RE-lubing a Springer

[whipsaw]

Just after a few tips regarding lubing back up after a strip and de-grease. So, what type of lube, on which parts and importantly, how much? I don't want to over do it and risk dieseling or be too sparing and risk accelerated wear. I've also heard that grease on the spring can damp down vibration. What's everyone's opinion?

Cheers folks

[robs5230]

Firstly be meticulous in removing all traces of lube from compression cylinder, piston, piston seal, spring and guides and tophat if fitted.
Also get any lube away from the outer face of the transfer port.

If delrin guide and tophat fitted, lightly lube both and between any slip washers with moly.
If the piston seal has been sized (has rough sides) wipe some high moly paste around sides and wipe off. MAKE SURE NO LUBE GETS ON FRONT OF SEAL.

Some high moly paste can be applied to rear piston bearing but not too much.
Moly in the cocking slot and on the cocking shoe / foot.
Thats it.

If no delrin kit you may need to lightly lube the spring itself with some moly to calm the twang down. Too much grease on spring just throws lube every where and robs power. Better to fit a delrin kit. TBT or similar

If a break barrel, a bit of moly on the detent should ease and quieten the lockup. Dont get any near the transfer port.

[robs5230]

If its a HW or AA springer, a thorough degrease of the trigger unit and a an application of light oil (sewing machine oil, fishing reel oil) should make the trigger nicer

[whipsaw]

Thanks Robs, yes they are HWs. I assume the trigger has be stripped down to be properly de-greased - it's something I've never done before, but could probably manage...

[cooper_dan]

I use a very sticky motorcyle chain lube on the spring itself. The tiniest smear of finish line 'wet' bicycle chain lube around the edge of the seal. And the same stuff on the trigger moving parts.

Different ways to skin a cat etc. The main thing is to avoid getting anything in front of the piston/on the front face of the seal

[robs5230]

Thanks Robs, yes they are HWs. I assume the trigger has be stripped down to be properly de-greased - it's something I've never done before, but could probably manage...

No mate. Something like thinners or acetone. Dump the whole unit in it and keep giving it a move around. Just watch the crap come off. Any stuck on bits use a toothbrush, pipecleaner, cotton bud.
If you feel brave strip it. Some good You tube vids.
They can get very gunked up and old lube goes hard.

[TonyL]

Firstly be meticulous in removing all traces of lube from compression cylinder, piston, piston seal, spring and guides and tophat if fitted.
Also get any lube away from the outer face of the transfer port.

If delrin guide and tophat fitted, lightly lube both and between any slip washers with moly.
If the piston seal has been sized (has rough sides) wipe some high moly paste around sides and wipe off. MAKE SURE NO LUBE GETS ON FRONT OF SEAL.

Some high moly paste can be applied to rear piston bearing but not too much.
Moly in the cocking slot and on the cocking shoe / foot.
Thats it.

If no delrin kit you may need to lightly lube the spring itself with some moly to calm the twang down. Too much grease on spring just throws lube every where and robs power. Better to fit a delrin kit. TBT or similar

If a break barrel, a bit of moly on the detent should ease and quieten the lockup. Dont get any near the transfer port.

Plus a little on the breech block sides / jaws and shims. And if an underlever, the lever "fork" surfaces and pin.

[PhatMan]

whipsaw,

I use the below procedure for triggers :

Spray liberally with aerosol brake de-greaser (I use Comma brand), leave to soak, then spray again with the 'straw' attached - this will blow all the grease & crap out.

Leave an hour or so to dry, or use hair-dryer to hasten drying.

Warm trigger up with hair-dryer, then spray liberally with mixture of 75% oil (I use Breakfree CLP) / 25 % penetrating oil (I use Kroil or 3in1 High Performance Penetrant Spray)

The 'holiday' spray bottles from the pharmacy section in Sainsburys work extremely well for this.

Let trigger drain, and leave overnight to dry.

This will leave a suitable amount of oil on the trigger parts.

Apply a small wipe of an extreme pressure grease ( I use Molyslip AS60) to the sear surfaces, and the job is a good 'un.

Have fun & a good weekend

Best regards

Russ

[whipsaw]

Thanks Russ

[dan00001]

A small amount of red rubber grease is great for the spring, I use a tiny amount even with properly fitting guides.

[whipsaw]

Never heard of red rubber grease before, I'll check it out, thanks Dan.

[PhatMan]

whipsaw,

Red rubber grease, if applied too thickly can sap power badly (as can any grease).

I no longer use grease on my springs, as I found that grease has a tendency to fling off, and migrate over time - that is why some chappies use sticky chain greases on their springs.

I give my springs three (3) to four (4) light coats of a dry moly spray (I use Ambersil).

The dry moly film cannot be thrown off the springs, and seems to dampen spring vibration well without sapping power.

I burnish the spring guide with 75% moly or WS₂ powder/25 % graphite, and then dust it and the guide section of the spring with the lube powder, and the job is done

Have fun & a good Sunday

Best regards

Russ

[whipsaw]

Thanks for all the tips Russ, very good to know