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Thread: If you are easily offended don't look!

  1. #16
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    Buy good quality polishing soaps. It's pays in the end.
    Rust never sleeps !

  2. #17
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    Is it possible to hot blue a gun at home? I have seen the cold blue/plum brown used but not the hot process....I am not sure what that even is

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gamocfx View Post
    Is it possible to hot blue a gun at home? I have seen the cold blue/plum brown used but not the hot process....I am not sure what that even is
    It's not really practical unless you have loads of room for tanks. The tank temperature runs at 140 degrees. Then you need a degreasing tank and a swilling off tank.
    Fozzy

  4. #19
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    mmm I have a spare shed but will pass for now. Having said that I would still like to know the process if there is one someone on here has done

  5. #20
    ccdjg is offline Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gamocfx View Post
    Is it possible to hot blue a gun at home? I have seen the cold blue/plum brown used but not the hot process....I am not sure what that even is

    Hot bluing involves heating the polished gun in a strongly alkaline bath containing caustic soda and certain oxdising agents. It gives the deep ebony black found on modern guns, although it is possible to get a bluer black if you known a "secret" recipe.

    I have been home hot bluing airguns at sporadic intervals for almost thirty years (mainly pistols, but a few rifles), so it is perfectly feasible if you take extreme care in handlng the chemicals. After a couple of dodgy starts I have never had any problems with uneven finish, and it can be a very forgiving process compared to other types of bluing.

    The important thing for the small scale hobbyist is to have a container just big enough to take what you want to blue, and so keep the volume of bluing solution to the absolute minimum. Then when you have finished a job you can easily transfer the solution to a plastic container and store it indefinitely and safely until the next time. Degreasing is also straightforward, and again using the right shape and size solvent soaking bath in order to keep solvent volume to a minimum is the order of the day. You also need one or two small electric hotplates and a stainless steel meat thermometer. Everything you need is purchasable from fleabay.

    The hard part is getting a reliable chemical bath recipe and heating sequence, which I can help with if you are interested.

  6. #21
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    The really hard part is dealing with your first serious caustic burn and the skin grafts you’ll need.

    I still have a 1/2” deep hole in my leg after the repair work

    Be very careful.
    A man can always use more alcohol, tobacco and firearms.

  7. #22
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    Thanks for the reply and information cd but my skill levels are nowhere near what is required for this. I applaud anyone who can do this sort of thing though-it sounds like alchemy!

  8. #23
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    Some other cold blue jobs..

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]

    [IMG][/IMG]
    BE AN INDEPENDENT THINKER, DON'T FOLLOW THE CROWD

  9. #24
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    It must be so satisfying to be able to resurrect old guns.... they look amazing

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gamocfx View Post
    It must be so satisfying to be able to resurrect old guns.... they look amazing
    It is mate, but it's time consuming to do it right. And you need plenty of patience going over the same bits until you get it right and get all signs of pitting out.
    Fozzy

  11. #26
    ccdjg is offline Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
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    Quote Originally Posted by RichardH View Post
    The really hard part is dealing with your first serious caustic burn and the skin grafts you’ll need.

    I still have a 1/2” deep hole in my leg after the repair work

    Be very careful.
    Very true! I was fortunate to be a trained chemist and had been handling dangerous acids and much worse for years before I took on home bluing. So safety glasses, rubber gloves, overalls and a nearby source of water are a must.

  12. #27
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    It does not look to bad to me from the images. A bit of time and elbow grease and she'll be good. Though I have never reblued a gun fully before. Always wondered how you do it

  13. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccdjg View Post
    Hot bluing involves heating the polished gun in a strongly alkaline bath containing caustic soda and certain oxdising agents. It gives the deep ebony black found on modern guns, although it is possible to get a bluer black if you known a "secret" recipe.

    I have been home hot bluing airguns at sporadic intervals for almost thirty years (mainly pistols, but a few rifles), so it is perfectly feasible if you take extreme care in handlng the chemicals. After a couple of dodgy starts I have never had any problems with uneven finish, and it can be a very forgiving process compared to other types of bluing.

    The important thing for the small scale hobbyist is to have a container just big enough to take what you want to blue, and so keep the volume of bluing solution to the absolute minimum. Then when you have finished a job you can easily transfer the solution to a plastic container and store it indefinitely and safely until the next time. Degreasing is also straightforward, and again using the right shape and size solvent soaking bath in order to keep solvent volume to a minimum is the order of the day. You also need one or two small electric hotplates and a stainless steel meat thermometer. Everything you need is purchasable from fleabay.

    The hard part is getting a reliable chemical bath recipe and heating sequence, which I can help with if you are interested.

    I am interested as just setting up, I have everything here ready to go so any hints would be appreciated. I have been going on the blindhog method so far!

  14. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by ccdjg View Post
    Very true! I was fortunate to be a trained chemist and had been handling dangerous acids and much worse for years before I took on home bluing. So safety glasses, rubber gloves, overalls and a nearby source of water are a must.
    I just got a droplet inside a boot, at 140 degrees the temperature burns the skin and nerves away so the caustic element can burn away for in my case hours with no pain at all....

    Later I found a 1/2” deep black hole in my leg

    The burns unit apparently amputate a couple of feet a year from concrete inside people’s boots which does the same.

    Full PPE and neutralising solution handy every time....
    A man can always use more alcohol, tobacco and firearms.

  15. #30
    ccdjg is offline Airgun Alchemist, Collector and Scribe
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    Oooh, Richard that sounds very nasty. At least acids let you know when they are on your skin. I certainly wouldn't like to take on commercial scale hot alkali bluing, and anyone who does deserves every penny they can get.

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