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Thread: Help with Stock Prep Help Please

  1. #1
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    Help with Stock Prep Help Please

    This is the first time I have ever looked to sand down and re finish a stock and I am not sure on what is best at this point. The previous owner of the gun must have dipped the stock in a vat of varnish judging by the quantity of the stuff that I have removed, this same person also spray painted all the metal work with gloss paint but that is a job for another day. Anyway, I have removed most of the varnish and am left with some stubborn spots on the gun where I assume the varnish has just soaked in a little deeper, the stained spots can be seen on the pic's. Is there any advice anyone can give which would make removal of these stained patches easier or is it just a case of good old fashioned elbow grease and lots of sanding required.
    http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/ge...tml?sort=3&o=2
    http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/ge...tml?sort=3&o=5
    Last edited by Jungle George; 19-06-2018 at 09:12 AM.

  2. #2
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    I had exactly the same issue end of last year. I ended up having to scrape it off. Prior to that I even used an industrial paint/varnish stripper with no luck, it was patchy, just like yours. One thing I did learn from posting my problems with this stock on here was not to leave the wood too smooth, a slightly rougher finish is best. Good luck.
    Remember, it is the strongest character that God gives the most challenges.

  3. #3
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    Stock Work

    Thanks for the quick reply, I suspected it might be a case of stripping back to unstained wood. Was hoping I could cheat somehow.

  4. #4
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    Tips:

    I'd sand it with the buttpad on, otherwise you might be disappointed if the pad is too big when the stock's all finished.

    I'd always use a sanding block wherever possible (hard or flexible, depending on which bit of the stock), otherwise the surface will end up wavey.

    I'd mask up the chequering to avoid sanding off the points.

    As the stock is beech (HW77?), I'd consider finishing it with coloured lacquer ... for one thing, you'll probably never get all of those dark patches out, and dark-ish lacquer will cover them up. Saving you a lot of sanding work... and it'll look much more like a factory finish.


  5. #5
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    You have to remember that wood is a porous material and the end grain is open and more porous than the rest and therefore will absorb more stain/varnish resulting in those areas appearing darker, the stain etc will penetrate deeper and therefore will be more difficult to remove.
    The secret is to seal the end grain before applying finishes if you want a 'uniform' look, otherwise, you are just going to have to accept it!

    ASM
    I am a Man of La Northumberlandia, a true Knight and spend my days on my Quest (my duty nay privilege!) and fighting dragons and unbeatable foe, to right the unrightable wrongs, to bear with unbearable sorrow and dreaming my impossible dreams.

  6. #6
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    Thanks again, I have some very dark danish oil left over from another project and I am hoping this might hide the stains where I cant get them out. Will have to look into lacquer as this is not something I had considered. Have been using both hard and flexible sanding blocks for the majority of the stock and have just purchased some sanding drums for my drill, am hoping these might do a better job around the grip where the blocks are a bit too large. The gun is a Webley Eclipse.

  7. #7
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    not unusual for beech

    I'd go easy on the sanding and refinish as it is providing all the varnish is removed. A stock that is a uniform colour all over can look a bit bland. I sometimes use a mixture of van Dyke crystals (made from crushed walnut shells mixed with water) to colour and then oil over the top with either Danish or tru-oil.

  8. #8
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    That sounds like a better idea, much more sanding and I might not have a stock left.

    Thanks for all the help, this is a learning process for me and I think I have a plan now.

  9. #9
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    If it is beech, which I think it is, I'd go with Mr RBacker's suggestion, and get some nice dark tinted varnish or lacquer onto it. In my opinion, stained or dyed beech stocks can look amatuer. Stain and oil is for walnut rather than beech. The grain is simply not tight enough and when you stain it, you get big light patches.
    Donald

  10. #10
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    You try some oxalic acid (decking cleaner) from the popular auction site. Give the wood a good wipe over with meths first then apply the mixture to the dark bits. Rinse with plenty of water afterwards.
    Rust never sleeps !

  11. #11
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    Forget trying to get every little bit of old stain out, this adds to character once redone. And forget your Danish oil finishers.
    As Rickenbacker says, keep the butt pad on as it will stay the same size as the stock.
    Once you have sanded it smooth, (the smoother the better,) you can use a small brass brush to finish getting any varnish out of the chequering. This helps you keep the peaks on the chequering and gets the varnish out.
    Once you have done all this, get some colron walnut stain and add a very small amount of a red wood stain and mix together. Get a rag and wipe the mixed stain over the stock. It'll soak it in straight away. Give it 2 coats if you like.
    Once you have done this and it's dried, generally within an hour, you can then give it a gentle rub over with a scotchbrite pad to smooth it off.
    Then, mask the chequering off. Then get some car lacquer spray and give it a few coatings all over. Before the last spray, take the masking tape off and give it one coat over the chequering. This will seal it but not fill the chequering in.
    Leave it to harden off for 12 hours then give it a rub over with scotchbrite before polishing up.
    This is how me and my mate have done them for years with excellent results. They aren't as difficult as you think and this way is better than any oil.
    Fozzy
    Last edited by fozzy45; 19-06-2018 at 10:04 PM.

  12. #12
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    Thanks for all the help guys, will be calling in at b & q to get some lacquer and one or two other bits. Been over the stock last night with some fine sand paper and think she is now ready for the next stage.
    The Danish oil is staying on the shelf!

  13. #13
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    Let us know what lacquer you use and maybe a pic of the end result.
    Remember, it is the strongest character that God gives the most challenges.

  14. #14
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    Have done three coats with Colron Deep Mahogony, see photo's. Just trying to decide on how to protect it, I have some Rust-Oleum
    Clear Spray (semi gloss) that I was thinking of using. Was wandering whether a few coats of oil would give a better finish.
    http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/ge...tml?sort=3&o=0
    http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/ge...tml?sort=3&o=1
    http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/ge...tml?sort=3&o=2
    http://s1079.photobucket.com/user/ge...tml?sort=3&o=3
    Last edited by Jungle George; 22-06-2018 at 04:39 PM.

  15. #15
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    Don't know but i think oil might darken it. I would give the clear lacquer a go.
    Remember, it is the strongest character that God gives the most challenges.

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