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Thread: . 177 zero range

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Cambridge UK
    Posts
    7,070
    .177 running at around 11.2. I use a 25yd zero with x7 mag. This gives me only hold over to worry about. At 8 yds about 1.5 dots, at 10yds about 0.8 dots reducing to 0 at 25yds. Going out to 45 yds it is virtually flat to about 30. 45 yds is about 1 dot.

    Sorry not to be precise but there are slight differences due to scope height.
    Cheers, Phil

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Stevenage, Herts
    Posts
    950
    When zeroing at 37 yards shooting Jsb heavies in .177, it's 1 mildot at 47 yards at X10.
    Danny
    My collection = Ratworks BSA Scorpion T-10 .177, HW100KS .177 (tweaked by me), PP750, Crosman 1322 and 1377

  3. #18
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Manchester
    Posts
    481
    I get my zero to suit the ranges I'm shooting at, and the reticle I'm using, to give me a long PBR and easy to remember holdover distances on the reticle substensions. I don't really care where my zero is, just as long as I've easy to remember PBR and holdover distances (I also avoid having any significant holdunder).
    In .177 my PBR is 8 to 32 meters (16mm kill zone or +/- 8mm from the pellets trajectory) and 35, 40, 45 and 50 meters holdover on each half Mil dot (zero = 27ish m).

    Scope Height - I only found out recently that in practice or on Chairgun that the scope mounts height has very little effect on my trajectory.
    The original mistake I was making was measuring the scope height at the objective lens and not at the muzzle as recommended by Chairgun - https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com...-scope-height/
    Previous to finding this out I had always suffered poor cheekweld with the rifles cheek piece because I was convinced I needed medium height mounts to get the trajectory I needed! However I started measuring my scope height at the muzzle as recommended by Chairgun and found that going from medium mounts to low mounts (a height difference of 6mm) in reality only changed the scope height by less than 1mm when measured at the muzzle (it is very important to 'zero' before measuring the scope height at the muzzle when changing scope mounts height).
    So by measuring scope height at the muzzle my shooting range results are now more compatible with Chairgun predictions, and by realising I can use low scope mounts with my same holdover trajectory, I get the added bonuses of a stable cheekweld and longer PBR.

  4. #19
    secretagentmole Guest
    Quote Originally Posted by Gunfun View Post
    I get my zero to suit the ranges I'm shooting at, and the reticle I'm using, to give me a long PBR and easy to remember holdover distances on the reticle substensions. I don't really care where my zero is, just as long as I've easy to remember PBR and holdover distances (I also avoid having any significant holdunder).
    In .177 my PBR is 8 to 32 meters (16mm kill zone or +/- 8mm from the pellets trajectory) and 35, 40, 45 and 50 meters holdover on each half Mil dot (zero = 27ish m).

    Scope Height - I only found out recently that in practice or on Chairgun that the scope mounts height has very little effect on my trajectory.
    The original mistake I was making was measuring the scope height at the objective lens and not at the muzzle as recommended by Chairgun - https://airgunaccuracy.wordpress.com...-scope-height/
    Previous to finding this out I had always suffered poor cheekweld with the rifles cheek piece because I was convinced I needed medium height mounts to get the trajectory I needed! However I started measuring my scope height at the muzzle as recommended by Chairgun and found that going from medium mounts to low mounts (a height difference of 6mm) in reality only changed the scope height by less than 1mm when measured at the muzzle (it is very important to 'zero' before measuring the scope height at the muzzle when changing scope mounts height).
    So by measuring scope height at the muzzle my shooting range results are now more compatible with Chairgun predictions, and by realising I can use low scope mounts with my same holdover trajectory, I get the added bonuses of a stable cheekweld and longer PBR.
    Set at 30m I get 9.4 to 34.8m PBR....

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Sep 2004
    Location
    Barnsley
    Posts
    9,848
    25 yds, as that is the max distance I can get in my back garden. No need to go to the club to zero. Then just use mil dots for other distances.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    aylesbury, bucks
    Posts
    122
    Quote Originally Posted by NeilMac View Post
    It depends on the height of the scope mounts as ideally you want the zero range to be the top of the velocity arc.

    Try 25 to 30 yards to start with and if you are just using the reticule to compensate for different ranges (as opposed to dailing) then for all ranges up to and beyond you zero range, the pellet should impact below the horizontal cross hair.
    tend to agree with this but it's a minority view, most people zero at greater distance (35 yards was common the last time I was in a club)

    the beauty of using the top of the arc it is not necessary to get the distance exactly right when pacing out the target - it doesn't affect the zero much.
    From chairgun the apex was around 23 yards for .177 and 18 yards for .22, so just setting the target at 20 paces or so gets you very close in either calibre.

    Somehow it seems more intuitive to only have to worry about holdover, and not holdunder, but each to his own

    BB

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    manchester
    Posts
    7,674
    Quote Originally Posted by secretagentmole View Post
    Set at 30m I get 9.4 to 34.8m PBR....
    This all depends on the size of your kill zone. If you accept a 30 mm kill zone you will have a longer range over which no correction would be required but specify a 10mm kill zone and you will soon have to apply holdover and holdunder all over the place. I set my kill zone to +-6.5mm which in effect is a 1/2" kill zone and a secondary zero point of 25 yards/25 meters which suits both target and possible assualt on quarry.

    A.G

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Chelmsford
    Posts
    2,051
    Hi AJ
    All sounds very technical and Im sure usefull, but is all that just to help remember holdovers ? As you cant effect your pellets flight so to me its just learn those distances and trajectories with any zero, I zero at 40 because near all my rabbiting is 30/50 yds and thats just crosshair over or under, then indoors for mrRatty its crosshair at 15.



    Chris
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  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    manchester
    Posts
    7,674
    Quote Originally Posted by 32:1 View Post
    Hi AJ
    All sounds very technical and Im sure usefull, but is all that just to help remember holdovers ? As you cant effect your pellets flight so to me its just learn those distances and trajectories with any zero, I zero at 40 because near all my rabbiting is 30/50 yds and thats just crosshair over or under, then indoors for mrRatty its crosshair at 15.



    Chris
    Hi Chris,

    Yes absolutely. The trajectory of the pellet/gun is a constant, within a tolerance, so when you are adjusting the turrets you are only moving the reticule to another point to intersect the trajectory as you wished. You could set your zero at 2 mildots above the intersection of the crosshairs if you wished to give yourself more holdover aim points, useful for sub 12 .22 guns at longer ranges as not all scopes have extended mildot reticule but you need to remember that your zero is 2 mildots above the cross hair.

    A.G

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