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Thread: Leupold scope on a HW95K

  1. #1
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    Leupold scope on a HW95K

    I have the option for a Leupold VX-1 2-7x33mm at a very good price. Now, I know Leupold has a VX Rimfire version which is perfect for airguns too but it's double the price in this case. My concern is simply that the standard VX 33mm parallax is adjusted around 100y contrary to the Rimfire version. Some says I should pay for the Rimfire, but a lot of others says, from experience, it's no problem to use the VX-1 scope on this airrifle.

  2. #2
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    I use a Leupold M8 on my HW95. I adjusted the objective lens to suit.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morton54 View Post
    I have the option for a Leupold VX-1 2-7x33mm at a very good price. Now, I know Leupold has a VX Rimfire version which is perfect for airguns too but it's double the price in this case. My concern is simply that the standard VX 33mm parallax is adjusted around 100y contrary to the Rimfire version. Some says I should pay for the Rimfire, but a lot of others says, from experience, it's no problem to use the VX-1 scope on this airrifle.
    Welcome to the forum

    You will probably be able to re-set the vx1 for your uses, you simply undo the ring on the front, wind the objective lens out 3/4 of a turn, then put the ring back on. I'd be buying the vx1 at half the price.

    Ps: lovely choice of brand, magnification and objective diameter for an airgun by the way
    Rhys
    "corners should be round" Theo Evo .22/.177 - Meopta 6x42, DS huntsman classic .20 vortex razor LH 3-15x42 under supervised boingrati tuning by Tony L & Tinbum, HW77 forest green - Nikon prostaff 2-7x32 plex.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhyslightnin
    Ps: lovely choice of brand, magnification and objective diameter for an airgun by the way
    Rhys
    Good to hear I have been through them all, but landed on this one.

    you simply undo the ring on the front, wind the objective lens out 3/4 of a turn, then put the ring back on
    Sounds dangerous.. But if I dare, looking from the front, 3/4 turn clock or anti-clock wise?
    Last edited by Morton54; 21-03-2018 at 09:29 AM.

  5. #5
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    Front ring off and turn in or out...works fine.
    However do not expect perfect clarity at all ranges with large magnification

    If you want perfect clarity at full mag fir all ranges get a 3-9x33 efr the perfect small air rifle scope if you get on with cross hair

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morton54 View Post
    Good to hear I have been through them all, but landed on this one.


    Sounds dangerous.. But if I dare, looking from the front, 3/4 turn clock or anti-clock wise?
    Hi sorry for the late response!!

    Wind out or anti clockwise.
    I'd set yourself up with a magazine or newspaper at the range you want, the lettering makes it easier to see when it's focused & it's flat so you get an accurate point in the field of view of the scope, as apposed to a tree which is 3d . (30yrds is good because as the ranges get close you can lower the mag and the focus/ parallax issue reduces as you lower mag) Then put the scope on max mag to emphasize the issue with the focus, then pop the lock ring off and wind the carrier out a bit at a time slowly until the picture & reticle are in focus on the newspaper then pop the lock ring back on. You may find half a turn is enough you'll just have to see. Some scopes lock rings are attached to the carrier with glue and when you loosen them the carrier moves too.., don't bother trying to separate them just wind it out into focus, then put a turn of electrical tape neatly around the objective over the gap that is now between the ring and the body. This will hold the lense in the right place and keep the dirt out then cover the tape with a butler creek and you'll never know it's there.

    Hope this helps
    Rhys
    "corners should be round" Theo Evo .22/.177 - Meopta 6x42, DS huntsman classic .20 vortex razor LH 3-15x42 under supervised boingrati tuning by Tony L & Tinbum, HW77 forest green - Nikon prostaff 2-7x32 plex.

  7. #7
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    Thanks Rhys. Good procedure.

  8. #8
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    Rhys,
    tried to pop the outer ring off as you say, but it wont move. Dont know if I dare to use more force. Do you really have to take the ring off? Inside I can see the threads and it looks to me as the objective simply can be turned with the proper tool. Unless the outer ring is the locking mechanisme..

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morton54 View Post
    Rhys,
    tried to pop the outer ring off as you say, but it wont move. Dont know if I dare to use more force. Do you really have to take the ring off? Inside I can see the threads and it looks to me as the objective simply can be turned with the proper tool. Unless the outer ring is the locking mechanisme..
    No.. you will damage the carrier if you do this as the outer ring (the bit on the objective side of your gold band) will be locking the threads.. there is possibly some glue or loctite holding it. See if you can get a "baby boa" one of those rubber band jar openers and then get a tea towel, pour boiling water on the tea towel wring the excess out and place it around the bell as a way of warming it up to soften any glue, then use the jar opener on it.
    Again it's all about gentle but firm pursuasion
    "corners should be round" Theo Evo .22/.177 - Meopta 6x42, DS huntsman classic .20 vortex razor LH 3-15x42 under supervised boingrati tuning by Tony L & Tinbum, HW77 forest green - Nikon prostaff 2-7x32 plex.

  10. #10
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    Hah, the leupold I finally managed to adjust had a hideously tight end cap (a lot of effort required with two rubber boas to unscrew it). Once the cap was removed, the lens carrier was much tighter (made up a tool for that, and secured in a vice).

    Swore I'd never tackle one again - although some folk's Leupolds have been reported as not so tight.

  11. #11
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    Ok, I'm beginning to understand what I'm up against. Read somewhere that a guy wrapped several rounds of tape around the objective ring to get a thick grip. That is a good idea too maybe.
    On the other hand I might just leave it. When I get the HW95K, I will just mount the scope and adjust the eyepiece focus correct (using my +1 glasses) and shoot a lot of rounds. Maybe it turns out it's not a problem. Maybe I'm overcomplicating things..
    Last edited by Morton54; 29-03-2018 at 03:58 PM.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morton54 View Post
    Ok, I'm beginning to understand what I'm up against. Read somewhere that a guy wrapped several rounds of tape around the objective ring to get a thick grip. That is a good idea too maybe.
    On the other hand I might just leave it. When I get the HW95K, I will just mount the scope and adjust the eyepiece focus correct (using my +1 glasses) and shoot a lot of rounds. Maybe it turns out it's not a problem. Maybe I'm overcomplicating things..
    It'll come but it may be a struggle.., just stay sensible and don't go mad and scratch your new scope. Have you got a baby boa?

    Like this:
    https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=ba...M6fsV1NQNyv7M:
    "corners should be round" Theo Evo .22/.177 - Meopta 6x42, DS huntsman classic .20 vortex razor LH 3-15x42 under supervised boingrati tuning by Tony L & Tinbum, HW77 forest green - Nikon prostaff 2-7x32 plex.

  13. #13
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    It'll come but it may be a struggle.., just stay sensible and don't go mad and scratch your new scope. Have you got a baby boa?
    That's a good idea. Will see if I can find one at the store on saturday.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Morton54 View Post
    That's a good idea. Will see if I can find one at the store on saturday.
    They defiantly make life easier, the other thing you can do is put some high mounts on the scope to give you something to grab hold of
    "corners should be round" Theo Evo .22/.177 - Meopta 6x42, DS huntsman classic .20 vortex razor LH 3-15x42 under supervised boingrati tuning by Tony L & Tinbum, HW77 forest green - Nikon prostaff 2-7x32 plex.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rickenbacker View Post
    Hah, the leupold I finally managed to adjust had a hideously tight end cap (a lot of effort required with two rubber boas to unscrew it). Once the cap was removed, the lens carrier was much tighter (made up a tool for that, and secured in a vice).
    Swore I'd never tackle one again - although some folk's Leupolds have been reported as not so tight.
    This is really a good forum with a lot of active members and knowhow

    Rickenbacker, did you just slowly increase the force until it came loose or did you do anything else that I should know of? I just try to gather all info there is on this.

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