The secret is to do one shot groups
The secret is to do one shot groups
And then an ice hockey game broke out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0woZ...layer_embedded
son got MOM in world championships: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoCcYwNJxv4
Once you got the receipies right for the hornet , they should shoot lazer like, i use Vhit 110/120 with sub 1" @ 100yds. 40/45gr s/p
.22LR CZ452; .22 Hornet CZ527
Tikka T3 Varmint .223; .204 Ruger CZ527 Varmint;
6.5 Creed Bergara B14 HMR
Ok so I bought myself a reloading kit ,only a cheack Lee breech lock but it’s a start next will be some dies ,so what to get
Lee
Rcbs
Two die or three die ?
Acta non Verba
Hi Mick,
Whilst a three die set makes life a little easier it is VERY important to ensure that your reloaded rounds HEAD SPACE on the long sloping Hornet and NOT the rim! Cases like the Hornet will stretch very easily after firing resulting in case loss due to separation just above the rim. Just using the neck size die of a 3 die set will maintain a "tight fit" in the chamber and reduce somewhat excessive case stretching, but in a case like this it will stretch more than a straight wall steep angle neck case. If using a 2 die set; you can "back off" the F/L die from the shell holder just enough that when your reloaded round is chambered it encounters some resistance reducing its tendency to stretch. NOTE: Remember that the die manufacturer made his die so that when screwed down on the shell holder it would result in a case that would re-chamber in "every man and his dog's" rifle! This DOES not mean that this is the ideal setup for your rifle (but it might be), so, for your rifle adjust the die so that after the resizing of fired cases they just slip in your chamber and then lock the die! However, just remember that YOUR resized rounds may not fit in somebody else's chamber and you should not do this anyway. Your safe reloads may not be safe in another rifle. I bought my first chronograph in about 1969 (silver ink printed screens) and believe you me the chronograph is a very desirable piece of kit that will become nearly impossible to live without. Often when factory loads are fired across the chronograph you wonder why you are paying good money for ammo that does not anywhere near live up the the manufacturers hype although sometimes it does. The chronograph will allow you to optimise what you can get out of your rifle. Just because a reloading manual details a certain load; use it as a potential start remembering that it was worked up in HIS gun! Also, sometimes data may be published by a certain powder manufacturer and they often "tend" to "big note" their powder! What about the primer, bullet and case? Some cases are harder than others and tend to resist higher load pressures, primers may also affect the "burn" and the bullet? Ideally get a chronograph and learn to "read" case pressures (I posed a sticky "A Good Read for Reloaders" and I suggest you read it). Finally, watch case stretch and trim to length to avoid the possibility of "neck jam" in the chamber which will raise pressures. If you do not get 5 plus reloads out of your cases before primer pocket loosening then YOUR PRESSURES ARE TOO HIGH-reduce the load, change the powder, primer, bullet or case so that you do!
And most of all-HAVE FUN!
pjinoz
Thank you for your post it looks like I have a lot to learn, I did buy a chrony master alpha at the same time I did thin’ it would come in handy 🙂
Acta non Verba
The hornet case is shaped like a cylindrical wedge, it head spaces off of the rim not the 'shoulder' as it doesn't have a shoulder, if it was as simple as sizing to a crush fit then the good folk at saubier.com wouldn't go to the effort of group ordering RWS brass as it has a thicker rim and more consistent rim and therefore headspaces better, they'd just size for a crush fit.
Generally the european brass has a thicker rim so head spaces more reliably. you have to decide whether you want to push for maximum velocity in which case use american head stamps (REM/Win/Hornady in that order) as these cases are thinner walled and therefore allow more powder capacity but they do fail quicker, or potentially better headpsace due to thicker rim but lower velocities due to less case capacity of european brass but greater longevity, PPU being the obvious and most easily obtainable. There is about 1.5 gr difference in capacity of lilgun between Rem and PPU brass, Rem brass is very hard to get hold of over here unless you want to shoot factory ammo to obtain it. S&B is okay but the primer pockets are punched so need widening and cleaning up in a lot of cases.
In terms of dies I'd go for the lee 4 die set, this gives you the option to FL size, even if you neck size your own brass you will need this if you buy once fired brass and the more people that are loading hornet the harder hornet brass is to get hold of. It also contains a collet neck sizing die, which will allow you to increase the longevity of the brass, work it less and no lube / dry lube only. The 4 die set also contains a factory crimp die which, if you look around the forums, a lot of hornet reloaders swear by.
A chrono is very useful but provided you stick to published data its definitely not an essential, for hornet you are loading for a functional round that shoots < MOA out to 200 yards, you don't need a chrono to achieve this. Hornet is a doddle to load but as has been said know what you are looking out for in terms of pressure, you only get one face.
Lilgun is the best powder to start with and unlike many Hodgdon powders is not REACH affected
Last edited by 223AI; 27-03-2018 at 01:03 PM.
Thanks for looking