Selenium Dioxide
Use as you would cold blue
Or if you only want a little Birchwood Casey Brass Black which is probably the above in a tiny bottle
Hi , any body know best way - blacking / blueing onto brass? also any body know the correct length of hammer spring? kind regards Al
PS. it's a 'C' series born in 1982.
Last edited by cringe; 01-07-2018 at 01:30 PM. Reason: edit
Selenium Dioxide
Use as you would cold blue
Or if you only want a little Birchwood Casey Brass Black which is probably the above in a tiny bottle
A man can always use more alcohol, tobacco and firearms.
If it's the "2 shot " 12 fpe model like my '79 one was then it's got a cut down standard spring that is 70mm long..7.6 OD..5.4 ID.
Last edited by bezzer; 01-07-2018 at 09:43 PM.
I use either later c9a ones or crosman 2200/Benjamin as392 ones and make an internal spring adjuster to take up the slack
https://i.imgur.com/JeUaCrg.jpg
as for reblacking I've tried the selenium antiqueing fluids and found them un satisfactory like the brass black
I've been recommended to try boiling in laundry powder but I may get some of mine nickel plated
Last edited by --ped--; 01-07-2018 at 09:42 PM. Reason: adding pic link
Thank you, I am still curious as to what the original factory finish is? I don't think it was stove enamelled as that would be close to melting the soft solder which holds the whole thing together! is it anodised? can I reproduce this finish? I shall experiment with some scrap brass in sodium carbonate as suggested.
Re: hammer spring, this one has been cut down to 68 mm [can see grinding marks] and then a weaker spring 20 mm long added,
I am assuming this was done to lower power limit? the weaker spring takes up any slack/sloppiness in the bolt action.
thanks for advice, best regards Al.
The original finish was called Ebonal C, which I believe was a factory term. The barrel is made of red brass & pump tube brass (dunno what grade?), the barreled assembly was dipped or plated with copper to facilitate the ebonal finish. I once took mine (1966 C rotary safety) to a well respected professional gunsmith with a lifetime in the trade, after sometime his recommendation was "spray it". I have tried all makes of cold blue, sadly the construction obviously does not allow immersion bluing. I would guess Cerakote might be a viable option, but any treatment which requires heat could well bugger the barrel (solder) joint with the pump tube as well as the valve soldering, so black chrome is probably out sadly.
If I ever get time I would electrically plate the action/barrel after blocking the pump tube & barrel, then use proprietary bluing/blacking solution's
HTH
H
PS: I believe Sheridan/Benjamin discontinued the "blue" finish sometime during the late 70's or early 80's in favor of a sprayed or dipped paint type finish.