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Thread: Danish or teak oil on gun stock

  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chippendale View Post
    So can rags used with Dane Oil but its what I use.


    Chippendale (with clothes on)
    rags used with vegetable oils should be laid flat or soaked in water & laid flat outside away from combustible materials

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by madcarlos View Post
    Hopefully pick some up tomorrow and give it a try, I was going to stain but there's some nice markings on the stock and after cleaning with some white spirits I would like to keep the same colour, Thanks for the info.
    I forgot to say, if you get one coat of Danish oil on and the stock looks a bit too light, you can mix Danish oil with a bit of wood dye for your second and subsequent coats to darken it down --- I normally make a small mix in a seperate bottle.

    At one point you could buy Danish oil ready mixed with dye at B&Q, I don't know if they still sell it, but mixing your own is cheaper.




    All the best Mick

  3. #18
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    Danish oil is a fantastic stock treatment and provides far greater protection than BLO, thin the first couple of coats with natural turps 50/50 as it'll aid penetration and speed up drying.

    Danish oil is a hybrid oil/varnish, whereas BLO is a drying oil by way of chemical driers being added to sped the process up.

    Word of warning if you're going to add any dyes to oil make sure they compatible, i.e. don't put water or spirit based dye in Danish oil.

    Earth pigments are better suited to Danish oil or oil based dyes.

    TruOil isn't an oil it's a varnish and in my view there are far superior products.

    If you want to get on with your stock asap then Colron Danish oil available from Homebase is good although I prefer the Liberon brand if you can get it; not all Danish oil is the same.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackmax View Post
    Danish oil is a fantastic stock treatment and provides far greater protection than BLO, thin the first couple of coats with natural turps 50/50 as it'll aid penetration and speed up drying.

    Danish oil is a hybrid oil/varnish, whereas BLO is a drying oil by way of chemical driers being added to sped the process up.

    Word of warning if you're going to add any dyes to oil make sure they compatible, i.e. don't put water or spirit based dye in Danish oil.

    Earth pigments are better suited to Danish oil or oil based dyes.

    TruOil isn't an oil it's a varnish and in my view there are far superior products.

    If you want to get on with your stock asap then Colron Danish oil available from Homebase is good although I prefer the Liberon brand if you can get it; not all Danish oil is the same.
    Funny you should mention Liberon as that's all I can get at mo locally apart from ronseal, Anyway my mate does woodturning on a lathe and he told me to go up later as he got lots of different stuff up his house, He's gonna try a few on some fresh planned wood to see what shade I like, Thanks for all the replys tho

  5. #20
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    I used Liberon Finishing Oil because I already had some for making chopping boards.

    This is a blend of oils I believe to make it easier to apply.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Telephonepete View Post
    Custom Stocks use danish oil
    It shows on their products, its just a basic no frills finish.
    Filling any grain might take you weeks.

    Linseed come back in a decade it dont go hard without a hardner.
    CCL and Trade Secret same stuff by two gun makers is based on linseed with a hardner. Either way for pro job on walnut and most other woods it dont get any better. You wont see a quality gun with Danish.

    Tru oils chips and wears off but does fill the grain.

    Teak brilliant for laminate and good for other woods, quickest to dry, gives a good non tacky feel and just too easy to touch up, dont thank me.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackmax View Post
    ...not all Danish oil is the same.
    Very true! I have had very different experiences depending upon the brand.

    I currently prefer Tru Oil and use it on guitar bodies as well. You can buy it in large bottles on .

  8. #23
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    For an oil finish, I use Rustins teak oil - their data sheet says that it contains tung oil and is the same as Danish oil except that it does not have the matting agent that Danish oil does, so will build up to a higher sheen.

    If I'm finishing an open grain walnut, I use shellac or French polish to fill the pores, then sand off the surplus and oil as normal.

    For a gloss finish with all the pores filled, I use a small spray gun to spray Tru oil. Over time, the Tru oil seems to sink in to the wood and gives a classy sort of finish, but any dinks need a sanding and respray.

  9. #24
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    Finish

    And there you have it. lots of opinions each of us has our own way.
    Mine is after sealing the grain I apply Rustins Danish, sloppy and lots of it with my fingers.
    Two three mins in summer then WIPE IT ALL OFF with soft cloth.
    Leave 24hrs then do it again. Perhaps 4/5 times. This gives a very nice finish but as has been said not the most durable.
    I then give just one coat of Truoil. Very very thin. One finger tip wet will do quarter of a stock, it's a knack to get it on before it dries.
    On the other hand if you have time to spare BLO put on very thin and a zillion coats gives a lovely finish.
    When I die don't let my wife sell my guns for what she thinks I gave for them!!!

  10. #25
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    I use tung oil, just to mix things up a bit. First coat I thin right down with white spirit to get deeper into the wood. Slip, a load on, give it 5 or ten minutes then rub dry with a rag. Leave for an hour or so then put the next, undiluted coat on. Usually rub back down with something very fine (3m maroon scotchbrite) between the first few coats to catch and fibres that rise.

    You can try a slurry fill on the first coats where you lag the wood with plenty of oil and sand with something smooth like the scotchbrite. This creates a slurry of fine sawdust suspended in the oil. Wipe the excess off, going with the grain and allow to dry. This slurry should sit in the fine gaps and act as a filler leaving a perfectly smooth surface.

    Can go to a matte oil finish or with time go through to a semi gloss.
    Keeps the wood watertight, also use it on my chopping boards and wooden kitchen implements as it’s food safe, normally recommended for wooden kitchen tops.
    Last edited by jon_h; 18-01-2018 at 01:34 PM. Reason: Added some stuff

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Otley View Post
    For an oil finish, I use Rustins teak oil - their data sheet says that it contains tung oil and is the same as Danish oil except that it does not have the matting agent that Danish oil does, so will build up to a higher sheen.

    If I'm finishing an open grain walnut, I use shellac or French polish to fill the pores, then sand off the surplus and oil as normal.

    For a gloss finish with all the pores filled, I use a small spray gun to spray Tru oil. Over time, the Tru oil seems to sink in to the wood and gives a classy sort of finish, but any dinks need a sanding and respray.

    Used teak oil on arrow shafts for years to waterproof them. Also it has crossed my mind to try teak oil on stock. Will give it a go when a stock requires an oil up.

  12. #27
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  13. #28
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    Thumbs up

    I refinished these two Daystate Airwolf stocks for a chap that had a go with truoil, It never dried and was so tacky that they would end up stuck to the fleece!
    I used Welsh Willies Tung based oil, It was brilliant but the last lot I bought did the same as the fellas Truoil, I had a go at Blackrider's 300s and an Original mod50 stock, neither dried fully, I used the same method i've always used, A small amount on the palm of my hand and rub in 'til my hand burns!!, I'm wondering if the emulsifiers evaporate when the oil gets a bit old?

    The pic didn't come out too good as it was dark and flash photography aint my thing



    People say not to use oil on beech but this Original 45 with quarter sawn beech came out ok..





    This is a Cadet Major stock, It was a bit knocked about, I refinished this with acrylic lacquer from rattle cans!!





    Another that I used the rattle cans on, I didn't apply as much as the CM stock, It came out a satin finish..



    This is the O50 stock that didn't dry fully with the Tung based oil




    John
    for my gunz guitarz and bonzai, see here
    www.flickr.com/photos/8163995@N07/

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnbaz View Post
    People say not to use oil on beech but this Original 45 with quarter sawn beech came out ok..
    People say a lot of things, knowledge is a whole different matter.

  15. #30
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    John. Did you stain the beech stock first before using the tru-oil?

    I did the beech stock on my annie .22lr and it came out a pale colour https://www.dropbox.com/s/weqvktpw15...00658.jpg?dl=0

    Im planning to strip the tru-oil off and possibly stain it first or get pre tinted oil finish and o it again. i have a Hw99 to do also.

    This HW80k was done for me by a friend and i'm sure it was done with bri-wax and nothing else . Its my nephews rifle and i have not seen it since 2010 or so ,so i'm not sure what it looks like now.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/fqxq8d4wd1...21115.jpg?dl=0

    Paul

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