BSA R10
Hw100
Registered User
I've got both, I much prefer the R10 for the looks and the fact that (for me) it's much more pointable, therefore more enjoyable and easier to shoot accurately.
As for quality, it took four Weihrauch's to get one that didn't have a problem, the bluing still isn't great though.
The R10 did have an intermittent problem and rather than mess about with sending back to BSA, I took it to RancidTom to sort out, it made a world of difference.
Cheers,
Mark.
Registered User
Nothing wrong with either as both are good in their own way and both suffer silly problems.
John Darling JD (1946-2004) was my inspiration to be the best i can and enjoy the sport i love. R.I.P
A dedicated HW80 Fanatic and owner since 1986 to present.
Registered User
Its a shame you only have those choices, best of luck with either
Chris
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"FETCH IT THEN!!!!"
And the award for the most useful comment goes to..Originally Posted by 32:1
"corners should be round"
tlhIngan maH. taHja
I would consider both.
I have an HW100.
I would buy an R10
Both are sorted.
The R10 can be fettled but the 100 doesnt really need it
The 100s biggest achilees heel is the weight so I would swap out for an alloy cylinder and flog the steel to someone who wants to kill elephants.
The R10 has the edge on balance but I hate nose heavy guns. .i e has a Pope FX alloy and its a huge difference.
As a hunter the mag system for the 100 is untouchable. And its side lever as opposed Bolt action another huge plus for me.
The R10 is a good looking rifle for a front end bottle gun but looks is NEVER a factor I use. Fit and Functions are the kings for me.
You wont waste money on either and I recommend both. The only way to do this is to try them and see the fit. As i said when you swap out the cylinder on the 100 its a very fine rifle for club or field.
100 would be first.choice and R10 as a 2nd.
In a battle of wits I refuse to engage with an unarmed person.
To one shot one kill, you need to seek the S. Kill only comes from Skill
"FETCH IT THEN!!!!"
Thanks that's a nice even overview.. I have an R10 and the annoying bits are the bolt catching my NV boot when I'm night shooting & the arkward rail that limits the rings you can use. The other issue I have is. I think I want to go .20, I have had a .177 & a .22 for a while now and I love the .22 for the farmyard and I find the .177 alright overall but better in the field than the .22. I'm getting really bored of having 2 pcp's to upkeep and choose from and then thinking "I want the other one now!" I want just one as I'd rather have another Springer.
So i figure on a .20 carbine & really the only option in .20 I think is the hw100 k. I feel it would be the best all-round solution to efficiently shooting in barns & open fields.
Thanks steyr
Last edited by rhyslightnin; 11-03-2018 at 10:52 AM.
"corners should be round"
Registered User
I originally bought a Walther RM8 but after going back to fix a leak it came back with serious accuracy problems so i bought up to a HW100.
Was seriously impressed with the groupings after shooting springers most of my life 5p groups at 25m was good enough for me. easy action nothing to dislike except the finish of the stock.
I thought i was a pretty good shot with that gun!
My 7 year old grandson paid a visit and wanted a go having never shot a real gun, just on video games.
1 session later with some serious supervision the little "£$^$£"" had the same 5p groupings as me!
His finger could barely reach the trigger, so its looks like its not me its the gun.
i am not sure if i should let him have another go!
tlhIngan maH. taHja
OK.... Your next issue will be availability of Ammo in .20 and finding one that the barrel likes. >20 is the least popular cal iro makes and variants so your limiting your choice. Now that isn't necessarily a Bad thing but you're definitely fishing in a smaller pond.
I personally would not buy .22 for a sub 12 gun or .25 for that matter unless it was close barn clearing or tough close quarry such as rats or squirrels or pigeon. Pigeon is tough is your close with .177 as the pellet drills too easily.
I personally would prefer .177 for the flatter traj and I would carry two pellet types rather than 2 guns.
One would be a dome for longer shots and the other would be a hollow point (or similar) for closer tuff stuff.
Both would be as soft a lead content as you can get with no antimony. Soft lead squashes whereas antimony can resist deformation.
I actually go for light soft lead such as JSB Exact Express 7.9 grain. It whacks really well and seems to drop better than 8.4 std JSB Exacts. I use Bisley Pest control hollows as my barrel likes them and I get to 25 to 30 yards before it turns into Cinderella's house brick. But when it comes to HP's the furthest you can shoot them can vary greatly.
.20 is a compromise calibre and a compromise is still a compromise with less choice.
The .177 has a huge option of pellet weight if you want to kcuf about with weights and stuff but I go .177 soft lead and light weight and it does it for me.
I would certainly do you homework on pellet selection open to you in .20 before you make the jump and bigger Cal in sub 12 is just another level of handicap imho.
That said, if you know the distance and you know your gun, you can shoot a bloody sub 12 .30 Cal and drop stuff....I just don't see the advantage in buying something that shoots like a bloody rainbow and isn't as pretty. There sure isn't no crock of gold at either end as I see it.
Also, I guess, you only live once so if you isn't done it......
Still think .177 is the best route an piss about with pellets and head size and weight and plastic point bits and......well you get the idea
In a battle of wits I refuse to engage with an unarmed person.
To one shot one kill, you need to seek the S. Kill only comes from Skill
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