Falcon Fn19 Advice please

[copperjacket]

Good evening All

I have a Left Handed FN19 .177 that I would like to strip, service and reseal.

Unfortunately I still have not been able to gain access to the Falcon Owners site so I thought I would direct my queries here please:

1. I have found a Strip down tutorial but where is the best place to buy the seals?
2. Obviously the power will need to be checked but re-adjustment guide?
3. De-twanger where to source and how to fit? The old advice here suggests UK Neil or Requoil but are either still doing parts?
4. Quickfill? Best fittings or another?
5. Moderator Adapter? Uk Neil or another?
6. Other - fitting bipod stud, brass parts etc?

Many thanks

[Rickenbacker]

To start you off:

8ugYjsa.jpg

[averageplinker]

Hi,
I too have a left handed FN19 requiring a rebuild. I picked up a set of seals and a valve refurbishment kit direct from air arms/NSP engineering a couple of weeks ago. They took over Falcon.
Good price and very quick delivery.
Rich.

[junglie]

If it's the old titan style 8th bsp screw on fill valve, a quick fill male end with a dowty washer is all you need, fiver from the bay.

[grumpygit]

Don't know if this will work but try this link of a PDF file i posted on the Falcon Forum a while back.Steve

http://gallery.myff.org/gallery/1102...s+diagrams.pdf

[grumpygit]

When reassembling the trigger unit onto the action it is imperritive that the action is part cocked or hammer spring removed before the ball bearing is inserted into the action and the trigger unit is tightened up, if this is not done there is a strong chance you will fracture the trigger housing. Below is a copy of the instructions from the Falcon forum for the trigger unit which also tells you how to re fix it. Steve




Wed Mar 12, 2014 9:51 am #1



I find it best to remove the hammer spring adjusting cover, slacken the little grub screw in the side of the rear end of the hammer tube to allow the removal of the 5/8" UNF adjuster. The hammer spring and spring follower can now be removed. With the tension off, the hammer it can easily be moved along its path and placed in any position. With the M5 attaching screws and the correct Allen key to hand, pick up the action in one hand and the trigger unit in the other making sure that the "see-saw" lever is level and its spring is seated in its hole. If you have the ball bearing type*, cant the action slightly on its side so that the ball can be placed in its circular cut out with the hammer in its cocked position so that the ball locates into the groove in the hammer, then bring the trigger unit and action together, the only resistance should be the see-saw spring (do not buckle this) so that the two pieces can be pressed together without too much pressure. The contact surfaces should be flush with no perceivable gap between them.
Make sure that the M5 holes are aligned and fit the two M5 capheads, do not tighten, now try and work the hammer back and forth each time releasing the forward movement with the trigger. If the hammer releases smoothly (It often needs quite some pressure from the rear before the trigger will release so you have to imitate the springs pressure) and there is still no gap between the trigger unit and the hammer tube, then the M5's can be nipped up (over tightening WILL break these legs!). Set the hammer forward, then replace the spring with its guide, then the hammer spring adjuster. Before tightening the adjuster locking grub screw the gun must be checked that it is well within the legal limit. Having done this, replace the adjuster cover.

*If you have the post type latch on your see-saw make sure this post fits into the latching groove in the hammer similarly as was done with the ball bearing.

You don't have to take the hammer spring out to attach the trigger unit, but it is just one thing less to cope with if you remove the hammer spring from the equation.


Try it with the hammer spring in, but the thing you need to be careful of is that the ball bearing must be in the hammer groove, or the trigger must be held back allowing the ball to drop away from the hammer, either will do, but don't tighten the M5's up unless you know that the ball isn't wedged between the see-saw lever and the smooth part of the hammer. (you should be able to push the trigger unit up into contact with the hammer tube with no gap along its edge)


GUN NUT added this......

It is essential to pull the cocking lever partially back when refitting the trigger assembly (either that or remove the hammer spring) otherwise the trigger will bind and not move (maybe also cracking the trigger block) or the ball bearing will move out of place and the trigger will not 'latch back'. Personally I put the trigger back on with the gun upside down so the ball bearing can be dropped into the hole in the hammer tube. The hammer can then be pulled back until the bearing drops into place and then the trigger unit can be screwed on top (be careful the top spring doesn't fall out). If either of the mounting screws are tight during screwing them all the way in STOP and check that the hammer is in the right place.

_________________
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[IanSea]

Sorry to hijack the thread but could one of you Falcon owner confirm if the FN models have a 25mm cylinder. The reason I ask is that I’m rebuilding a Daystate Mirage and when finished I’ll be looking for a L/h stock. If a Falcon stock could be modified that would be a another option to consider. I should know as I had FN12 and 19 models, but it was a few years ago and I can’t remember.
Thanks

[Rickenbacker]

Hi Ian,
My Titan's tube is around 25.3mm diam', which I assume was about the same as the later Falcon FN series.
That is very similar to my old DS LR90 tube, which is 25.2mm.
So both are pretty much what you might call 1" tubes.

[IanSea]

Hi Ian,
My Titan's tube is around 25.3mm diam', which I assume was about the same as the later Falcon FN series.
That is very similar to my old DS LR90 tube, which is 25.2mm.
So both are pretty much what you might call 1" tubes.

Thanks, a Daystate stock would be my preferred option but it looks like a Falcon could be modified to fit.

[grumpygit]

yes the FN series stocks should be ok but not the later Prairie stocks.

[richywilk]

Good evening All

I have a Left Handed FN19 .177 that I would like to strip, service and reseal.

Unfortunately I still have not been able to gain access to the Falcon Owners site so I thought I would direct my queries here please:

1. I have found a Strip down tutorial but where is the best place to buy the seals?
2. Obviously the power will need to be checked but re-adjustment guide?
3. De-twanger where to source and how to fit? The old advice here suggests UK Neil or Requoil but are either still doing parts?
4. Quickfill? Best fittings or another?
5. Moderator Adapter? Uk Neil or another?
6. Other - fitting bipod stud, brass parts etc?

Many thanks

Check/ Google TRRob..he does service kits and brass bits for that model..he also does a strip down guide for it..
It was the first pcp I ever purchased ..it's a very easy gun to work on.

[copperjacket]

Thank you all very much for the advice.

I will order some seals and give it a go.

If only I could join the falcon site to look at bling options!

[Logunner]

Thank you all very much for the advice.

I will order some seals and give it a go.

If only I could join the falcon site to look at bling options!

No bling for these old girls.. none needed.

If you struggle to seperate the brass valve body from the main tube then clamp it in a 25mm scope mount line with a little bit of rubber clove.. heat the join between tube and valve with a hairdryer and it will unscrews easily using the mount as a grip.

[copperjacket]

True but in fact I want to remove some of the brass extras already installed and return to blued steel. Also there is a somewhat chewed up end cap I would like to replace and a better muzzle to moderator adapter.

[Logunner]

What extras?