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Thread: shaping stock best tool?

  1. #1
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    shaping stock best tool?

    i wasnt going to do it but i think i am. my cs700 has always seemed a bit big for my 99 and when i compare it to my other cs700,s it not the same shape. i cant put pics on here or i would. going to slim it down. nothing fancy just reduce the depth of it and the width a little. its always seemed a bit slab sided since i bought it. what i want to ask is what is the best tool to use to remove a fair bit of wood. i have noticed when using a plane type surform that having removed stippling for instance and then smoothing a stock a surface that feels smooth is not because when i have applied stain to the wood it reveals tiny pits in the surface not obvious until the stain has been applied. this leads me to think that the surform may be a bit rough on the wood. i have wood rasps and could come up with a wood plane if required. what do you suggest ? i also have a black and decker mouse. i usualy use what i think its called hook and loop on the sander of various grades going on to fine sand paper.

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    A power file is what you need .

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    Quote Originally Posted by crowbar View Post
    A power file is what you need .
    sounds expensive and i would rather not. thanks for the info but next best please?

  4. #4
    BEESA's Avatar
    BEESA is offline A Man walks in to a bar.....
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    A sharp hand plane followed by sanding with your mouse
    Don

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    eyebull's Avatar
    eyebull is offline Even a stopped clock is right twice a day
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    Powerfiles are not all that expensive and a fantastic tool. We use the 'Evolution' one at work.
    Good deals with these members

  6. #6
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    You be surprised how much can be taken off with cabinet scrapers. Other options would be a small block plane and spoke shaves, or just get some good files and file away.

    Personally I use a Japanese file, as these can take a lot off wood off with little effort. Then finish off with glass paper or a scraper to removed the file marks.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapid7Nick View Post
    You be surprised how much can be taken off with cabinet scrapers. Other options would be a small block plane and spoke shaves, or just get some good files and file away.

    Personally I use a Japanese file, as these can take a lot off wood off with little effort. Then finish off with glass paper or a scraper to removed the file marks.
    when you say good files do you mean wood rasps?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Telephonepete View Post
    sounds expensive and i would rather not. thanks for the info but next best please?
    A few grades of sand paper from coarse to fine and a couple of pads to carry them, wire wool to finish off. A lot of elbow grease.

    A.G

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    Hi Pete,
    As long as you mark up the areas you want to remove and keep the strokes along the entire length of the area a wood rasp is fine. When sanding afterwards use a wooden or cork block to secure the abrasive paper to ensure the wood ends up level.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Telephonepete View Post
    when you say good files do you mean wood rasps?
    Yes wood rasps. Although as said I much prefer a Japanese file. Basically it looks like a bunch of hacksaw blades in a honeycomb pattern.

    http://www.axminster.co.uk/japanese-saw-rasp-384015

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    Quote Originally Posted by Rapid7Nick View Post
    Yes wood rasps. Although as said I much prefer a Japanese file. Basically it looks like a bunch of hacksaw blades in a honeycomb pattern.

    http://www.axminster.co.uk/japanese-saw-rasp-384015
    ok thanks will look on

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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackmax View Post
    Hi Pete,
    As long as you mark up the areas you want to remove and keep the strokes along the entire length of the area a wood rasp is fine. When sanding afterwards use a wooden or cork block to secure the abrasive paper to ensure the wood ends up level.
    ok thanks andy it wont be for a few weeks back in caravan march 1st.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Telephonepete View Post
    ok thanks andy it wont be for a few weeks back in caravan march 1st.
    Any time Pete, I've just altered a stock and fully chequered it for a lad from your end of the country. I used rasps, files and different grades of abrasive paper. If I can help in any way fell free to contact me.

    Quote Originally Posted by Rapid7Nick View Post
    Yes wood rasps. Although as said I much prefer a Japanese file. Basically it looks like a bunch of hacksaw blades in a honeycomb pattern.

    http://www.axminster.co.uk/japanese-saw-rasp-384015
    That looks good Nick, I might have to invest in one of those. What's the sort of lifespan you can expect from one?

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    Quote Originally Posted by eyebull View Post
    Powerfiles are not all that expensive and a fantastic tool. We use the 'Evolution' one at work.
    I’ve made a couple of stocks and a power file is the way to go, buy a cheap one and flog it on the bay when you’ve finished with it, you’ll probably only loose a tenner on it and you will have used the best tool for the job as it won’t rip and tear the timber.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blackmax View Post
    Any time Pete, I've just altered a stock and fully chequered it for a lad from your end of the country. I used rasps, files and different grades of abrasive paper. If I can help in any way fell free to contact me.



    That looks good Nick, I might have to invest in one of those. What's the sort of lifespan you can expect from one?

    Had the same file must be 14 years and it's still going strong. I've shaped quite a few longbow staves over the years when I made a few longbows. Done a few ash axe handles too for axes. Plus bits here and there.
    Last edited by Rapid7Nick; 25-01-2018 at 11:13 PM.

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