The hornets a keeper .going to get a new stock for it and some nice glass
The hornets a keeper .going to get a new stock for it and some nice glass
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The secret is to do one shot groups
And then an ice hockey game broke out: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G0woZ...layer_embedded
son got MOM in world championships: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoCcYwNJxv4
Once you got the receipies right for the hornet , they should shoot lazer like, i use Vhit 110/120 with sub 1" @ 100yds. 40/45gr s/p
.22LR CZ452; .22 Hornet CZ527
Tikka T3 Varmint .223; .204 Ruger CZ527 Varmint;
6.5 Creed Bergara B14 HMR
Ok so I bought myself a reloading kit ,only a cheack Lee breech lock but it’s a start next will be some dies ,so what to get
Lee
Rcbs
Two die or three die ?
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Hi Mick,
Whilst a three die set makes life a little easier it is VERY important to ensure that your reloaded rounds HEAD SPACE on the long sloping Hornet and NOT the rim! Cases like the Hornet will stretch very easily after firing resulting in case loss due to separation just above the rim. Just using the neck size die of a 3 die set will maintain a "tight fit" in the chamber and reduce somewhat excessive case stretching, but in a case like this it will stretch more than a straight wall steep angle neck case. If using a 2 die set; you can "back off" the F/L die from the shell holder just enough that when your reloaded round is chambered it encounters some resistance reducing its tendency to stretch. NOTE: Remember that the die manufacturer made his die so that when screwed down on the shell holder it would result in a case that would re-chamber in "every man and his dog's" rifle! This DOES not mean that this is the ideal setup for your rifle (but it might be), so, for your rifle adjust the die so that after the resizing of fired cases they just slip in your chamber and then lock the die! However, just remember that YOUR resized rounds may not fit in somebody else's chamber and you should not do this anyway. Your safe reloads may not be safe in another rifle. I bought my first chronograph in about 1969 (silver ink printed screens) and believe you me the chronograph is a very desirable piece of kit that will become nearly impossible to live without. Often when factory loads are fired across the chronograph you wonder why you are paying good money for ammo that does not anywhere near live up the the manufacturers hype although sometimes it does. The chronograph will allow you to optimise what you can get out of your rifle. Just because a reloading manual details a certain load; use it as a potential start remembering that it was worked up in HIS gun! Also, sometimes data may be published by a certain powder manufacturer and they often "tend" to "big note" their powder! What about the primer, bullet and case? Some cases are harder than others and tend to resist higher load pressures, primers may also affect the "burn" and the bullet? Ideally get a chronograph and learn to "read" case pressures (I posed a sticky "A Good Read for Reloaders" and I suggest you read it). Finally, watch case stretch and trim to length to avoid the possibility of "neck jam" in the chamber which will raise pressures. If you do not get 5 plus reloads out of your cases before primer pocket loosening then YOUR PRESSURES ARE TOO HIGH-reduce the load, change the powder, primer, bullet or case so that you do!
And most of all-HAVE FUN!
pjinoz
Thank you for your post it looks like I have a lot to learn, I did buy a chrony master alpha at the same time I did thin’ it would come in handy 🙂
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