Coppaslip?

[Rickenbacker]

Here's a thought, provoked by Carlos, and his endless servicing of his new car.

Has anybody used Coppaslip (or Silverslip?) on the moving parts of their guns?

I'm thinking of using it during rebuilds - on cocking linkages, breech jaws & shims, outside of the moving comp' tube on HW97s/TX200s, etc...

I know it's not the kind of lube that you can 'squeeze in' like oil, so it's only possible to use properly if you're taking bits apart and putting them back together.

Reason I ask is, I don't like using grease in areas that are open to the environment - as grease picks up grit and uses it like grinding paste. I believe grease is best used in captive areas for that reason.

I believe I've read that Steve Pope uses "anti-scuff paste" for the main tube -to- sliding comp' tube, on the '77/'97 action. I don't know what that is, but maybe Coppaslip is similar stuff? Less sticky than grease?

So, any thoughts? I don't want to be a 'lubrication pioneer'!

[JLB]

More of an anti-seize product for nuts & bolts than a lubricant. I would stick to good old Moly.

John

[CapitalBee]

Hi Phil,
I've used it on some of my rebuilds, mostly in the breech jaws and cocking linkages - mind you, with the gauling issues I've had on various HW30's, I tried several alternatives, including graphite dust (though this tended to be a bit short lived with regards to effectiveness). No complaints on the coppaslip, though it can be a bit messy.

[1shot1kill]

Copperslip is an anti-seize compound & not really intended for moving parts,
J.

[bighit]

Copperslip is good for anti seize conditions or protecting fittings. (we used it on offshore compressors to coat the hose fittings and the hose connectors.

Never used it as a lubricant for anything else .

I know some have used it in airguns the same as some use moly on springs and so on .

It can dry up in some applications and it attracts dust (we had a yard that was hardcore rather than concrete and in the summer the dust stuck to the copper slipped fittings and had to be removed and only applied as the compressor was leaving the yard on the lorry .

It gets on things that you don't want it to go on and sticks out like a sore thumb.

[mallyally]

the stuff I use is called Meta slip but its very much like coppaslip
been using it for years but its a B stuart to get off your hands

[NewPaul]

On trigger sears maybe ?

[Rickenbacker]

On trigger sears maybe ?

Are you asking for a slap?

[Pakmoto]

Never use copper slip on anything but parts that are subjected to high temperatures.

• Copper Grease is mineral based and may damage any rubber component that it comes into contact with such as rubber boots, gaiters, seals and O rings, etc.
• Copper Grease is an excellent conductor of heat.
• Copper Grease has poor lubricating properties. It is in fact an anti-seize compound.

[Cutsngrazes]

I have used Copper grease very successfully in air rifle parts.

I will try to explain in simple terms, so chemists and purists please accept my simplification as an attempt to explain to non-techy's a rather complex subject.

Grease is basically a soap or thickener that retains oil (rather like a sponge holds water) where the oil would otherwise leak away or be rubbed away. The grease base also retains anti-wear agents better than oil would, they would drop out of oil where they will remain in the grease.

If there is enough high pressure, the oil/grease can be squeezed out causing metal contact and wear.

These anti-wear agents may be typically very fine powder like molybdenum disulphide (MOLY), graphite powder or copper powder. These powders are held in the film of oil/grease and under pressure when the oil or grease could be squeezed out, and the moly, graphite or copper is left between the surfaces and, being softer than steel will help reduce or prevent steel-on-steel contact therefore reducing wear. That is also how it helps to prevent seizing, by leaving a thin film of soft copper particles between the moving parts as a soft lubricant.

It is the oil/grease mixture that may dry out, typical of most standard greases, but the soft metals, copper etc should still be there to do its job. It will generally only dry out if exposed to constant high temperatures or left in a hot dry place for a very long time.

Having said all that, the latest synthetic and silicone greases use the very latest, best and generally 'most expensive' materials and if the gun is in warranty, use what the gun manufacturer recommends. But I have never had any problems with Copper type grease used sparingly.

Just a footnote as Pakmoto replied (above) as I was typing this, and he is quite right, Copper Grease generally has mineral oil in it, but that is what Gun Oil is based on so you should have no problem with seals and 'O' rings.

[Thegreg]

I have taken air rifles apart and found people have used copper grease, but it's not something I'd put on air rifle internals.

It probably couldn't cause harm, but wouldn't be my first choice for a lubricant.

I use it extensively on nuts/bolts/wheel spindles etc. on motorcycles but never had it near an air rifle!

Cheers
Greg

[MikeHW45]

When two metal parts are joined such as threaded studs and nuts etc, the copper slip forms a barrier between the two metal parts and essentially prevents them from fusing together due to corrosion. This is why it is used on the rear surface of brake pads where they come into contact with the piston surface. It is not recommended as a general grease/lubricant so would well worth researching some more as I feel it may do more harm than good.

[TonyL]

I seem to remember reading many moons ago that one of the prominent tuning houses maybe used similar back in the 80s?

Having said that, Phil, I'd stick to the good old, tried and tested moly grease for all load bearing surfaces. Sometimes a high moly content paste on the very high load bearing ones, like rear of the piston. A tiny, tiny smear around the edge of synthetic piston seals, too.

I have no issue whatsoever in using it on the outside of the comp tube. Just wipe the visible excess away if you're worried over the grease attracting dust, as a little of the moly (as above) will have got burnished into the surface. If you were really paranoid over any oil or grease being there, you could just burnish some dry moly powder into it (available from Chambers and elsewhere).

[bighit]

When two metal parts are joined such as threaded studs and nuts etc, the copper slip forms a barrier between the two metal parts and essentially prevents them from fusing together due to corrosion. This is why it is used on the rear surface of brake pads where they come into contact with the piston surface. It is not recommended as a general grease/lubricant so would well worth researching some more as I feel it may do more harm than good.

Its not recommend on brake pads now .

http://www.thepartsalliance.com/delp...copper-grease/
Delphi does not recommend the use of Copper Grease
21st June 2017/
There’s a widespread view that copper grease, otherwise known as copper slip, should be applied to the back of brake pads to help lubrication and noise prevention. Not so. The need for copper grease has diminished in recent years in line with advances in shim technology.

In fact, its use could have the opposite effect, preventing the shim, the basis of quiet braking, from doing its job. The result is increased noise and judder, as well as possible interference with the electrical systems such as the ABS, ESP wear sensors, etc.

So Why Take the Risk?

Copper Grease is mineral based and may damage any rubber component that it comes into contact with such as rubber boots, gaiters, seals and O rings, etc.
Copper Grease is an excellent conductor of heat and when used on the backside of a brake pad can significantly increase heat transfer.
Copper Grease has poor lubricating properties. It is in fact an anti-seize compound.
Never use Copper Grease on the back side of a brake disc mounting face as this can increase the Disc run out lead to DTV (Disc Thickness Variation) causing brake judder.
A good quality non-mineral grease should be used on moving parts only and never applied to the back face of a Brake Pad or mounting face of a Brake Disc.
Most modern brake pads are supplied with noise fix shims and do not require the use of Copper Grease, which could be detrimental to their performance.

You really need to watch O-rings and seals with oils. I had 2 DIY brake bleeding kits for my mountain bike brakes . one set of brakes used Dot fluid and the other was mineral fluid.

One day my brother decided to bleed his brakes and used the wrong bleeder and the oil swelled the O-rings that the brake pistons were sealed with . They locked the pistons solid in the caliper and the only way to get the pistons out was to burn the O-Rings out ( the brake makers advised this way ) .

so make sure the oils in the grease are not going to affect rubber and polymer O-rings .

[hmangphilly]

When two metal parts are joined such as threaded studs and nuts etc, the copper slip forms a barrier between the two metal parts and essentially prevents them from fusing together due to corrosion. This is why it is used on the rear surface of brake pads where they come into contact with the piston surface. It is not recommended as a general grease/lubricant so would well worth researching some more as I feel it may do more harm than good.

Gotta be careful though if the 2 parts are of dissimilar metals ........water and salt will be very unhelpful in this situation too