Spit & polish...

[rhyslightnin]

Less is more with the lube but i finds bum slide the best .
Just a tiny bit smeared on the top and bottom of the piston .
Don't pout any lube near the seal they don't need it.
And far less than you would be tempted to put on the guides .
Just a little rub of moly on the spring .
There was a big thing about some 77 and 97 compression cylinders not being properly round i would have thought hw might have sorted that out by now it was new guns about 3or 4 years ago .

Thanks, mine is about 2-3 I think... Anyway we shall see

[robs5230]

As Nick says, I'd only polish the piston and only the rear bearing surface at that.
I use a smear of moly on the spring guide and top hat (assuming you have a delrin kit fitted) and between any spacer washers.
I'd only use a wipe on wipe off amount of bumslide on the edge of the piston seal and only then if its been sized (otherwise it wont retain any lube at all).
Bumslide on the polished surface of the rear piston bearing (I wouldnt mirror polish either) fine wet and dry for me. Again a polished surface retains little lube.
Bumslide or moly on the cocking shoe and slot in the piston (after the cylinder cocking slot has been thoroughly deburred)

As a matter of course, I now also fit a HDPE sleeve in all my pistons. It helps prevent migration of lube into the compression chamber during the firing cycle.

[rhyslightnin]

As Nick says, I'd only polish the piston and only the rear bearing surface at that.
I use a smear of moly on the spring guide and top hat (assuming you have a delrin kit fitted) and between any spacer washers.
I'd only use a wipe on wipe off amount of bumslide on the edge of the piston seal and only then if its been sized (otherwise it wont retain any lube at all).
Bumslide on the polished surface of the rear piston bearing (I wouldnt mirror polish either) fine wet and dry for me. Again a polished surface retains little lube.
Bumslide or moly on the cocking shoe and slot in the piston (after the cylinder cocking slot has been thoroughly deburred)

As a matter of course, I now also fit a HDPE sleeve in all my pistons. It helps prevent migration of lube into the compression chamber during the firing cycle.

Ok.. so like a satin or brushed stainless look, but smooth to the touch polished is what you mean?

[robs5230]

Ok.. so like a satin or brushed stainless look, but smooth to the touch polished is what you mean?

Thats just what I mean. Make sure you round off the edge at the back of the piston too. Stops it picking up on the cylinder

[robs5230]

Just to qualify Rhys, how I've described above is how I do mine. Other folk will have differing ideas.
I put a lot of time into the springers I have. I've been working on my current springer, a mk1 80, since before christmas and its only now just ready for its first outing.
One thing I also do is ensure the piston seal isn't too tight. I like some resistance but like to be able to push it down the cylinder with one finger without too much effort. As above, If i have to size a seal, I use bumslide on the seal sides but only wipe on wipe off. The serrations left by sizing retain enough lube.

[TonyL]

Some good advice up above, Rhys.

It sounds like you'll have the lubrication requirements taken care of courtesy of Nick; his BumSlide is excellent.

Make sure you have correctly fitting screwdrivers so that they don't chew the heads up. And some decent parallel punches to knock the trigger pins out. When removing the trigger unit, hold the safety catch in and then slowly let it out so that you don't lose the safety catch spring.

Ensure that you have a sturdy, well fitting bar to start the end plug off. It's a normal right hand thread. Some have been known to be very tight and your bar may need a fair few whacks with a hammer to get it started.

If you have access to a spring compressor, use it, as there can be a fair amount of preload on the standard spring. If you don't have a compressor / sash cramp, put some cloths against a solid wall, have the receiver end into the cloths. Wear a padded jacket (or wear a thick glove) and have the muzzle into your stomach so that you can bear plenty of weight against the action for when you get to the end of the threads and the end block is just about to release. I've done loads like this and it sounds much harder than it is.

As many above, I use Solvol for polishing the piston and outside of the comp tube. Fine wet and dry and then Solvol on the spring ends. On reassembly, I also moly grease the outside of the comp tube. Also, when the tube and piston are back in, and before fitting the spring, I smear some moly grease onto the inside of the main receiver, behind the comp tube. As per above, with the piston and comp tube in, some moly grease on the cocking shoe and cocking slot. And also some on the cocking lever axis pin and onto the surfaces of the "forks" on the cocking lever where it swings on the receiver.

Degrease the trigger unit, let it dry thoroughly and then lube with light machine oil / 3-in1. Oh yes, when you remove the trigger unit, make sure you don't lose the little nut that the rear guard screw goes into to, as they can fall out sometimes.

Whilst it's in bits, it won't harm to stick a new breech seal in, as they're cheap.

Oh, and I'd be leaving the "bear trap" off if it were mine, giving you the ability to de-cock the action if required.

Have fun tinkering. Take your time, stay safe and shout up for any further help.

[rancidtom]

Tony! Edit your post! It's a RIGHT hand thread on the trigger block!