Dodgy Diana User
PS - I note with amusement and approval that no-one has suggested that the Sterling/Park bolt action is a great u/l design.
Because it isn't. Though the Park version has some attractions and merit. The Sterling is like an airgun SA80. Interesting idea, badly executed.
Registered User
With regards to the best breech seal arrangement, for me it has to be the conical seal a la FWB 300. I think in modern terms the BAM underlevers might use this too (please correct me if I'm wrong)
As much as it pains me to speak badly of my TX200, the double o-ring setup is woeful. Fine for the HC that I only use occasionally, but on my full length which I use 3 or 4 times a week they were constantly giving issues
Registered User
The Whiscombe side lever set up is very good, no bear trap issues at all, direct loading into the barrel, loads of space for someone with big fingers.
Here is what it looks like:
https://goo.gl/images/eeRDVs
This is also favoured on the PCPs...
Best set up there is?
Registered ̶D̶i̶a̶n̶a̶ User
Does your full length TX have a tight cocking shoe?Originally Posted by cooper_dan
The seal's last longer with the correct amount of play in the shoe
Registered User
Opposite problem. Too much play. With 2 fresh o-rings it needs 2 shims to seal properly and bring the power up. After a few months (I would guess 3-4k pellets) power starts dropping off again.Does your full length TX have a tight cocking shoe?
The seal's last longer with the correct amount of play in the shoe
Changed to a one piece seal like the weihrauch now. Hopefully it does better
Registered ̶D̶i̶a̶n̶a̶ User
I would have thought that AA machining would be uniform, perhaps its not, your HW seal may have sorted the problem but if you do go back to the factory seals it is easy to check if its right, first check with some feeler gages that the gap on the shoe is 25 thou/0.6mm then smear some grease on the breech close the lever and open it and look to see if you have a even seal mark ( remember the mark will get wider when the gun is fired as the tube moves forward squashing the seal more) this is quite a reliable way to check if the breech seal is leaking and the shoe gap is the right size
Banned
I solved my o-ring wear by making sure there's not too much crush. With the factory shoe, there is usually never too much crush, so I get an over sized tool steel shoe from Maccari. When the lever gets near the detent you will feel the seals start to touch and squish as you pop into the detent. I just file a tiny bit at a time until I feel the seals touch the breech just as the arm touches the detent ball. My seals last for a long time and I'm confident they're sealing with single digit velocity spreads. While not perfect, the o-ring set up does the job, in most cases. A friend has a TX that takes 2 full seals and one sanded down to half. I found this by watching him shoot and seeing the slop. Strange part is the gun was and still is very accurate.
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