Danish or teak oil on gun stock

[madcarlos]

Hi just to ask if anyone have used either of the above to do a gun stock, Nearly Finnished the sanding etc for a gun stock and was going to send off for some oil for the stock but to be honest I'm off for a couple days and the weather looks crap so I want to source some locally tomorrow, Wilko, What shop, screwfix and toolstation very close to me and wanted to get some oil from either of these shoos to make a start tomorrow, Want to try and keep tge stock same colour or near enough so something clear, Any advice please.

[T 20]

I've used Danish oil With good results.

It's weird stuff though, you put it on the stock and let it go tacky, and then buff it in.



All the best Mick

[madcarlos]

I've used Danish oil With good results.

It's weird stuff though, you put it on the stock and let it go tacky, and then buff it in.



All the best Mick

Hopefully pick some up tomorrow and give it a try, I was going to stain but there's some nice markings on the stock and after cleaning with some white spirits I would like to keep the same colour, Thanks for the info.

[T 20]

Hopefully pick some up tomorrow and give it a try, I was going to stain but there's some nice markings on the stock and after cleaning with some white spirits I would like to keep the same colour, Thanks for the info.

I forgot to say, if you get one coat of Danish oil on and the stock looks a bit too light, you can mix Danish oil with a bit of wood dye for your second and subsequent coats to darken it down --- I normally make a small mix in a seperate bottle.

At one point you could buy Danish oil ready mixed with dye at B&Q, I don't know if they still sell it, but mixing your own is cheaper.




All the best Mick

[Blackmax]

Danish oil is a fantastic stock treatment and provides far greater protection than BLO, thin the first couple of coats with natural turps 50/50 as it'll aid penetration and speed up drying.

Danish oil is a hybrid oil/varnish, whereas BLO is a drying oil by way of chemical driers being added to sped the process up.

Word of warning if you're going to add any dyes to oil make sure they compatible, i.e. don't put water or spirit based dye in Danish oil.

Earth pigments are better suited to Danish oil or oil based dyes.

TruOil isn't an oil it's a varnish and in my view there are far superior products.

If you want to get on with your stock asap then Colron Danish oil available from Homebase is good although I prefer the Liberon brand if you can get it; not all Danish oil is the same.

[madcarlos]

Danish oil is a fantastic stock treatment and provides far greater protection than BLO, thin the first couple of coats with natural turps 50/50 as it'll aid penetration and speed up drying.

Danish oil is a hybrid oil/varnish, whereas BLO is a drying oil by way of chemical driers being added to sped the process up.

Word of warning if you're going to add any dyes to oil make sure they compatible, i.e. don't put water or spirit based dye in Danish oil.

Earth pigments are better suited to Danish oil or oil based dyes.

TruOil isn't an oil it's a varnish and in my view there are far superior products.

If you want to get on with your stock asap then Colron Danish oil available from Homebase is good although I prefer the Liberon brand if you can get it; not all Danish oil is the same.

Funny you should mention Liberon as that's all I can get at mo locally apart from ronseal, Anyway my mate does woodturning on a lathe and he told me to go up later as he got lots of different stuff up his house, He's gonna try a few on some fresh planned wood to see what shade I like, Thanks for all the replys tho

[Finn17]

...not all Danish oil is the same.

Very true! I have had very different experiences depending upon the brand.

I currently prefer Tru Oil and use it on guitar bodies as well. You can buy it in large bottles on .

[Phil Russell]

I have done several stocks with Danish oil. When I did them I applied a coat using a small bit of cotton rag, let it dry well then do another coat. Let dry, lightly sand down to remove any raised fibres etc then apply again. 24 hours between coats is not too long. A gloss will build up as you apply more coats ... working through a matt to a satin to a gloss finish. Let dry thoroughly between coats and as you reach the finish you want use very fine emery type paper. Approx 8 coats should give you a deep glass like gloss ... which is what I aim for. It will be very hard wearing.
For a beech stock I usually stain the stock to give a darker finish ... I like peruvian mahogany; best to try it out on scrap timber first.
Cheers, Phil

[madcarlos]

I have done several stocks with Danish oil. When I did them I applied a coat using a small bit of cotton rag, let it dry well then do another coat. Let dry, lightly sand down to remove any raised fibres etc then apply again. 24 hours between coats is not too long. A gloss will build up as you apply more coats ... working through a matt to a satin to a gloss finish. Let dry thoroughly between coats and as you reach the finish you want use very fine emery type paper. Approx 8 coats should give you a deep glass like gloss ... which is what I aim for. It will be very hard wearing.
For a beech stock I usually stain the stock to give a darker finish ... I like peruvian mahogany; best to try it out on scrap timber first.
Cheers, Phil

Ok cheers bud, Thanks for the reply .

[Rickenbacker]

I've used Danish oil With good results.

It's weird stuff though, you put it on the stock and let it go tacky, and then buff it in.



All the best Mick

Funny you should say that, Mick.

I (like many others) have spent hours 'palming in' the tiniest amounts of oil, til my hands are burning from friction and the wood is pretty warm too. 24 hrs later, I'd give it the lightest of sandings, blow the dust off, tack rag, thin down a few more drops of oil and start over again. And repeat endlessly.

I was told that Custom Stocks do it by your method, and can get their stocks done in a day, then straight in a box and out the door.

[Telephonepete]

I've used Danish oil With good results.

It's weird stuff though, you put it on the stock and let it go tacky, and then buff it in.



All the best Mick

Custom Stocks use danish oil as do i after their recomendation. they put danish oil on and take it straight off and have warned me against letting it get sticky. if it gets sticky its very difficult to get off. i hang the stock up for half an hour and do it again. you can get many coats on in a day and the oil gradualy builds up. buff it hard between coats. it results in a lovely sheen in a couple of busy days. much nicer than a high gloss in my opinion. i keep reading of these treatments that take weeks and i dont get it. if its good enough for Custom Stocks its good enough for me. if i could do pics put some pics up of my stocks but alas... pics by email if you wish. Custom stocks due to time available only put two coats on. after 20 its completely different.

[12/200]

I used BLO wasnt totally happy so bought & applied a few coats of CCL, the finish is a nice sheen, very pleased

bought from

thegunshoprugby (4839 Feedback score: 4839)

[hareng]

Custom Stocks use danish oil

It shows on their products, its just a basic no frills finish.
Filling any grain might take you weeks.

Linseed come back in a decade it dont go hard without a hardner.
CCL and Trade Secret same stuff by two gun makers is based on linseed with a hardner. Either way for pro job on walnut and most other woods it dont get any better. You wont see a quality gun with Danish.

Tru oils chips and wears off but does fill the grain.

Teak brilliant for laminate and good for other woods, quickest to dry, gives a good non tacky feel and just too easy to touch up, dont thank me.

[Otley]

For an oil finish, I use Rustins teak oil - their data sheet says that it contains tung oil and is the same as Danish oil except that it does not have the matting agent that Danish oil does, so will build up to a higher sheen.

If I'm finishing an open grain walnut, I use shellac or French polish to fill the pores, then sand off the surplus and oil as normal.

For a gloss finish with all the pores filled, I use a small spray gun to spray Tru oil. Over time, the Tru oil seems to sink in to the wood and gives a classy sort of finish, but any dinks need a sanding and respray.

[Peter Dunkley]

And there you have it. lots of opinions each of us has our own way.
Mine is after sealing the grain I apply Rustins Danish, sloppy and lots of it with my fingers.
Two three mins in summer then WIPE IT ALL OFF with soft cloth.
Leave 24hrs then do it again. Perhaps 4/5 times. This gives a very nice finish but as has been said not the most durable.
I then give just one coat of Truoil. Very very thin. One finger tip wet will do quarter of a stock, it's a knack to get it on before it dries.
On the other hand if you have time to spare BLO put on very thin and a zillion coats gives a lovely finish.