbarrel

    Hi,

    Have anyone done this? Is it difficult and are special tools/a new pin necessary?

    Best regards

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
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    Batley
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    Its a really simple job bud, just a posi drive and flat head screw driver needed but make sure the flat head has a big wide end lol pthwr wise you risk chewing the breech bolt up.
    Also the power will alter up or down and will need to be re set.

  3. #3
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    I would also have some spare shims ready. I replace the shims one side at a time (lubed) but no matter how careful you are its easy to damage one, especially when you havent got a spare, and once damaged they are scrap.

  4. #4
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    This is interesting as the replies cover replacing the barrel / breech block as a unit. Whenever I see a 'barrel replacement' post I automatically think of just replacing the barrel proper i.e. the tube the pellet goes down, not including the breech block into which the barrel is fixed.
    I must assume, therefore that if someone wished to swap calibre from, say, .177 to .22 on a break barrel the job would just entail swapping the barrel/breech block plus, most likely, an enlargement of the transfer port. Maybe an adjustment to the mainspring as well.
    Cheers, Phil

  5. #5
    Murphy is offline Cooee! Chase me you naughty boys!
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Russell View Post
    I must assume, therefore that if someone wished to swap calibre from, say, .177 to .22 on a break barrel the job would just entail swapping the barrel/breech block plus, most likely, an enlargement of the transfer port. Maybe an adjustment to the mainspring as well.
    Cheers, Phil
    Also removing and reattaching the cocking arm.
    Master Debater

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Russell View Post
    This is interesting as the replies cover replacing the barrel / breech block as a unit. Whenever I see a 'barrel replacement' post I automatically think of just replacing the barrel proper i.e. the tube the pellet goes down, not including the breech block into which the barrel is fixed.
    I must assume, therefore that if someone wished to swap calibre from, say, .177 to .22 on a break barrel the job would just entail swapping the barrel/breech block plus, most likely, an enlargement of the transfer port. Maybe an adjustment to the mainspring as well.
    Cheers, Phil
    As the .22 is supposed to be more air efficient ,i would think one would not have to enlarge the transfer port (in either .177 to .22 or visa versa) but certainly an adjustment of the mainspring.
    1 Rapid+sentinal n/v, 1 HW100+ Mamba lite

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Murphy View Post
    Also removing and reattaching the cocking arm.
    ah, yes ... I wondered where I had gone wrong!
    Cheers, Phil

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Russell View Post
    This is interesting as the replies cover replacing the barrel / breech block as a unit. Whenever I see a 'barrel replacement' post I automatically think of just replacing the barrel proper i.e. the tube the pellet goes down, not including the breech block into which the barrel is fixed.
    I must assume, therefore that if someone wished to swap calibre from, say, .177 to .22 on a break barrel the job would just entail swapping the barrel/breech block plus, most likely, an enlargement of the transfer port. Maybe an adjustment to the mainspring as well.
    Cheers, Phil
    I wouldn't even touch the transfer port.
    Mainsprings are the same for whichever calibre air rifle. Well it is with these German springers, 9 times out of 10 changing barrels shouldn't put the rifle over the limit.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by KarlSwe View Post
    Hi,

    Have anyone done this? Is it difficult and are special tools/a new pin necessary?

    Best regards

    Hi,

    some guys are loosing the OP here.
    So my 2-Cents.

    Changing barrels on a HW-airgun is most likely done by simple exchange meaning a (new) barrel including the breech-block.
    To my understanding changing just the barrel itself taking it out of the breech-block is quite unusual and difficult.

    You may change complete barrels very easily between HW50 and 50s (as long as they have the newer 26mm system).
    HW35 only fit another HW35, nothing else.
    You may deliberately change barrels between HW80, 85, 90, 95, 98.

    Using the old pin and nut (if undamaged) is standard. Take care of the washers. Some greasing of the pin with MoS2 is mandatory.
    If you are lighthanded changing of barrel and still using the old shims - if undamaged - is standard behaviour too.
    If you find any damage / galling on the breech fork, the breech block or the shims - replace the shims and ensure a proper MoS2-grease lube.

    Hope this helps.
    ATB
    Andy

    PS:
    To ensure proper lock-up of the barrel in the breech I remove the wedge with the spring from the breech block, give all the mating surfaces (including the wedge on system side) some polishing efforts and a proper MoS2 relube. Works a treat and once done no need to touch it ever again.
    Last edited by pelletcaster; 10-01-2018 at 07:37 PM.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Red face

    Quote Originally Posted by pelletcaster View Post
    Hi,

    some guys are loosing the OP here.
    So my 2-Cents.

    Changing barrels on a HW-airgun is most likely done by simple exchange meaning a (new) barrel including the breech-block.
    To my understanding changing just the barrel itself taking it out of the breech-block is quite unusual and difficult.

    You may change complete barrels very easily between HW50 and 50s (as long as they have the newer 26mm system).
    HW35 only fit another HW35, nothing else.
    You may deliberately change barrels between HW80, 85, 90, 95, 98.

    Using the old pin and nut (if undamaged) is standard. Take care of the washers. Some greasing of the pin with MoS2 is mandatory.
    If you are lighthanded changing of barrel and still using the old shims - if undamaged - is standard behaviour too.
    If you find any damage / galling on the breech fork, the breech block or the shims - replace the shims and ensure a proper MoS2-grease lube.

    Hope this helps.
    ATB
    Andy

    PS:
    To ensure proper lock-up of the barrel in the breech I remove the wedge with the spring from the breech block, give all the mating surfaces (including the wedge on system side) some polishing efforts and a proper MoS2 relube. Works a treat and once done no need to touch it ever again.
    I was given a few airgunning bits by a mate when he had a shed clearout, Believe it or not there was a HW80 breech block!!, I think he had the barrel machined down to fit something else!!



    John
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