Huntsman no 2

[barn door]

Hi every one
Has anyone replaced the seals on a huntsman mk2?
Any info would be much appreciated,best place to get
them,diagrams tec.
Cheers barn door

[Phil Russell]

Not done it but if you do a search you will find instructions .. maybe for the Harrier / X2 but I believe the procedure is the same.
Maybe even search on the Daystate Owners Forum.
Cheers, Phil

[T 20]

This may help a little :-

http://www.daystate.com/manuals/Days...n-and-LR90.pdf

[MartynB]

This may help a little :-

http://www.daystate.com/manuals/Days...n-and-LR90.pdf

Always so helpful Mick Don't suppose you of one for PH Dragon ?

[Phil Russell]

Always so helpful Mick Don't suppose you of one for PH Dragon ?

If you PM me your e mail I will send you a set of information on the Dragon, including a manual.
Cheers, Phil

[T 20]

Always so helpful Mick Don't suppose you of one for PH Dragon ?

Coughs :-

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[barn door]

Thanks guys ordered the kit,looking on the tube for a video
No luck so far this could turn into an adventure😁

[BigDuncs]

Thanks gents, I need to do mine too...

[Phil Russell]

Will this work ... strip notes:

PARKER HALE DRAGON

Resealing.

Before beginning, I must make it clear that I accept no responsibility whatsoever for any damage or other issues that afflict your Dragon as a result of you following these notes. I have written them as a result of my own actions in repairing an ailing Dragon belonging to a friend. If, however, the notes help you, I will be happy as I could find no strip information to help me whatsoever, except for replacing the pump seal. The Dragon suffered two sequential faults: to begin with it appeared to allow air to be compressed on the compression stroke but the trigger did nothing. The various airgun fora commented that it is caused by the valve stem sticking and that dripping oil through the transfer port may help cure this. On this occasion, it did not. Then it was clear that there was an air leak on closing the pump. A balloon over the muzzle indicated that air was not escaping through the transfer port and down the barrel.

Tools needed: 6mm, 5mm, 4mm, 3mm, 2.5mm allen keys. Narrow blade screwdriver. Pointed tool to help remove O rings. Reseal kit. Oil: 20/50 engine oil and a few others are recommended in the manual. I have an electronic version of the manual, available on request.

Servicing the pump:
Remove action from stock (6mm, 5mm keys).
Remove thread cap or silencer. Open cocking lever and remove the 4 screws that secure the muzzle block (2.5mm). Remove block. Ease barrel to one side and remove the countersunk screw under muzzle block (3mm) and the other socket screw (4mm) retaining the lever pivot. The barrel will flex enough. Remove the similar screws underneath the cylinder. Slide lever assembly out of main tube, making sure the axis pins retaining the levers in the pivot block remain in place.
Remove O ring on the piston head and replace with a new one.

Clean inside of compression tube. Oil compression tube with a few drops of e.g. 20/50 motor oil and add a few drops to the piston head and guide. Replacing the piston and guide is best done with the action vertical. Fit piston head into tube and lower it down the tube ... a bit fiddly as the levers are above the tube, but you will do it. When piston ring gets to the end of the slot take care that the ring does not snag on the cylinder body at the end of the slot. The tube is slightly flared at this point to help entry of the O ring.

With cocking lever at right angles to the main tube, insert piston head until the cocking lever contacts the open end of the tube. Introduce the pivot block into the open end of the tube; line up the holes and add the countersunk head screws first then the cheese head screws. Do not over-tighten as they are screwing into aluminium.

Replace muzzle block. Check that piston head is lubricated and that it moves freely in the tube. Replace stock if all is OK.

Reseal valve
You do not have to remove the pump assembly to do this. Remove stock and muzzle block (see above).

NOTE: On reflection there is no need to touch the power adjuster rod/screw. I did so as I was approaching the strip blind and the rod was clearly protruding into the valve chamber so I thought it had to be wound back. As the lower valve seals are on a plate below this chamber, it is not necessary to touch the adjuster. The trigger sear bar definitely has to be pulled back as it protrudes below the lower valve seal plate..

Remove the 6 bolts that pass through the breech block, through the cylinder and through the trigger block. They fasten into nuts on the trigger block but may still be a very firm fit in the holes even when the nuts and lock washers are removed. Do not force, go carefully and the bolts will often ‘wind’ out even though there is no thread in the breech block, the cylinder or the trigger housing block.
Lift breech and barrel off the action.
Lift trigger block away ... followed by the safety button and its spring.

On top of the action is a brass cylinder approx 10mm diameter with a thick O ring in the centre. Through the centre of the thick O ring you will see the end of the valve stem, about 3mm diameter. The brass cylinder is the top of the valve chamber and lifts off. Underneath it is another O ring. Both of these are supplied in a reseal kit.
You now need to remove the valve stem: If the stem end is flush with the top of the O ring, the valve is in the ‘set’ position. If it is below the O ring it is in the open position.
Look at the bottom of the cylinder near where the safety catch sits. The black bar, about two inches long, is the trigger sear actuating bar. With a finger or a small tool, press gently on the rearmost part of the bar while at the same time gently pressing the valve stem down from top to bottom of the action. The stem will slide smoothly down and out of the valve bottom, pointed end first. You may well hear a click as the trigger sear flips closed as the valve stem passes it.

You are now almost ready to get at the lower part of the valve chamber in order to replace 2 more seals. From the top of the action, look down into the chamber. Note that the chamber is dark coloured but has a brass coloured central base section. You will see a rod protruding into the chamber a few mm from the top edge. This is the power adjuster. Turn the action over and look up into the chamber again. You will see another rod extending into the void, but this time it enters the space below the bottom of the valve chamber. Both these rods need to be moved in order to allow the bottom of the valve chamber to be serviced. (See note at start regarding power adjuster).

Start with the power adjuster rod, action right way up. Make a mental note how far the rod protrudes into the valve chamber (approx 1mm on this rifle). Note a silicon plug in the end of the action (maybe coloured red). Tease the plug out. Insert allen key and locate it in the grub screw a little way into the action. Remove grub screw, counting how many turns it takes to come free. Now insert a narrow blade screwdriver into the hole and locate the screwdriver on the adjuster rod. Turn anticlockwise, counting revolutions as you go... watch the adjuster rod wind back out of the chamber and judge how many turns you need to get it to clear the chamber body. Write down how many turns you used!
Now for the trigger bar: Have the action upside down. Look at the black horizontal trigger bar on the base of the action. It has 2 grub screws on it, one near the safety tube, the other near the end block. Remove the grub screw near the safety tube, counting how many turns it takes. Write this down. Note another silicon plug in the end of the action, this one perfectly central. This is the trigger sear rod adjuster. Remove silicon plug and the exposed grub screw (count turns again). Remove spring behind grub screw. With a thin blade screwdriver, locate the slot on the end of the adjuster rod and unto it a few turns ... count the turns. You can see the adjuster rod to the left of the black bar. Gently push the rod to the end of the action as you press on the right hand side of the trigger bar. It should begin to pass under the trigger bar.
Gently twiddle the safety tube to see if it will come away from the cylinder. It should do so easily without force. If it does not, undo the sear adjuster rod another turn or two until the tube comes away.
Go to the top of the action and gently push against the brass base of the valve stem guide clearly visible through the valve body. It should move down and out of the tube. Here are the last two O rings on the valve. Remove O rings and fit new ones.

Now time to re-assemble.
Replace the valve bottom plate, O rings upwards, and push into place with the safety catch cylinder.
Reset the trigger adjustment rod: turn it back in the same number of turns as you unwound it. I am told that if you have forgotten this you can set it, with the valve stem in place, by screwing all the way in and then backing off 2 full turns. Add spring and grub screw ... same turns as you undid it.
Replace the grub screw you removed from the black trigger bar. (same turn number).
You can test this action by adding the valve stem from the top of the action and pushing it down. It will click into place at the ‘cocked’ position and only move down again if you depress the right hand edge of the black trigger bar. If you can push it straight through the valve body without touching the trigger bar ... start again.
If you wound back the power adjuster: With valve stem removed, wind in the power adjuster to its original setting (you did note that didn’t you?). If you have forgotten, start with about 1mm of rod protruding into the chamber. Add the grub screw to lock the power adjuster.

Add valve stem from top, remembering to push the trigger bar to get it to set on the sear. Add the larger diameter O ring into the top of the valve chamber and replace the valve chamber top complete with its thick O ring in the centre.

Add the safety catch and spring and replace the trigger block underneath the action. Replace breech and barrel assembly and locate the 6 bolts. Tighten them in sequence; I did diagonally at the breech end first and then a rear bolt. I am told the front bolts are tightened to 3Nm (2.213 ft lbs), the rear ones to 2Nm (1.475 ft lbs).
IMPORTANT: These 6 bolts hold the 3 parts together, breech, cylinder and trigger block. They ensure the parts are held together sufficiently that the valve chamber O rings give an air tight seal.

Replace the muzzle block and stock.

My first dry fire was ok but a bit muted. But no sound of hissing air. Hooray. Went to chrono ... 283fps with Superdome .22 (14.5gn). Impending despondency. Next shot about 360, then 480 then 550 then 582, 582, 583, 584, 590, 583 ... stayed as such. Yippee.... 10.9 – 11.2 ft lbs.
AA Field next ... typical 570, 570, 570, 563, 567 ... av. 11.5

I have read that power can be low for a few shots straight after a service so maybe this supports that.

So I think it is OK. Yippee.
Typical cost: about £16 for a seal set. I did not replace the pellet probe O rings, the O ring that seals the power adjuster, nor the O ring on the end of the barrel under the muzzle block.

Hopefully this may help ...
Cheers, Phil

[MartynB]

Coughs :-

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Thanks Mick, you da man !