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Thread: S410 Firing pot, which glue

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Dec 2009
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    S410 Firing pot, which glue

    Hi chaps, looking for some advise please.

    I have been servicing my s410 today and I needed to clean up the firing pot a little. The threaded part was bonded to the main body.

    My questions is what glue do I use for re assembly? Is it just superglue?

    Regards

    Duncan

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    The ones I've seen are just ordinary blue Loctite. The pot part doesn't take any strain, it just sits there and (allegedly) controls the volume of air for each shot. All the spring compression is done by the threaded base.

    Alan

  3. #3
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    Loctite is good as you can weaken it with heat (if you get the right type).

  4. #4
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    Great thanks chaps.

  5. #5
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    If you still have the rifle disassembled, see if you can make the air hole at the end of the tube smaller, I leave it up to you how you do it. I've opened it out with a 2.5mm drill and tapped it M3, then put a M3 screw in the end, with a spring washer just nipped and not tightened hard down.

    This slows the entry of air into the pot when you fire the rifle, it bleeds along the screw thread, so that it is basically the amount of air in the pot that gets used, and no more. The pot soon equalises in pressure, takes maybe a second or two, in plenty of time for your next shot. This puts a greater transient pressure on the side walls of the pot but so far none of mine have come to any harm.
    www.shebbearshooters.co.uk. Ask for Rich and try the coffee

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    There shouldn't be any need for Loctite as there is a grub screw and plastic button that locks the firing pot into position through the side of firing valve body, items 2 and 32 on the picture:

    Current airguns:- Steyr LG110: Steyr LP10: Air Arms HFT500: Weihrauch97 fully customised.

  7. #7
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    Dec 2009
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    Thanks for all the info. I'm not actually talking about fixing the firing pot into the exhaust. The bit that needs glueing is the threaded part of the firing pot back onto the main body.

    I have found out that it is actually superglue into place.

    Thank you for all the info.

    Regards

    Duncan

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2015
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rich View Post
    If you still have the rifle disassembled, see if you can make the air hole at the end of the tube smaller

    This slows the entry of air into the pot when you fire the rifle, it bleeds along the screw thread, so that it is basically the amount of air in the pot that gets used, and no more.
    That's an interesting idea - I might try that. I've never been convinced that the standard pot does anything at all, although I've never tested it. Anybody here tried just leaving the pot off completely?

    Alan

  9. #9
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    I found it helps with consistency and with reducing double bounce.

    If you have the facilities you can experiment with making pots of different lengths. My current S400 which I use for bench rest has a pot twice the standard length, and along with other mods gives me 806 fps with 7.9 grain pellets from 180 bar down to 120 bar when it starts to tail off to 790 fps by 100 bar. Shot to shot consistency is very good indeed, sometimes recording 806 for several consecutive shots.
    www.shebbearshooters.co.uk. Ask for Rich and try the coffee

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